Fuel Return kit, help and interest....
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Fuel Return kit, help and interest....
So for the past few weeks, I've been trying to part together a kit similar to AAM's basic kit, I think I'm getting together what will be a nice cheap way to get a return system on our cars, I've yet to take pics of what I've put together, but its very much like aam's system in the pic. I actually never knew AAM had this thing going until I saw it in Winston's car....
The system runs the stock rails in parallel and one ss line back to the tank and has the 1:1 fpr..... just wanted to post to see if anyone else wants one, or has any thoughts, suggestions.... and though its won't flow quite as great as an AAM or CJM system because of the rails, but it will still be sufficient up to 500 as I hope and will find out, and the price surely beats paying nearly a grand for the other two. I'll have a diy up in a few weeks once I've worked out any kinks....
The system runs the stock rails in parallel and one ss line back to the tank and has the 1:1 fpr..... just wanted to post to see if anyone else wants one, or has any thoughts, suggestions.... and though its won't flow quite as great as an AAM or CJM system because of the rails, but it will still be sufficient up to 500 as I hope and will find out, and the price surely beats paying nearly a grand for the other two. I'll have a diy up in a few weeks once I've worked out any kinks....
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The real problem that I've been having is the fuel rails, so if anyone has a hook up, let me know, AAM sells their's retail for 500 bucks, CJM similar price... too expensive just for two pieces of hollowed out metal imo. I've found a few sources, but still too much and not needed for my application.
So far parts alone will cost nearly $300 if you buy everything I've gotten at retail, and yes this will definately work a sedan.... coupe... fx... altima... lol anything that uses that same fitting our stock rails do...
So far parts alone will cost nearly $300 if you buy everything I've gotten at retail, and yes this will definately work a sedan.... coupe... fx... altima... lol anything that uses that same fitting our stock rails do...
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please do this and keep track of your total costs. i know you think you can save money but to do it correctly, you wont.
CJ motorsports is FAR superior to AAM crap.
-8 lines are expensive, you will have 100 dollars in the return line alone. then you have fittings, each fitting will cost you between 8 and 25 dollars, the fuel tap is going to cost you 50-80, the fuel pressure regulator will cost you at least a 100 dollars. you will have to get the right fittings in the fuel bucket.
there are ways of cutting corners safely and i try to help everyone out with whatever i know, this to me isnt a good one.
you can make the AAM basic kit work but you will have to upgrade later for sure for anything over 450 like it states on its website.
CJ motorsports is FAR superior to AAM crap.
-8 lines are expensive, you will have 100 dollars in the return line alone. then you have fittings, each fitting will cost you between 8 and 25 dollars, the fuel tap is going to cost you 50-80, the fuel pressure regulator will cost you at least a 100 dollars. you will have to get the right fittings in the fuel bucket.
there are ways of cutting corners safely and i try to help everyone out with whatever i know, this to me isnt a good one.
you can make the AAM basic kit work but you will have to upgrade later for sure for anything over 450 like it states on its website.
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I'd like to experiment first though, if everything fails CJM it is!
Agreed that the AAM kit stg 1 kit is total crap for what you pay (if it was less than half the price then I would change judgement). Hopefully my few hook ups for lines and fittings follows through, the only piece that I can't find anywhere are the stock adapters which only a few places make and charge something like 80 bucks each. So far its 300 + whatever I need to pay for the two stock rail adapters... I'm going to see if my machine shop can do something about that. The regulator bypass part is something I'm putting together from my good ole friend Ace hardware .
This is a good pic of what needs to be done on the inside of the tank....
I'm going to try and see what happens with 650cc injectors and my walboro 255, with this setup and see where it begins to fail. At the very least if this doesn't work well for my power goals, I don't see why it wouldn't work for a stock block sub 400 whp car....
Agreed that the AAM kit stg 1 kit is total crap for what you pay (if it was less than half the price then I would change judgement). Hopefully my few hook ups for lines and fittings follows through, the only piece that I can't find anywhere are the stock adapters which only a few places make and charge something like 80 bucks each. So far its 300 + whatever I need to pay for the two stock rail adapters... I'm going to see if my machine shop can do something about that. The regulator bypass part is something I'm putting together from my good ole friend Ace hardware .
This is a good pic of what needs to be done on the inside of the tank....
I'm going to try and see what happens with 650cc injectors and my walboro 255, with this setup and see where it begins to fail. At the very least if this doesn't work well for my power goals, I don't see why it wouldn't work for a stock block sub 400 whp car....
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2slo2bfurious, sorry for asking this question in your thread but did you notice the Walboro 255 pump to be alot louder than the stock one
I am going to be installing TTranks stillen supercharger and have a 255 pump I am thinkiing about putting in if I put a stge III pulley on
thanks
tony
I am going to be installing TTranks stillen supercharger and have a 255 pump I am thinkiing about putting in if I put a stge III pulley on
thanks
tony
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the whole deal with a return fuel system is so you can alter and control the fuel pressure. the stock fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank. when you create a fuel return system you delete the stock FPR and add a boost dependant FPR to the front of the car, this allows you to set it so the 1:1 ratio will raise the fuel pressure UP according to what boost you are at. so say you have it set at 50 at idle, when you get to 10 pounds of boost, it will consistently raise your fuel pressure to say 60 psi. this will let your injectors work a lot easier cause the higher the psi , the less time the injectors have to open.
the reason we just dont have crazy high pressure all the time is becuase the car is hard to start if the pressure is too high.
the reason we just dont have crazy high pressure all the time is becuase the car is hard to start if the pressure is too high.
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the 1:1 rise rate of the FPR offsets the head pressure in the intake manifold , so that you really get 50 psi.
At psi, you'd have 10 psi of pressure going against the the tip of the injector. having a rise rate FPR would inscrease your fuel pressure to 60 psi to offset the 10- psi of head pressure....makes sense.
At psi, you'd have 10 psi of pressure going against the the tip of the injector. having a rise rate FPR would inscrease your fuel pressure to 60 psi to offset the 10- psi of head pressure....makes sense.