bread

Huge thanks to @BULL and everyone else from this thread for the knowledge, education, and recommendations in making this happen.

This fabrication requires no welding, if you are willing to weld into your intakes, the process is similar just requires you to cut and weld a 3/8 barb fitting to the side of your intake after the mass air flow sensor.

What youll need:
(I chose these because they have a nut on the other side which can give you reassurance that the fitting won't suck into your motor)
5/8th Drill Bit or whatever size drill bit you need, just measure
3/8th rubber tubing, make sure its oil safe


Step 1:
Dry fit your couplers and mark with a pen or marker where the 2 clamps meet, and where you have squish (or play) in your coupler, the dead center of it will be where you will drill your hole for the fitting.

Step 2:
Drill your hole into the coupler where you made your center mark, be safe doing so, use PPE, and make it as clean of a cut as you can get, cut excess after

Step 3:
Dry fit the barb fitting make sure everything looks good and snug, making sure its pushed as far out as it will go, it will look off, and wont be flush inside the coupler, but it will be okay!
(also if you bought the one I posted, make sure you take the gasket off and put it on the outside not the inside of your fitting lol)

Step 4:
Apply a little bit of RTV around the gasket, and then go ahead and screw on the nut with the thread sealant (if you please), but dont screw it too tight or you will see your coupler bend straight, you want a little slack but not too much slack, as you want your coupler to still be circular.

Then go ahead and just lather up the whole unit with RTV, you want to create an air tight seal, and I recommend doing 2 coats of RTV, the smoother the better to ensure you are getting into all the gaps and imperfections. And you can smooth it out to your liking so it looks a little less ratchet

Step 5:
Let it cure for 12-24 hours before use. I took my couplers in the bathroom as I took a hot shower because silicone cures with moisture, and this will help speed up the process. Once cured it should be rubbery.

Step 6:
Attach couplers to the vehicle, and adjust your fitting as necessary. Then go ahead and attach all your hoses properly, as it would be on an OEM setup.
Note: For the hoses going into the intakes, I took out the stock plastic blocks that normally would go into the side of the motor, in replace of 3/8th hose. The hose fits perfectly snug into the 5/8th hose it came out of, with that you are able to just plug it right in, just make sure there are no kinks, or too drastic of bends. Check the photos below for how I did mine. Unfortunately, with this setup, the cover wont fit back on, because you need to make sure that the hoses stay kink free. If you were to run a more traditional setup where the barb fitting is on the intake itself and not this DIY, the cover would fit because the hose has more play/clearance.

Step 7:
Run your catch cans as if you were running a closed setup, so follow any youtube video that shows a G/Z putting one together, the "In" side is on the side of the crankcase, and the "Out" is what we would have originally plugged up, which is on the intake manifold.

Remember:
When running stock PCV setup, you must unplug your manifold, you have to run the car like you are running OEM, (if you arent doing catch cans), so put back your stock hose, and replace your gutted pcv valves with stock ones with the spring.

Check for leaks, if you have an air leak or anything of the sort, you may need to reapply your RTV

DO NOT apply any kind of RTV to the inside of your coupler, you risk sucking that into your motor and we don't want that.

Right side:
Left Side:
Whole engine bay, with my catch cans:


bread

I chose red because they had the fastest shipping dont care for looks, will be welding a fitting on later down the line, im here for functionality not looks, as you can tell from my zip tied catch cans from ebay

843g

Nice write up! I was about to go down a similar path, but found these on amazon:

I'm wondering if they would stretch enough to fit around 3 inch intakes, if so, it would be as simple as trimming the length since they're a little long. Might give it a shot and just return them if they don't work out.

bread

looks like youll be stretching it over the intake quite a bit, but this looks like it can work. as long as one end is 2.75" and the other is 3". maybe with enough heat or some lubrication around the intake tube, you can slide it down the pipe

edit:
the problem with admin pipes is it goes alllll the way up to the TB, theres no play/wiggle room
if someone made basically what i made with molded silicone, where theres a nipple in the center, that'd be equivalent AND you wouldnt lose "air flow" because there isnt something on the inside cutting the smooth flow