Ok, so I'm not the most mechanically savvy person so apologies for the 5 year old explanation but need help figuring out what happened so I have a clue as to next steps when I talk to a mechanic.

• Drove car to work in the AM, noticed smoke from the car but thought maybe it's the rain water that leaks into my car evaporating (now we know it wasn't)
• Drove car back home, 2 mins away, I realize car Temp gauge on Max, smoke starts again, I hear a semi explosion, get home a min later.
• Pop hood and I see green liquid, antifreeze I assume, all over the engine and below the car. I turn off the car and haven't done anything yet.

Attached are some pics. Can I get some thoughts as to what happened so I know what to expect when I see a mechanic? Thanks!

 

More than likely the heater hose coupling failed. This is a VERY common issue for these cars. AFTER THE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN, open the hood and look on the passenger-side to the rear of the engine:


If the coupling is broken, you will immediately know it. Also, while you are under the hood check your radiator hoses for loose clamps, burst hoses, etc.

The repair is relatively easy. There are several DIY threads on the forum, including this one that can give you a idea of what all is involved. If you must take the car to a mechanic, MAKE SURE they use a METAL ¾" hose coupling and NOT the OEM plastic crap.

 

@ILM-NC G37S You are a godsend my friend! I appreciate the quick reply and the picture, I'm a visual person so this was very helpful.

You were spot on, it's that connector. I thought it would be more complicated but they DIY made me realize that's all it is, just a connector. I should be able to fix it myself, at least I will try. Will just have to figure out best/fastest place to get that part from, I doubt the dealership has it in stock, we'll see.
I also checked the other hoses and they appear fine to my noob eyes, but will double check again once I have all the battery covers etc. off and take a closer look.

From from NCer to another, many thanks!

 

This happens so often that we need to have @Rochester sticky a few of the more detailed threads into a single post. Once we have that, I can use the stickie thread to respond to the 1-2 of these issues per week I see on the G37 Reddit sub.

 

@ashegam the dealership will only sell you the plastic crap. Do not waste your time or money as the plastic will only fail again over time.

Go to any Advance Auto/ AutoZone/ O'Reilly's, or even Amazon, and get Dorman p/n: 56430. That is a ¾" metal straight hose connector which will suit your needs just fine. The connector, a few clamps, 3-gal. of antifreeze, and a TON of patience and you can get the job done.

There are two main DIY threads for this job:
Heater Hose Connector
DIY Z1 Heater Hose

No thanks needed (from this NY'er to a N.Carolinian- I may live here for now, but I'll always be a NY'er).

 

Oh great tip to go metal and appreciate the part number.

ahh a NY'er, been there only once and loved it, can't wait to visit again. I too am residing in NC for the moment so enjoy your stay, it's not too bad. Cheers!

 

Start a thread where you collect all the other thread links, let me know and I'll sticky it.

 

@ashegam

A few additional tips as I recently performed the replacement proactively myself:

1. Be careful pulling the old plastic coupler out of the hoses as its likely heavily deteriorated and you don't want pieces of it falling into the hose and ultimately inside the coolant system. I started with pliers prying it out, then quickly realized that they would disintegrate the coupling. Instead, I first removed the spring clamps and used a small screwdriver and some tugging to gently pry the hose loose from the old coupling around the edges. Once you work a little area loose, twist, then the rest will easily break away from the hose. Finally, when you have both pieces of the old coupler out, put them together again as a unit to visually make sure you have all the pieces and that nothing fell inside of the coolant system.

Pinch pliers help: https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...ece-63596.html as you wouldn't have to worry as much about tiny pieces of the plastic coupler falling into the cooling system, but I didn't use them.

2. The OEM spring clamps had no plan to ever be removed and this will be the most challenging part of the install. The hose itself swells over time, and the spring clamps barely open enough to loosen around the hose. Add that there is no room to work in that area, and you will see what I mean (have Band-Aids handy). One of my spring clamps broke, so once that happen, I decided to replace with 3/4 inch standard worm clamps like you can buy at home depot. They were much easier to install and work fine for this application (Spring Clamps are still recommended for the main radiator and heater hoses)

3. Buy one of these and be very patient when bleeding the air out of the system as these cars are super picky when it comes to air pockets:
If I recall, it took nearly 15-20 mins for the thermostat to open (feel the lower radiator hose, it should get warm). When it does, the level in the funnel will drop a bit. All good. Just wait till the bubbles are gone.

4. Put the remainder of the coolant in the funnel back into the overflow reservoir. I normally keep mine filled between min and max when at room temp. When the car is at operating temp, the coolant expands and moves through the radiator cap into the reservoir (nears max). When the car cools down, the fluid contracts and heads back through the radiator cap into the coolant system and at that point the coolant in the reservoir will be near the Min setting.

Hope this helps.

 

@socketz67 I really appreciate you taking the time and putting this together, very helpful and removed a lot of stress/unknown for me. Cheers!

 

That's what I was hoping would happen. So many things in life are simple once you know the caveats.

 

@ILM-NC G37S @socketz67 my coolant reservoir is completely empty. Should I put some in there before I start the bleeding process? If not, should I fill it to the Low level after I'm done bleeding? Thanks!

 

You will fill both the radiator and the reservoir (to the specified level) then start the bleeding process.

 

I already put in a whole gallon in there using the big funnel in the DIY video and keeps going down and I haven't even turned the car on yet. Per the video I thought I need to have some left in the funnel so no air bubbles get in there. So I went out and bought another gallon. Should I keep pouring until no more on in there?

 

You should have had 3 gallons to begin with. It takes ≈2½ gallons to fill the system up- slightly more as the reservoir was completely empty (that holds just under a quart by itself at MAX level).

Hell, even my 30-year-old Civic took more than a gallon, lol.

 

So I filled it up more until it stopped, and filled the reservoir too.
Turned on car, with heat on max, and let it do its thing.
it's been more then 20 mins, both the upper and lower hoses are hot now, and blowing consistant hot air inside the car (luke warm at first).
But I'm still getting air bubbles coming up after I press on the accelerator to rev up the engine a bit.

Does this mean it has an air leak somewhere and air keeps getting in somehow?