2011 G37X Sedan Clicking from D to R and R to D.

Throwing it into neutral doesn’t change effect. Once in D, going to neutral and back does not click. Same with reverse. Multiple successions of N to R do not cause clicking aside from the initial click. Sound is very loud. Ruled out transfer case and anything from front half of vehicle.

I have shot differential bushings that I haven’t gotten around to fixing. My wifes 2009 Base Sedan does the same as well. Just threw some JBWeld epoxy inside with it lifted and it has helped the movement of the bushing (it’s no longer crushed), will get around to dropping the diff next week possibly. Don’t want to swap the bushing until I know the diff is good, but don’t want to buy another diff incase it’s fine. (Will be cleaning up rust etc once I drop it.)

I am at a loss right now.

 

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That sounds like the infamous Nissan axle click.

There's a TSB for it.

https://www.tsbsearch.com/Infiniti/ITB13-008B

 

Thanks for the reply,

I was thinking the same thing. There was a 370z forum where the guy replaced the castle nut with a Kawasaki branded one, and added spring washers. I was in the process of ordering those, seems to have had success with it. Thoughts?

 

I went with the TSB. They didn't charge me anything, and it lasted quite a while (I don't recall exactly how long). When the click returned, the dealer did it a second time for free.

 

Though that's a fix for commonly clicking axles, the OP's problem wont be solved by anything other than replacement.

This click should be a typical "click" similar to a single plastic click and not many like in the video.

As you can see your clicking is coming from the inner axle after months of so. At this point it's the inner spine deteriorated and is clicking.

Other than disassembly and repair of the inner part of the axle will fix it, the simpler way would be axle replacement with some nice torque lube on the outer shaft/spline.

 

This may be a stupid question, but in the video I engaged the parking brake and pressed the brakes when going from R to D. If I remove one axle (Drivers side) and attempt the test again, I’m assuming the differential will spin since the axle (which attaches the braking system) has been pulled out. I’m trying to isolate the side, but don’t want to damage something in the process. Since it’s the X, I’m wondering how that will play with removing the axle and testing.

 

The video is pretty clear that the presented axle is bad and needs changing. As for the second one your best bet is to use a monkey wrench or another type of device to hold the axle stub in place to see if it happens on the other side.

Another trick is to use a long metal bar that you can place one end of the bar inside of your ear and the other bar on to the axle stub, you should hear this click through the metal bar, it should be sensitive enough to pick up any clicking however might not on the crunching type noises. This noise should be felt by hand, if it is then you should do the same for the other side to confirm.

More than likely is just that side however please know this will affect the other one as well. I had one click at the beginning of owning my car and now I can hear both over time.

 

It seems to me that it is coming from both upon inspection, but I also didn’t want to wrongly assume that the clicks and noise can also transfer from one side to the other. I’m not sure how the differential connects the two axles, but in a nutshell they are in one form or another. I’ll drop the driver side and replace, and see if the other side continues to make the noise as well.

I have read bad things about aftermarket axles such as fvp and gsp. I don’t wish to go the oem route due to prohibitive cost, just the inner joint kit is over 600 bucks. I know that Napa has them, and seems to be a more decent alternative to cheaper brands. Thoughts?

 

I'm pretty sure that's the typical Nissan axle click. I would diagnose carefully, enlisting the help of a trusted shop if necessary, before you start buying replacement axles. They're expensive.

 

I will follow the tsb, try it out and then do the Kawasaki nut fix paired with the new axle if the tsb doesn’t solve the issue. You’re right that axles are expensive, but I did find two on Napa shipped to my door for around 300 bucks total. It’s not mind numbing cost, much less than oem, though I don’t know how the axles will handle the torque of the vehicle over time. It’s not a Hyundai.

 

I had bad luck aftermarket axles on my Subaru, and it was putting down about half the toque of the G. Not saying they're all bad, but they're probably cheaper for a reason...

 

well if it turns to that, I really hope it works out.

In other news, I just took the driver side rear tire off and broke the castle nut free off my axle with one hand on a 1/2 inch breaker bar (maybe 24”).

Interesting.

Iv seen torque rating @ 98 lb, 150, and even now 175. I’m guessing this was @ 50 or so. I’m wary to try 175, but 150 sounds about right for an axle nut.

 

74 – 77 ft-lb according to the FSM. Seems kind of low. In fact, the whole setup seems kind of flimsy.

 

I took mine off, greased everything, Torqued until I couldn't turn the 3 foot breaker bar. Still single clicks. I beat the **** out of it daily.

I know it will happen, however when my click turns into a more progressive one like yours it will stay like that.