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My buddy stopped by after work and checked the continuity with a multimeter and everything on the switch is as it should be. I ordered a new sensor directly from Infiniti just in case. No idea what else it could be. None of the shops around here will touch it because of the swapped transmission.
Just throwing this out there but are you 100% confident there are no issues with the flywheel (trigger)? These flex plates are known to crack which can cause erratic CKP behaviours.
If the CKP sensor and harness check out then the issue points to the other side of the equation. Again, just thinking out loud...
I have a fast intentions flex plate. I was pretty surprised at how flimsy the oem one was when i swapped it. Felt like stamped sheet metal. Oem on my charger was similar to fast intentions but slightly thinner.
We also tried having me hold the sensor in place while he started the car in case the screw was pulling it to the side, unplugged it and there was no change in anything.
My original query remains: are you confident the trigger wheel is aligned properly with the sensor bung? There may be a few mm's variation between the OEM and the FI flex plates that is causing all this hassle. After all, the CKP is only a simple hall effect sensor. Again, there are two sides to this equation and if one checks good then it has to be the other. And, as the FI flex plate is the only variable in this otherwise straight-forward, proven working project. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Again, just thinking out loud...
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 04-23-2024 at 10:45 AM.
So i figured out the issue with my crank sensor, went to go test it out and noticed a few things. 1. Transmission disengages sometimes coming to a stop, feels like it goes into neutral and then grabs again a second or 2 later, no issue with this once moving good. 2. Bad vibration up past 90 mph, about 110 its bad enough you can't make out anything in the rear view mirror because its vibrating so much. Could be the 1 piece driveshaft from godzillaraceworks, could be i need an alignment after installing the z1 forged front upper control arms.
So i figured out the issue with my crank sensor, went to go test it out and noticed a few things. 1. Transmission disengages sometimes coming to a stop, feels like it goes into neutral and then grabs again a second or 2 later, no issue with this once moving good. 2. Bad vibration up past 90 mph, about 110 its bad enough you can't make out anything in the rear view mirror because its vibrating so much. Could be the 1 piece driveshaft from godzillaraceworks, could be i need an alignment after installing the z1 forged front upper control arms.
I have the same vibration issue after adding the godzillaraceworks driveshaft. Happens at about the same speed too. When I got the driveshaft the main thing that threw me off was how light it was compared to my stock one. The steel is definitely considerably thinner. I think I’m going to have another shop rebalance it to see if they can dial it in for higher speeds. For the price and fitment I couldn’t complain too much about it, but when I eventually go FI a thicker walled driveshaft will definitely be needed.
Price definitely isn't bad compared to driveshaft shop, looking at prices for those for my charger the godzillaraceworks one is pretty affordable. I didn't realize it telescoped when i first got it and i went under there and was mad it was like 6 inches too short. I'm getting an alignment tomorrow and we'll see if that helps. I have solid motor mounts, subframe bushings, and diff bushings so i don't really mind vibration as long as its not severely damaging other parts of the car. Someone here suggested finding a 2 piece shaft from another Infiniti/nissan that's longer, maybe an m or fx car might be the answer to that. Probably not going forced induction with mine since my charger engine went out from a bad oil pump, I'll just build that instead. Kinda tempted put an ebay 6.1 in it. Sell it, and get a q60. Charger is definitely a better platform for higher power though. The vr30 engines are pretty impressive too though and the awd is a big plus for me. So much you can do with basic mods on a car with factory forced induction.
Driving around today 1st gear is constantly slipping from low speed or a stop. With my luck i probably got a bad transmission. And when i got home it said i needed to put the car in park even though when it shifted it read park on the screen. Had to disconnect the battery to get it to go away.
I'm now getting this everytime i turn the car off accompanied by a loud beep until i disconnect the battery. On the dash where it shows p r n d ds or whatever gear its in it says its in park so i don't know what's causing this.
Figured it out, shift linkage nut was loose for some reason. Put a lock washer on it for good measure.
That was going to be my suggestion as well sometimes that happens. I know on my G37 occasionally I have to push up on it to get it to fully seat and park for the sensor. I'm still wanting to do this walk but I have to finish my G37 coupe LS swap first
Thought I'd post an update. No more issues with the crank sensor or shift linkage. Transmission has still been slipping when i come to a stop or turn a corner. Finally got up the motivation today to try the method posted here to check the fluid level. Had to add about 3 more quarts of fluid and it runs great now, thanks for the step by step on that. The dip stick is not accurate on the level for the vr30 if anyone has it installed. Fill tube is still worth it in my opinion though. The godzillaraceworks driveshaft vibrates bad from 100 to 120 but as soon as the needle passes 120 the vibration is gone entirely, dip below the 120 mark and its back. When i got under there today it didn't seem to be causing any damage so I'll leave it alone for now.
04-22-2024, 08:01 PM
