Help Power Steering Noise Can’t Fix
#1
Power Steering Noise Can’t Fix
Not sure if this is the right forum, but I have a power steering fluid cavitation issue that cannot seem to be fixed. I’ve had everything replaced in my entire power steering system (reservoir, pump, all hoses, steering rack, etc) except the PS cooler yet i’m still getting cavitation which is creating grinding sounds from the pump. Its usually the loudest on a cold start then gets better throughout the drive.
The issue first came around the day after a track day at Willow Springs and thats when i slowly started replacing things. The pumps been replaced 4 times, and the cooler was tested with 1000psi of air to make sure there’s now clogs or holes. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on? I brought it to Infiniti before replacing everything, and their diagnosis was to replace everything (of course), which I did by a VQ knowledgable mechanic who owned a G37 himself. He gave up after trying everything he could think of to fix this problem.
Someone please help. Shoot anything you may have because i’m really stretching for ideas here.
The issue first came around the day after a track day at Willow Springs and thats when i slowly started replacing things. The pumps been replaced 4 times, and the cooler was tested with 1000psi of air to make sure there’s now clogs or holes. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on? I brought it to Infiniti before replacing everything, and their diagnosis was to replace everything (of course), which I did by a VQ knowledgable mechanic who owned a G37 himself. He gave up after trying everything he could think of to fix this problem.
Someone please help. Shoot anything you may have because i’m really stretching for ideas here.
#2
Not sure if this is the right forum, but I have a power steering fluid cavitation issue that cannot seem to be fixed. I’ve had everything replaced in my entire power steering system (reservoir, pump, all hoses, steering rack, etc) except the PS cooler yet i’m still getting cavitation which is creating grinding sounds from the pump. Its usually the loudest on a cold start then gets better throughout the drive.
The issue first came around the day after a track day at Willow Springs and thats when i slowly started replacing things. The pumps been replaced 4 times, and the cooler was tested with 1000psi of air to make sure there’s now clogs or holes. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on? I brought it to Infiniti before replacing everything, and their diagnosis was to replace everything (of course), which I did by a VQ knowledgable mechanic who owned a G37 himself. He gave up after trying everything he could think of to fix this problem.
Someone please help. Shoot anything you may have because i’m really stretching for ideas here.
The issue first came around the day after a track day at Willow Springs and thats when i slowly started replacing things. The pumps been replaced 4 times, and the cooler was tested with 1000psi of air to make sure there’s now clogs or holes. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on? I brought it to Infiniti before replacing everything, and their diagnosis was to replace everything (of course), which I did by a VQ knowledgable mechanic who owned a G37 himself. He gave up after trying everything he could think of to fix this problem.
Someone please help. Shoot anything you may have because i’m really stretching for ideas here.
Transmission type?
Sport/base?
Type of fluid?
Events on when it happens? start up/all the time/over time/upon abuse.
#3
Hey thanks for reaching out. Sorry I probably should have said all this stuff.
2010 G coupe sport m/t
fluid: not sure what was in there to start, but my mechanic has used Redline Full Synthetic, Idemitsu, and redline D4. All acted the same.
It happened first the day after a track day, then never went away after. Always on cold starts and becomes more subtle throughout drive. After rack/pump/HP hoses were replaced, it went away for like 2 weeks. Comes back immediately after standard fluid flush. You can hear the sound standing in neutral and just revving. Becomes louder if you add steering input in either direction. The mechanic said the noise is most definitely coming from PS pump.
lmk if there’s any other info I should provide
#4
Hey thanks for reaching out. Sorry I probably should have said all this stuff.
2010 G coupe sport m/t
fluid: not sure what was in there to start, but my mechanic has used Redline Full Synthetic, Idemitsu, and redline D4. All acted the same.
It happened first the day after a track day, then never went away after. Always on cold starts and becomes more subtle throughout drive. After rack/pump/HP hoses were replaced, it went away for like 2 weeks. Comes back immediately after standard fluid flush. You can hear the sound standing in neutral and just revving. Becomes louder if you add steering input in either direction. The mechanic said the noise is most definitely coming from PS pump.
lmk if there’s any other info I should provide
2010 G coupe sport m/t
fluid: not sure what was in there to start, but my mechanic has used Redline Full Synthetic, Idemitsu, and redline D4. All acted the same.
It happened first the day after a track day, then never went away after. Always on cold starts and becomes more subtle throughout drive. After rack/pump/HP hoses were replaced, it went away for like 2 weeks. Comes back immediately after standard fluid flush. You can hear the sound standing in neutral and just revving. Becomes louder if you add steering input in either direction. The mechanic said the noise is most definitely coming from PS pump.
lmk if there’s any other info I should provide
These pumps are finicky with fluid, only Nissan ATF should be used. It's possible that the pump got messed up when with the fluid he originally used.
A new pump and fresh Nissan ATF should be used. Because it starts whining upon starts means worn pump/incorrect fluid. The good news on that is that the sport pump is the same for Titan, Armada, QX56.
I have that pump in my sport sedan and it can be found for $60 so it shouldn't be so expensive to change this again. ( pulley and pump bracket need to be from the G37)
It would also require a full flush again, most folks who used other fluids have done so after they ran Nissan fluid.
#5
I take it the power steering pump it has is the Sport's pump (nut in the middle)
These pumps are finicky with fluid, only Nissan ATF should be used. It's possible that the pump got messed up when with the fluid he originally used.
A new pump and fresh Nissan ATF should be used. Because it starts whining upon starts means worn pump/incorrect fluid. The good news on that is that the sport pump is the same for Titan, Armada, QX56.
I have that pump in my sport sedan and it can be found for $60 so it shouldn't be so expensive to change this again. ( pulley and pump bracket need to be from the G37)
It would also require a full flush again, most folks who used other fluids have done so after they ran Nissan fluid.
These pumps are finicky with fluid, only Nissan ATF should be used. It's possible that the pump got messed up when with the fluid he originally used.
A new pump and fresh Nissan ATF should be used. Because it starts whining upon starts means worn pump/incorrect fluid. The good news on that is that the sport pump is the same for Titan, Armada, QX56.
I have that pump in my sport sedan and it can be found for $60 so it shouldn't be so expensive to change this again. ( pulley and pump bracket need to be from the G37)
It would also require a full flush again, most folks who used other fluids have done so after they ran Nissan fluid.
Thats interesting because I’ve heard of people using various fluids. My mechanic had a drift G37 with stock PS system and used the redline fluid with no issues. But I supposed its worth a shot to change the fluid out. I just had the pump literally replaced again yesterday for free and the Redline Synthetic PSF was put in. Should i just try switching to the Nissan ATF fluid and hope that the pump isn’t damaged?
#6
Thats interesting because I’ve heard of people using various fluids. My mechanic had a drift G37 with stock PS system and used the redline fluid with no issues. But I supposed its worth a shot to change the fluid out. I just had the pump literally replaced again yesterday for free and the Redline Synthetic PSF was put in. Should i just try switching to the Nissan ATF fluid and hope that the pump isn’t damaged?
Whats the brand of the pump? Can you post a picture?
#7
That's very weird, ou should still try it for the sake of the process of elimination however you and your friend are right it should be able to handle red line just fine. It wouldn't hurt to try switching over however fluid cavitation/whine should normally happen after warm up other than the initial whine as air leaves the system.
Whats the brand of the pump? Can you post a picture?
Whats the brand of the pump? Can you post a picture?
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#8
Looks to be the right pump.
Here's a thread I made with pictures comparing the journey vs the sports G37 pump and in the bottom ones comparing the OEM sports vs the titan pump.
Titan is what I'm running and it feels exactly the same. I seriously doubt all of those pumps keep failing.
Then confirmation of flow through the cooler should remove it from being a fault.
The racks are the same, I'm running a Journey rack in my sport (same numbers on the rack)
Doubt the PSW is causing this because it's job is to inform the ECM, the pump has a mechanical relief valve
A weird possibility could be the rack is causing this issue by t's internally leaking/bypassing the pressurized fluid into the return.
For further diag, you should switch the feed hose to the pump with a temporary clear one, I suspect the filter inside the reservoir is saturated and it's causing the fluid not to flow properly into the pump creating pockets of vacuum. These pockets will introduce air into the pump causing the whine and cavitation. With a clear hose you should be able to see these pockets or at least if the fluid is moving correctly into the pump. A type of reservoir bypass/homemade reservoir to remove this possibility out of the equation
Here's a thread I made with pictures comparing the journey vs the sports G37 pump and in the bottom ones comparing the OEM sports vs the titan pump.
Titan is what I'm running and it feels exactly the same. I seriously doubt all of those pumps keep failing.
Then confirmation of flow through the cooler should remove it from being a fault.
The racks are the same, I'm running a Journey rack in my sport (same numbers on the rack)
Doubt the PSW is causing this because it's job is to inform the ECM, the pump has a mechanical relief valve
A weird possibility could be the rack is causing this issue by t's internally leaking/bypassing the pressurized fluid into the return.
For further diag, you should switch the feed hose to the pump with a temporary clear one, I suspect the filter inside the reservoir is saturated and it's causing the fluid not to flow properly into the pump creating pockets of vacuum. These pockets will introduce air into the pump causing the whine and cavitation. With a clear hose you should be able to see these pockets or at least if the fluid is moving correctly into the pump. A type of reservoir bypass/homemade reservoir to remove this possibility out of the equation
#9
Looks to be the right pump.
Here's a thread I made with pictures comparing the journey vs the sports G37 pump and in the bottom ones comparing the OEM sports vs the titan pump.
Titan is what I'm running and it feels exactly the same. I seriously doubt all of those pumps keep failing.
Then confirmation of flow through the cooler should remove it from being a fault.
The racks are the same, I'm running a Journey rack in my sport (same numbers on the rack)
Doubt the PSW is causing this because it's job is to inform the ECM, the pump has a mechanical relief valve
A weird possibility could be the rack is causing this issue by t's internally leaking/bypassing the pressurized fluid into the return.
For further diag, you should switch the feed hose to the pump with a temporary clear one, I suspect the filter inside the reservoir is saturated and it's causing the fluid not to flow properly into the pump creating pockets of vacuum. These pockets will introduce air into the pump causing the whine and cavitation. With a clear hose you should be able to see these pockets or at least if the fluid is moving correctly into the pump. A type of reservoir bypass/homemade reservoir to remove this possibility out of the equation
Here's a thread I made with pictures comparing the journey vs the sports G37 pump and in the bottom ones comparing the OEM sports vs the titan pump.
Titan is what I'm running and it feels exactly the same. I seriously doubt all of those pumps keep failing.
Then confirmation of flow through the cooler should remove it from being a fault.
The racks are the same, I'm running a Journey rack in my sport (same numbers on the rack)
Doubt the PSW is causing this because it's job is to inform the ECM, the pump has a mechanical relief valve
A weird possibility could be the rack is causing this issue by t's internally leaking/bypassing the pressurized fluid into the return.
For further diag, you should switch the feed hose to the pump with a temporary clear one, I suspect the filter inside the reservoir is saturated and it's causing the fluid not to flow properly into the pump creating pockets of vacuum. These pockets will introduce air into the pump causing the whine and cavitation. With a clear hose you should be able to see these pockets or at least if the fluid is moving correctly into the pump. A type of reservoir bypass/homemade reservoir to remove this possibility out of the equation
#10
ok I see what you’re saying, thats a good idea. The reservoir is brand new though, so I doubt the filter would be saturated. However I can’t remember where my mechanic said he got the filter from. I think it wasn’t oem but it was received from the same suppliers that make the oem? I can post some pictures of it when I get back to my car.
A brand new/cleaned reservoir should take care of this. A clear hose will let you know if how the fluid is flowing into the pump.
#11
Last edited by gomez015; 06-30-2022 at 04:34 PM.
#13
ok yeah I think I’m gona try swapping out to the nissan fluid asap, since my pump is only 2 days old right now. Hopefully I didn’t damage it if the fluid is the issue
#14
Good advice in here, but also make sure you’re properly priming the pump, as dry running/cavitation on a new pump can cause damage. The best way I’ve found is to fill the reservoir to the top, then start the car for 1 second, just enough to pull the fluid in, then fill again and do the same, this way you’re not dry running the pump and foaming the fluid. Last thing I would say is kinda obvious, and it looks like you have a good tech working on your car judging by how clean everything is in your photos after several pump replacements, lol. But make sure you have the proper length belt and a good belt tensioner and it’s not allowing slip on that pulley, slip will cause fluid backup in the rack and cavitation.
#15
Good advice in here, but also make sure you’re properly priming the pump, as dry running/cavitation on a new pump can cause damage. The best way I’ve found is to fill the reservoir to the top, then start the car for 1 second, just enough to pull the fluid in, then fill again and do the same, this way you’re not dry running the pump and foaming the fluid. Last thing I would say is kinda obvious, and it looks like you have a good tech working on your car judging by how clean everything is in your photos after several pump replacements, lol. But make sure you have the proper length belt and a good belt tensioner and it’s not allowing slip on that pulley, slip will cause fluid backup in the rack and cavitation.
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Ponyryd (07-01-2022)