Lowering Springs
#16
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This may be a dumb question...but...that has never stopped me from asking before:
Do you get the SPC put on at the time of install....After the springs settle....just before the alignment...or after the alignment so you know how out of spec you are?
Gracias
Do you get the SPC put on at the time of install....After the springs settle....just before the alignment...or after the alignment so you know how out of spec you are?
Gracias
#17
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im in for the group buy for the basics..
i get bored easily so i would go with c/o
i have had then on a couple cars and its fun to adjust them, but its still a PITA with alignments and stuff, most people just set them and keep them at a certain height
i get bored easily so i would go with c/o
i have had then on a couple cars and its fun to adjust them, but its still a PITA with alignments and stuff, most people just set them and keep them at a certain height
#18
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Originally Posted by neffster
Basics are WAY TOO STIFF for a daily driver. Spring rates are through the roof!!!
I've had Tein Basics on my car over a year now (I drive 12-13K per year combo city/hwy) and I'm satisfied with the ride, especially in return for the added performance. The only time the car is too stiff (bouncy) is when going over very uneven or broken up pavement or occassionally over concrete sections of bridges. Other than this, the ride is fine.
If you want a set it and forget it suspension, I would say the Basics should be one of your choices. I also explored coilovers, but the stiffness is greater than the Basics and the cost was beyond what I was willing to spend, especially since I had to budget for SPC kit and front A arms.
Regardless of what you choose, make sure you replace both springs and shocks, not just one or the other.
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Why cant i just use the stock shocks for a while and then replace them when they go bad. I don't see the need to replace them at the same time. Also....the RSR give me real close spring rates to my 2005 Sport suspension. I don't think the shocks HAVE to be replaced right away. I could be wrong. Off to research...............
#20
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
im in for the group buy for the basics..
i get bored easily so i would go with c/o
i have had then on a couple cars and its fun to adjust them, but its still a PITA with alignments and stuff, most people just set them and keep them at a certain height
i get bored easily so i would go with c/o
i have had then on a couple cars and its fun to adjust them, but its still a PITA with alignments and stuff, most people just set them and keep them at a certain height
Will let you guys know about a possible GB in a few weeks. I have a contact name at IAP Direct and AFAIK they're located in Orlando, so that would be a great idea. As far as the Basics being too stiff, I came from a Caddy maxima and I still think stock is a little too soft so the Basics should be fine by me.
#21
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Originally Posted by g8tor20
Why cant i just use the stock shocks for a while and then replace them when they go bad. I don't see the need to replace them at the same time. Also....the RSR give me real close spring rates to my 2005 Sport suspension. I don't think the shocks HAVE to be replaced right away. I could be wrong. Off to research...............
On other hand:
1) You are lowering the vehicle which is going to compress and adversley effect the stock shocks.
2) A matched set of shocks would yield better handling performance so you can fully enjoy the springs.
3) Whether you DIY or pay a shop, why duplicate the effort by putting the right shocks on later rather than now?
Also, be ready to budget for SPC and a front a-arm just in case.
#23
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Originally Posted by Finiti35
When it comes to ride height, there is only one setting: the lowest
Will let you guys know about a possible GB in a few weeks. I have a contact name at IAP Direct and AFAIK they're located in Orlando, so that would be a great idea. As far as the Basics being too stiff, I came from a Caddy maxima and I still think stock is a little too soft so the Basics should be fine by me.
Will let you guys know about a possible GB in a few weeks. I have a contact name at IAP Direct and AFAIK they're located in Orlando, so that would be a great idea. As far as the Basics being too stiff, I came from a Caddy maxima and I still think stock is a little too soft so the Basics should be fine by me.
#25
FYI, here's a little something I found by doing a simple search...
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
As a reminder, the whole idea running a Z Tein H-tech spring on the G35 is that it wraps up a mild drop that should allow you to avoid expensive aftermarket camber correction and equally important for those that want to maintain how the car's balance, the Z H-tech's do NOT have the weaker then oem rear spring rates that both G35 Tein lowering springs do. This will matter to those that want to maintain as much of the car's handling mannerism. Weaker rear spring rates move roll stiffness to the front of the car, the car already understeer's, that will add more.
If you find that the Z H-tech's don't lower the rear of the car as much as you like, their is a way to change that, vs going to a different spring with less performance to offer. http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44778
A even better spring then the Z H-tech's for those wanting performance first and formost, would be the RSR down spring ment for the Z. BUT, at around a 1.1" drop. The odd's of needing whole car camber correction increases.
As we look to aftermarket springs, especially one's that increase spring stiffness over oem rates, we owe it to ourself's to make certain that we are open to the idea that maybe, just maybe the oem shocks aren't quite going to cut it. I think a number of owner's exist that simply don't have the experience or knowledge to sense that the oem shocks might not be providing the best control for their ride, not a put down, would just like to see owners get the most out of their cars. Frankly, every G35 even with oem springs would be improved with aftermarket shocks like Koni's or Tokico D-specs.
Tein S-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 386/402
Stiffer then oem by F+23% R+16%
Transfers +7% roll stiffness to front
Lowers G35 coupe 1.2"/1.1"
Lowers G35 sedan 1.7"/1.6"
Tein H-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 358/375
Stiffer then oem by F+14% R+11%
Transfers +3% roll stiffness to front
Lower's G35 coupe by .8"/.7"
Lower's G35 sedan by 1.3"/1.2"
Tein H-tech G35 coupe & sedan(fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 324/260
Stiffer/softer then oem by F+ 5% R-22%
Transfers +27% roll stiffness to front
Tein S-tech G35 coupe & sedan (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 358/274
Stiffer/softer then oem by R+14% R-18%
Transfers +32% roll stiffness to front
RSR 350Z springs
Spring rates in lbs 345/417
Stiffer then oem by F+10% R+22%
Transfers +12% roll stiffness to rear
Lower's G35 coupe by 1.1"/1,1"
Lower's G35 sedan by 1.6"/1.6"
If you find that the Z H-tech's don't lower the rear of the car as much as you like, their is a way to change that, vs going to a different spring with less performance to offer. http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44778
A even better spring then the Z H-tech's for those wanting performance first and formost, would be the RSR down spring ment for the Z. BUT, at around a 1.1" drop. The odd's of needing whole car camber correction increases.
As we look to aftermarket springs, especially one's that increase spring stiffness over oem rates, we owe it to ourself's to make certain that we are open to the idea that maybe, just maybe the oem shocks aren't quite going to cut it. I think a number of owner's exist that simply don't have the experience or knowledge to sense that the oem shocks might not be providing the best control for their ride, not a put down, would just like to see owners get the most out of their cars. Frankly, every G35 even with oem springs would be improved with aftermarket shocks like Koni's or Tokico D-specs.
Tein S-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 386/402
Stiffer then oem by F+23% R+16%
Transfers +7% roll stiffness to front
Lowers G35 coupe 1.2"/1.1"
Lowers G35 sedan 1.7"/1.6"
Tein H-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 358/375
Stiffer then oem by F+14% R+11%
Transfers +3% roll stiffness to front
Lower's G35 coupe by .8"/.7"
Lower's G35 sedan by 1.3"/1.2"
Tein H-tech G35 coupe & sedan(fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 324/260
Stiffer/softer then oem by F+ 5% R-22%
Transfers +27% roll stiffness to front
Tein S-tech G35 coupe & sedan (fronts are progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in lbs 358/274
Stiffer/softer then oem by R+14% R-18%
Transfers +32% roll stiffness to front
RSR 350Z springs
Spring rates in lbs 345/417
Stiffer then oem by F+10% R+22%
Transfers +12% roll stiffness to rear
Lower's G35 coupe by 1.1"/1,1"
Lower's G35 sedan by 1.6"/1.6"
#26
Here's the info on the TEIN BASICS...
The two are very close in ride height which is why Jason is lowering his car. Why pay the extra money and why even go with BASICS? For that matter, why pay the extra money and buy the Tokico D-Specs right away? Just give your stock shocks a few years and IF they go out on you switch then.
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
Tein Tell's us that the highest you can set the Basics in the front on a coupe is a .7" drop, I find it hard to believe that at that drop that you do not have some preload to keep the springs in place. In the rear, the springs are not on the coilover bodies, so you cannot effect preload when you raise or lower the rears.
Bigger question I have, what is the point of 05 coupe rear springs in your mind? I know how they differ, but I'm not sure what your thinking.
Since the Basic's offer a much higher spring rate increase the car will have a lot more roll resistance. But, D-specs are double adjustable and allow you to tune in way's that the non dampner adjustable basics can't do.
Oem coupe spring rate specs if delivered with oem 17's or 18's
314/342
Tein Basic (twin tube construction, non adjustable dampners )
Spring rates 504/504
Stiffer then oem by F+61% R+43%
Transfers +18% roll stiffness to front
Side Note: Excellent value at it’s price point
2005 coupe oem sport suspension rear springs if installed on a coupe with the regular suspension
314/427
Stiffer then oem by F+0% R+24%
Transfers +24% roll stiffness to the rear
These two setups are what I would recommend if you do not go with the Basics
Tein H-tech 350z (All linear springs) =G35 coupe drop .8"/.7"
Spring rates in lbs 358/375
Stiffer by F+14% R+10%
Transfers +4% roll stiffness to front
Tokico D-specs
oem 2003/2004 350Z springs =G35 coupe drop .5"/.5"
Spirng rate 314/342
Tokico D-specs
(oem 2004.5/2005 350Z springs have 314/427 spring rates)
I would recommend Hotchkis springs, but they will drop the coupe more then your asking for.
Bigger question I have, what is the point of 05 coupe rear springs in your mind? I know how they differ, but I'm not sure what your thinking.
Since the Basic's offer a much higher spring rate increase the car will have a lot more roll resistance. But, D-specs are double adjustable and allow you to tune in way's that the non dampner adjustable basics can't do.
Oem coupe spring rate specs if delivered with oem 17's or 18's
314/342
Tein Basic (twin tube construction, non adjustable dampners )
Spring rates 504/504
Stiffer then oem by F+61% R+43%
Transfers +18% roll stiffness to front
Side Note: Excellent value at it’s price point
2005 coupe oem sport suspension rear springs if installed on a coupe with the regular suspension
314/427
Stiffer then oem by F+0% R+24%
Transfers +24% roll stiffness to the rear
These two setups are what I would recommend if you do not go with the Basics
Tein H-tech 350z (All linear springs) =G35 coupe drop .8"/.7"
Spring rates in lbs 358/375
Stiffer by F+14% R+10%
Transfers +4% roll stiffness to front
Tokico D-specs
oem 2003/2004 350Z springs =G35 coupe drop .5"/.5"
Spirng rate 314/342
Tokico D-specs
(oem 2004.5/2005 350Z springs have 314/427 spring rates)
I would recommend Hotchkis springs, but they will drop the coupe more then your asking for.
Last edited by neffster; 09-26-2005 at 06:32 PM.
#27
Remember, transfering roll stiffness DRASTICALLY effects understeer or oversteer.
Most of us normal drivers (i.e. non-race car drivers) need understeer or we'd kill ourselves. If you start increasing springs rates, you'll affect understeer/oversteer. If you start changing roll rates, you'll affect understeer/oversteer. If you do both, WATCH OUT! Many people go out and then apply sway bars and get those to TRY to get their car back to stock handling characteristics but WATCH OUT for snap oversteer!!! You'll be driving along into a corner, accelerating just fine and all of a sudden you'll lose 100% control of your car without any warning.
If you like the way your G rides in the stock form, look for something that is rather close to the stock spring rates and toll stiffness. DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOUR STOCK SHOCKS TO LAST FOR QUITE AWHILE!!!
Most of us normal drivers (i.e. non-race car drivers) need understeer or we'd kill ourselves. If you start increasing springs rates, you'll affect understeer/oversteer. If you start changing roll rates, you'll affect understeer/oversteer. If you do both, WATCH OUT! Many people go out and then apply sway bars and get those to TRY to get their car back to stock handling characteristics but WATCH OUT for snap oversteer!!! You'll be driving along into a corner, accelerating just fine and all of a sudden you'll lose 100% control of your car without any warning.
If you like the way your G rides in the stock form, look for something that is rather close to the stock spring rates and toll stiffness. DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOUR STOCK SHOCKS TO LAST FOR QUITE AWHILE!!!
#28
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Originally Posted by g8tor20
This may be a dumb question...but...that has never stopped me from asking before:
Do you get the SPC put on at the time of install....After the springs settle....just before the alignment...or after the alignment so you know how out of spec you are?
Gracias
Do you get the SPC put on at the time of install....After the springs settle....just before the alignment...or after the alignment so you know how out of spec you are?
Gracias
#29
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. After you figure out your Parameters: your desired drop, your desired oversteer/understeer, the desired spring rates, etc... don't forget to factor in your NEW WHEELS.
The new wheels will have different widths, a different staggar, different rolling diameter, and different offsets. All of these characters will also effect your above parameters.
If you aren't a suspension designer and you don't work on or drive for a race team, may I suggest staying as close to stock numbers as possible?
The new wheels will have different widths, a different staggar, different rolling diameter, and different offsets. All of these characters will also effect your above parameters.
If you aren't a suspension designer and you don't work on or drive for a race team, may I suggest staying as close to stock numbers as possible?