BillyTheMan

I decided to make a new topic for just this issue because I have no idea what to do. Mentioned in another thread i did the vr30 transmission swap. After the swap and everything is back together the transmission works fine but i have the p0335 code now. Did not have it before the swap, had the bell housing professionally machined by godzillaraceworks, original sensor was destroyed during initial transmission reinstall so i replaced with autozone replacement, didn't work so i got oem nissan, no change. Car is exactly the same if sensor is plugged in or not, have FI flex plate again no issues with it before the swap. Had a buddy check the electric connections with a multimeter and everything was ok there. Seems like the car is acting as if there's not even a sensor there at all, my buddy had a bad sensor on his 08 g37 and it ran rough but was still functioning fine. I'm going to go over the flex plate tomorrow to see if any of the teeth are damaged, didn't see anything obvious but I'll check. No shop here will touch it because of the transmission swap so I'm kinda on my own here, any suggestions would be appreciated.

BillyTheMan

Got a decent picture of the sensor bolted up. Looks like its sitting crooked but why?

SonicVQ

The crank position sensor is a HALL effect type sensor. This uses a magnetic field to determine when the flex plate tooth is under the end of the sensor and changes the output voltage.
If the tooth passes to the side of the sensor, it may not detect it.

Typically the sensor is positioned so the tooth passes in the middle of the sensor AND the space between the tooth and the end of sensor needs to be the same as stock.
I don't know what that spacing is and there is no spec in the FSM.

I know it isn't in an easy to get to area, but if you measure the voltage on pins 2 (sensor ground) and 3 (signal output)
(pin 1 is on the left and is a red wire)

The output voltage will be either almost 0v or around 4v.

Turn on the ignition with the engine not running.
Measure the sensor voltage and *very slowly* turn the crankshaft clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn
If the sensor is working, the meter will switch between the above voltages.
You can also check for 5v between pins 1 (5v) and 2 (sensor ground)

1/2 a turn of the crank should give you about 15 pulses.
(There are 30 teeth in groups of 10, with 2 missing teeth between each group)

If the sensor doesn't switch between hi and low, it is bad, misaligned, or spaced too far apart from the tooth.
With the sensor removed from the engine and plugged in, you can test it by having the ignition on/engine off and pass a screwdriver or magnet to the bottom of the sensor.

If the sensor does switch, then check for the signal at the ECU on pin 37 (signal) and 47 (ground)

Good luck!

BillyTheMan

Assuming the sensor isn't lined up properly how would i fix that? I thought about putting a little washer in between the sensor and engine where the bolt goes but i figured that would just make it sit higher.

PhatherPhish

The bolt holding it down doesn’t look tightened all the way in the photo. About a mm gap between the washer and the sensor. Also, from what I remember when I did my swap there’s two ‘shelves’ on the bell housing and I believe the lip on the sensor needs to be seated on the inside shelf of the bell housing.

BillyTheMan

There is 2 layers to the bell housing. Bolt felt tight, didn't want to break the plastic on the sensor either. Did you install the sensor after the transmission or was it already installed when you put the transmission in?

PhatherPhish

I left it installed. I also cut out my own area on the bell housing with a dremel and cutting wheel so I had extra clearance when I came time to bolt it up. Also, after taking a look under my car today, there is a metal bracket for the wiring harness that is on the same bolt as the sensor, so that is probably where the extra space is coming from.

edit: no sure if the bracket is supposed to go on that bolt but that’s where I put mine. Oops. No issues with it in that spot though.

BillyTheMan

I'm gonna try backing the transmission out maybe an inch and then putting the sensor on and bolting the transmission back up.

BillyTheMan

Looks like it's sitting even now.

BillyTheMan

Well that did the trick. No more code and starts and runs good.

Boosted37

I'm having the same issue. LQJ Conversion flexplate. Car won't start with sensor plugged in. Will start unplugged. Pulled the trabs and cleaned up the pilot bushing shaft on converter. Still no luck. Sensor is good.

BULL

So for further context,
P0335 causes will be:
Misaligned sensor
Damaged/Faulty wiring
Incorrect sensor (cam sensor can fit and is almost the same)
Incorrectly placed aftermarket flywheel/flex plate ( some of these do not have a guide hole to properly line them up)
Bad sensor (sensors are usually the last thing to crap out)

BillyTheMan

Mine was a misaligned sensor. Took about 30 seconds to turn over and start. Had to back the transmission off, install the sensor and then rebolt the transmission back in. Kind of a hassle but it fixed it. After all that i can drop my transmission in an hour with all that practice.

Boosted37

Yeah. The flexplate is lined up. It's funny. With it plugged up and the bolt loose the car started sometimes. But died. We tested 2 known to be good sensors. Idk we are at a loss. This flexplate is the LQJ and it has the pin.

Boosted37

we will try that. We pulled it to clean bushing area of converter but took the sensor out and put in after stabbing. Will try that.