DavesZ#3

Dan,

I realized that the RAP signal (delayed power) wouldn't really help because it goes off once the driver's door is opened. That would put me back in the same situation of slamming the door closed and the sensor would already be armed.

KPierson

iTrader: (2)

Dave and Dan,

It really sounds like there is something else going on here. When you slam the door the shocksensor should register shock for no more then 2 seconds. If you are slamming your door and hitting the lock button within 2 seconds you are much faster then me! I usually slam the door, and as I walk away lock it up. I can't think of any signals that would give you the delay you are looking for, without adding more parts.

The direct shock sensor add on has its advantages, but it definately has its disadvantages too!

DavesZ#3

Kevin,

I'm pretty sure that is the problem because I close the door with the remote in my hand and easily try to lock it within the 2 second period.

As I mentioned in my PM to you, I was having all kinds of problem with the auto lock not working sometimes. In the week since I've disconnected the shock sensor, I haven't had it fail once. This weekend will be the big test as I'm going off and will be in and out of the car a bunch.

Dave

KPierson

iTrader: (2)

It wouldn't be too hard to add a time delay to the shock sensor, but it would involve adding more hardware.

This may be a long shot....

But I wonder what would happen if you connected the (-) of the shock sensor to the door lock actuator wire coming from the BCM (purple wire). This wire rests at ground, and goes to 12vdc when you lock the car. I'm thinking that when you lock the car it will kill power to the shock sensor, possibly creating the delay you are looking for??? Just an idea, it may be worth a shot!

KPierson

iTrader: (2)

Dave,

Also, I think I figured out your auto locking problem. If you had the shock sensor hooked up to your door pin (like you did at first) the shock sensor would be constantly supplying a (-) output when you first start the car. This would cause our module to NOT lock, but still auto unlock. It would be best to completely isolate the shock senor from the auto lock module.

DavesZ#3

Nope, I never had the shock sensor on the Door Pin. The BoostedConcepts install instructions warned against using the door pin because of the current drain. I've been hooked up on the truck pin from the start. Plus, I didn't install the shock sensor until recently, after we got the initial DLM problems solved and it was fundamentally working.

I had disconnected the shock sensor last weekend and hoped that it would have solved the problems with the DLM not working on occasion. It seemed to do fine during the week but this weekend I had it "not work" about 25% of the time. It's really weird, for example I was sitting in the Z and went to start the car and the doors didn't lock. I turned it off, waited a few seconds then restarted it and it locked fine. It must be either a timing or maybe voltage level problem. Rather than discuss it all here, PM me on the KPTech board and we can continue it there...