Help boosted power goal and supporting mods
07-13-2024, 02:15 PM
#1
boosted power goal and supporting mods
I've been looking into twin turboing my G37 sedan, and my tuner actually sells a kit. He can customize what is included based on my needs, and include everything needed.
The kit is using the R35 turbos modified to work with the G37.
I asked him about a ballpark price and what supporting mods to go for, since the kit on the site is listed as if it's CARB certified, and he told me he can talk for hours about options and I should decide if I want to go through with it first. The problem is, the cost is part of the equation.
He mentioned the other day 450 wheel torque as what he considers safe for the stock 7AT. I've always heard 400 was the safe limit. It could just have to do with how he does the tune, or the nature of these turbos.. since usually people turboing a G are putting big singles. I would think that the gradual boost from two small turbos is not as harsh, but I don't know.
So now the question I've struggled with for days is what kind of power numbers I should go for? The numbers seem arbitrary because they are more a measure of the capabilities put into data that can be compared -- rather than what we actually want out of the car. I daily this car but work from home, so mostly I use it on cruises on backroads. I would like to take it to a drag strip again. I would love to do under 10s 1/4 mi but I don't know if I can do that with such low torque numbers. Then there's the concern about tires. I don't really want to put on massive tires for racing or anything. I want to keep the car looking pretty nice. I was planning on 19x9.5 245/40/19 squared, using Conti ECS02 tires.
It would be great to beat FBO scat packs, too. There's a ton of these out here. In general it's pretty much nothing but modded V8s where I live.
I'm not concerned about the car being "too powerful to drive", especially since with my tuner I can get basically anything I want -- like a slider/toggle to adjust the power regardless of which map I'm in.
The other question is the supporting mods. I already have a flexfuel tune and have an AEM 340 pump and 650cc injectors but I'm going to definitely need 1000 or 1350 or something along the lines of that cc for what I'm going for. I don't know if I need a larger pump. The kit the tuner sells promotes an oil scavenge system, z1 urethane engine mounts, aam stage 1 intercooler, omni 4 bar map sensor, z1 25 row thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler kit, z1 oil pan spacer. But what else?
The thing I don't want to do is a built engine. I'm not ready to spend all that yet or make that much of a change to the vehicle yet.
I'm just overall overwhelmed with the amount of options and how to determine what the goals are in terms of numbers. Even though the number is not the important thing, it is still good to have a goal, and then achieve that goal. Plus, I'm a bit OCD lol.
The kit is using the R35 turbos modified to work with the G37.
I asked him about a ballpark price and what supporting mods to go for, since the kit on the site is listed as if it's CARB certified, and he told me he can talk for hours about options and I should decide if I want to go through with it first. The problem is, the cost is part of the equation.
He mentioned the other day 450 wheel torque as what he considers safe for the stock 7AT. I've always heard 400 was the safe limit. It could just have to do with how he does the tune, or the nature of these turbos.. since usually people turboing a G are putting big singles. I would think that the gradual boost from two small turbos is not as harsh, but I don't know.
So now the question I've struggled with for days is what kind of power numbers I should go for? The numbers seem arbitrary because they are more a measure of the capabilities put into data that can be compared -- rather than what we actually want out of the car. I daily this car but work from home, so mostly I use it on cruises on backroads. I would like to take it to a drag strip again. I would love to do under 10s 1/4 mi but I don't know if I can do that with such low torque numbers. Then there's the concern about tires. I don't really want to put on massive tires for racing or anything. I want to keep the car looking pretty nice. I was planning on 19x9.5 245/40/19 squared, using Conti ECS02 tires.
It would be great to beat FBO scat packs, too. There's a ton of these out here. In general it's pretty much nothing but modded V8s where I live.
I'm not concerned about the car being "too powerful to drive", especially since with my tuner I can get basically anything I want -- like a slider/toggle to adjust the power regardless of which map I'm in.
The other question is the supporting mods. I already have a flexfuel tune and have an AEM 340 pump and 650cc injectors but I'm going to definitely need 1000 or 1350 or something along the lines of that cc for what I'm going for. I don't know if I need a larger pump. The kit the tuner sells promotes an oil scavenge system, z1 urethane engine mounts, aam stage 1 intercooler, omni 4 bar map sensor, z1 25 row thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler kit, z1 oil pan spacer. But what else?
The thing I don't want to do is a built engine. I'm not ready to spend all that yet or make that much of a change to the vehicle yet.
I'm just overall overwhelmed with the amount of options and how to determine what the goals are in terms of numbers. Even though the number is not the important thing, it is still good to have a goal, and then achieve that goal. Plus, I'm a bit OCD lol.
Last edited by AnotherVQ; 07-13-2024 at 03:24 PM.
07-15-2024, 02:14 PM
#2
Moderador
I've been looking into twin turboing my G37 sedan, and my tuner actually sells a kit. He can customize what is included based on my needs, and include everything needed.
The kit is using the R35 turbos modified to work with the G37.
I asked him about a ballpark price and what supporting mods to go for, since the kit on the site is listed as if it's CARB certified, and he told me he can talk for hours about options and I should decide if I want to go through with it first. The problem is, the cost is part of the equation.
He mentioned the other day 450 wheel torque as what he considers safe for the stock 7AT. I've always heard 400 was the safe limit. It could just have to do with how he does the tune, or the nature of these turbos.. since usually people turboing a G are putting big singles. I would think that the gradual boost from two small turbos is not as harsh, but I don't know.
So now the question I've struggled with for days is what kind of power numbers I should go for? The numbers seem arbitrary because they are more a measure of the capabilities put into data that can be compared -- rather than what we actually want out of the car. I daily this car but work from home, so mostly I use it on cruises on backroads. I would like to take it to a drag strip again. I would love to do under 10s 1/4 mi but I don't know if I can do that with such low torque numbers. Then there's the concern about tires. I don't really want to put on massive tires for racing or anything. I want to keep the car looking pretty nice. I was planning on 19x9.5 245/40/19 squared, using Conti ECS02 tires.
It would be great to beat FBO scat packs, too. There's a ton of these out here. In general it's pretty much nothing but modded V8s where I live.
I'm not concerned about the car being "too powerful to drive", especially since with my tuner I can get basically anything I want -- like a slider/toggle to adjust the power regardless of which map I'm in.
The other question is the supporting mods. I already have a flexfuel tune and have an AEM 340 pump and 650cc injectors but I'm going to definitely need 1000 or 1350 or something along the lines of that cc for what I'm going for. I don't know if I need a larger pump. The kit the tuner sells promotes an oil scavenge system, z1 urethane engine mounts, aam stage 1 intercooler, omni 4 bar map sensor, z1 25 row thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler kit, z1 oil pan spacer. But what else?
The thing I don't want to do is a built engine. I'm not ready to spend all that yet or make that much of a change to the vehicle yet.
I'm just overall overwhelmed with the amount of options and how to determine what the goals are in terms of numbers. Even though the number is not the important thing, it is still good to have a goal, and then achieve that goal. Plus, I'm a bit OCD lol.
The kit is using the R35 turbos modified to work with the G37.
I asked him about a ballpark price and what supporting mods to go for, since the kit on the site is listed as if it's CARB certified, and he told me he can talk for hours about options and I should decide if I want to go through with it first. The problem is, the cost is part of the equation.
He mentioned the other day 450 wheel torque as what he considers safe for the stock 7AT. I've always heard 400 was the safe limit. It could just have to do with how he does the tune, or the nature of these turbos.. since usually people turboing a G are putting big singles. I would think that the gradual boost from two small turbos is not as harsh, but I don't know.
So now the question I've struggled with for days is what kind of power numbers I should go for? The numbers seem arbitrary because they are more a measure of the capabilities put into data that can be compared -- rather than what we actually want out of the car. I daily this car but work from home, so mostly I use it on cruises on backroads. I would like to take it to a drag strip again. I would love to do under 10s 1/4 mi but I don't know if I can do that with such low torque numbers. Then there's the concern about tires. I don't really want to put on massive tires for racing or anything. I want to keep the car looking pretty nice. I was planning on 19x9.5 245/40/19 squared, using Conti ECS02 tires.
It would be great to beat FBO scat packs, too. There's a ton of these out here. In general it's pretty much nothing but modded V8s where I live.
I'm not concerned about the car being "too powerful to drive", especially since with my tuner I can get basically anything I want -- like a slider/toggle to adjust the power regardless of which map I'm in.
The other question is the supporting mods. I already have a flexfuel tune and have an AEM 340 pump and 650cc injectors but I'm going to definitely need 1000 or 1350 or something along the lines of that cc for what I'm going for. I don't know if I need a larger pump. The kit the tuner sells promotes an oil scavenge system, z1 urethane engine mounts, aam stage 1 intercooler, omni 4 bar map sensor, z1 25 row thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler kit, z1 oil pan spacer. But what else?
The thing I don't want to do is a built engine. I'm not ready to spend all that yet or make that much of a change to the vehicle yet.
I'm just overall overwhelmed with the amount of options and how to determine what the goals are in terms of numbers. Even though the number is not the important thing, it is still good to have a goal, and then achieve that goal. Plus, I'm a bit OCD lol.
You're going to kill those tires FYI, start thinking of a wider tire that fits your wheels
You can keep that AEM 340 until you max it out which could be closer to 400whp
As for injectors, trust what Eugene recommends, ask him about ball type injectors and if you were to select an injector that would not max out before the turbos do which one.
Oil management is fine.
Extras? start looking for maybe some intakes for those turbos however be aware that it might or might not work. But definitely some sort of tubing that can feed the turbos, they need all the help they can get. This goes for down pipes as well, You may want to check if he can find you a kit with some aftermarket downpipes or see if some from r35 even fit the V36 engine bay.
Having a way to read the factory AFR via ecutek app or similar will save your engine.
Think of ways of venting your hood, this will slowdown heatsoaking as well as the life of some of the rubber components of the engine.
Now would be the time to start eliminating annoying brackets and or some coolant hoses to clear some space for the turbos.
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AnotherVQ (07-15-2024)
07-15-2024, 02:25 PM
#3
With Eugene's kit and solid tuning you'll be fine on the VHR for a long time. The 450tq from these kits is not the same as 450tq from other kits. When I say this I mean the TQ produced will be down low from a fast spool and not like typical kits where it will start to generate this torque closer to VVEL engagement.
You're going to kill those tires FYI, start thinking of a wider tire that fits your wheels
You can keep that AEM 340 until you max it out which could be closer to 400whp
As for injectors, trust what Eugene recommends, ask him about ball type injectors and if you were to select an injector that would not max out before the turbos do which one.
Oil management is fine.
Extras? start looking for maybe some intakes for those turbos however be aware that it might or might not work. But definitely some sort of tubing that can feed the turbos, they need all the help they can get. This goes for down pipes as well, You may want to check if he can find you a kit with some aftermarket downpipes or see if some from r35 even fit the V36 engine bay.
Having a way to read the factory AFR via ecutek app or similar will save your engine.
Think of ways of venting your hood, this will slowdown heatsoaking as well as the life of some of the rubber components of the engine.
Now would be the time to start eliminating annoying brackets and or some coolant hoses to clear some space for the turbos.
You're going to kill those tires FYI, start thinking of a wider tire that fits your wheels
You can keep that AEM 340 until you max it out which could be closer to 400whp
As for injectors, trust what Eugene recommends, ask him about ball type injectors and if you were to select an injector that would not max out before the turbos do which one.
Oil management is fine.
Extras? start looking for maybe some intakes for those turbos however be aware that it might or might not work. But definitely some sort of tubing that can feed the turbos, they need all the help they can get. This goes for down pipes as well, You may want to check if he can find you a kit with some aftermarket downpipes or see if some from r35 even fit the V36 engine bay.
Having a way to read the factory AFR via ecutek app or similar will save your engine.
Think of ways of venting your hood, this will slowdown heatsoaking as well as the life of some of the rubber components of the engine.
Now would be the time to start eliminating annoying brackets and or some coolant hoses to clear some space for the turbos.
It's pretty hard to fit wider wheels on the sport sedan, And I'm still trying to go with an overall look that I want. The wheels that are wider either don't fit because of clearance or they don't look right to me or they weigh a ton or cost $5,000 🤣. I can try to look into wheels again. But those tires I mentioned were on 9.5" wheels.
I asked about the injectors and he said:
"i would suppply the injectors for you. so you just need to let me know your power goals and fuel type and we will use the appropriate injector for the application."
The fuel pump will definitely need to be replaced then because I don't consider 400 whp to be enough of a difference to justify the cost of the turbos.
I'm pretty sure the kit already comes with intakes, with a filter sitting in front of the wheel. Also the kit is supposed to come with everything as far as I know and as far as I've spoken with him. I asked him about exhaust recommendations and he said he has none. The kit is apparently fully self-contained so it has all of the plumbing needed for installation, and I can do whatever I want with the exhaust. So I was thinking about keeping the resonated test pipes and just getting a titanium resonated y pipe and titanium a single exit.
I don't know what things to remove so I'm not going to bother with that yet. But, I did plan on getting a vented hood. I was going to get the turbos taken care of first and the exhaust, and then finish doing all the visual stuff. Because I wanted to wrap the car as soon as I get the hood.
Also one of the overall questions is how to determine what answer to give him for a "power number". I don't know how to determine this.
Last edited by AnotherVQ; 07-15-2024 at 02:44 PM. Reason: edit not working
07-16-2024, 08:14 AM
#4
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
My advice is to go conservative so that you can future plan for a follow-up project that takes it to another level, if you find that's something you still want.
07-16-2024, 11:49 AM
#6
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Everything is expensive.
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rotarymike (07-16-2024)
07-16-2024, 12:12 PM
#7
Figured that response would come. I meant relative to "doing it right the first time". Because this involves things like buying new fuel pump, injectors, etc.
I'm also unsure about what tire I'd need based on the power. I don't want to run race tires and all that. I just want it faster and maybe to beat fbo v8s in races.
I'm also unsure about what tire I'd need based on the power. I don't want to run race tires and all that. I just want it faster and maybe to beat fbo v8s in races.
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07-16-2024, 05:48 PM
#8
Registered Member
I'd start by looking at power to weight numbers and then thi k about what being faster means to you.
then do the math for your power goals.
a quick search says
Infiniti G37 Sedan
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.090 hp/ib
WEIGHT TO POWER 11.06 1b/hp
And
Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.110 hp/lib
WEIGHT TO POWER 9.07 ib/hp
that's stock not FBO
So tweak your math acordingly
Of course the torque curves are gonna be different, along with a few other differences lol
but its a starting point at least
You wanna beat them in a roll race?
At the drag strip?
Light to light?
Tires are the only way to get the power to the ground.
And the kind of race will determine your suspension requirements.
drag racersplay with weight distribution as much as they play with tire pressure.
Daily driver who wants to beat everything? Maybe nitrous and good tires lol.
then do the math for your power goals.
a quick search says
Infiniti G37 Sedan
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.090 hp/ib
WEIGHT TO POWER 11.06 1b/hp
And
Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.110 hp/lib
WEIGHT TO POWER 9.07 ib/hp
that's stock not FBO
So tweak your math acordingly
Of course the torque curves are gonna be different, along with a few other differences lol
but its a starting point at least
You wanna beat them in a roll race?
At the drag strip?
Light to light?
Tires are the only way to get the power to the ground.
And the kind of race will determine your suspension requirements.
drag racersplay with weight distribution as much as they play with tire pressure.
Daily driver who wants to beat everything? Maybe nitrous and good tires lol.
The following users liked this post:
AnotherVQ (07-16-2024)
07-16-2024, 05:55 PM
#9
I'd start by looking at power to weight numbers and then thi k about what being faster means to you.
then do the math for your power goals.
a quick search says
Infiniti G37 Sedan
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.090 hp/ib
WEIGHT TO POWER 11.06 1b/hp
And
Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.110 hp/lib
WEIGHT TO POWER 9.07 ib/hp
that's stock not FBO
So tweak your math acordingly
Of course the torque curves are gonna be different, along with a few other differences lol
but its a starting point at least
You wanna beat them in a roll race?
At the drag strip?
Light to light?
Tires are the only way to get the power to the ground.
And the kind of race will determine your suspension requirements.
drag racersplay with weight distribution as much as they play with tire pressure.
Daily driver who wants to beat everything? Maybe nitrous and good tires lol.
then do the math for your power goals.
a quick search says
Infiniti G37 Sedan
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.090 hp/ib
WEIGHT TO POWER 11.06 1b/hp
And
Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack
POWER TO WEIGHT 0.110 hp/lib
WEIGHT TO POWER 9.07 ib/hp
that's stock not FBO
So tweak your math acordingly
Of course the torque curves are gonna be different, along with a few other differences lol
but its a starting point at least
You wanna beat them in a roll race?
At the drag strip?
Light to light?
Tires are the only way to get the power to the ground.
And the kind of race will determine your suspension requirements.
drag racersplay with weight distribution as much as they play with tire pressure.
Daily driver who wants to beat everything? Maybe nitrous and good tires lol.
I'd rather have too much than not enough, but don't want to sacrifice the low look/fitment or have to get special tires or cut up the car to fit wider wheels. I also don't want to blow the engine or any other expensive components.
So far from everything I've looked into it seems safe to run 600-650 WHP and 450 WTQ on this specific twin turbo kit without touching the engine (aside from injectors). I can already run E85. I just don't know about tire requirements for something like this.
I was thinking last night of changing my plans to go with 245/40/19 to 285/35/19 on 19x9.5 square.
07-20-2024, 12:55 AM
#10
I've been thinking for the past couple days that my HP goal may be 550 WHP. I'm not 100% sure I can do 450 or less WTQ with 550 WHP, though. I would think this is about a "medium" level of performance for this kit, since it should be able to do around 700 wheel.
07-22-2024, 06:55 PM
#11
> 245/40/19 to 285/35/19 on 19x9.5 square.
As for tire, you need more than this. I'm on 450 WHP and a tad over 400 WTQ on 305/30R19 rears and I can easily still light it up in 2nd on stoplight battles. Traction control still flashes for me on 4th gear highway pulls so yea... This is all with a OS Giken LSD, tein coils, eibach sways so not sure what more I can even do on the traction front.
As for tire, you need more than this. I'm on 450 WHP and a tad over 400 WTQ on 305/30R19 rears and I can easily still light it up in 2nd on stoplight battles. Traction control still flashes for me on 4th gear highway pulls so yea... This is all with a OS Giken LSD, tein coils, eibach sways so not sure what more I can even do on the traction front.
07-22-2024, 06:59 PM
#12
> 245/40/19 to 285/35/19 on 19x9.5 square.
As for tire, you need more than this. I'm on 450 WHP and a tad over 400 WTQ on 305/30R19 rears and I can easily still light it up in 2nd on stoplight battles. Traction control still flashes for me on 4th gear highway pulls so yea... This is all with a OS Giken LSD, tein coils, eibach sways so not sure what more I can even do on the traction front.
As for tire, you need more than this. I'm on 450 WHP and a tad over 400 WTQ on 305/30R19 rears and I can easily still light it up in 2nd on stoplight battles. Traction control still flashes for me on 4th gear highway pulls so yea... This is all with a OS Giken LSD, tein coils, eibach sways so not sure what more I can even do on the traction front.
The thing is there could be other reasons you're losing traction. I think this is more pointed me to the answer of "there's nothing you can really do about it except getting dedicated tires for this kind of thing". Maybe it's always just going to be an issue and you have to modulate the throttle more carefully. This was always something in my mind but I wasn't sure if just getting "the right tires" would be able to remove that concern.
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