Help Filled up my gas tank and got 5 codes
#1
Filled up my gas tank and got 5 codes
So today I went to Costco gas to fill up on gas. I was at about half a tank to begin with and filled up with premium 91 as preferred in these kind of cars.
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
#2
I didn't check to see what the codes were, but it sounds like an Electrical Issue to me, just because you mentioned that it was hard to start.
I'd start with the battery & battery cables. Measure the voltage and unhook, clean, reinstall the cables.
Several others will more than likely chime in on this later today, so any updates that you can provide will help all of us to help you diagnose your problem.
I'd start with the battery & battery cables. Measure the voltage and unhook, clean, reinstall the cables.
Several others will more than likely chime in on this later today, so any updates that you can provide will help all of us to help you diagnose your problem.
#3
So today I went to Costco gas to fill up on gas. I was at about half a tank to begin with and filled up with premium 91 as preferred in these kind of cars.
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
If you are going to attempt a repair yourself it might be a good ideal to download the FSM especially the Engine Control System.
You may have a poor connection in your wiring harness or something more?
Good luck
#4
So today I went to Costco gas to fill up on gas. I was at about half a tank to begin with and filled up with premium 91 as preferred in these kind of cars.
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
When you get so many VVEL codes most of the times they're related to the power leads that feed the unit, these attach to the positive battery terminal.
It would be a good idea to scuff and clean any ground you find in the battery area.
Start with this, lastly there is a huge black connector in that area, this connector is known to get dirty and it carries VVEL wiring so improper connection in this connector will give you these codes as well.
#5
i did see another thread mentioning the FSM and was taking a look at it last night, but just wanted to see if anyone had any similar problems that would give me a good starting place.
thanks for your suggestion!
#6
So today I went to Costco gas to fill up on gas. I was at about half a tank to begin with and filled up with premium 91 as preferred in these kind of cars.
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
once I was done filling up, I went back into the car to start it up and go home.
car struggled to start, but started none the less.
the idle didn’t sound bad
however when I went to pull off, I put it in 1st gear and started to give it some gas and let go of the clutch. The gas pedal was not responding. I had it floored all the way down and car stayed at 1k rpm.
pulled over and tried to restart it, same thing.
checked codes and got the following:P1090
P1091
P1092
P1093
P010B
i tried to get home going about 3-5 mph and only made it about a block before the car started to jerk really hard. Called a tow truck and got it towed home. Now the car won’t turn on, no electricity to lock or auto roll up windows.
I ended up disconnecting the battery and locking the car manually with the key in the key fob.
Most of the codes are VVEL related. So how do I go about repairing everything?
I am trying to do it myself, but I understand VVEL can be a little complicated.
if anyone can help me out and avoid dealership fees, I would be grateful
attempted to jumpstart the car, unsuccessful.
was able to roll the windows back up and that’s about it.
car was trying to start but only gave one or 2 turns before dying out.
left cables connected for a few minutes to try and “charge” my battery up and tried to start up again.
no luck.
battery is from November 2021, so it shouldn’t be dead
#7
Not sure how much help this will be, but there were issues with some 2008's and 2009's having "problematic" VVEL relays... There is a good troubleshooting guide for the VVEL relay over on the370z.com which you can look over.
Also, there was another member who was having a similar "No Start" issue that was finally narrowed down to a Melted VVEL connector near the battery. While the symptoms are not identical, the connector is...
Make sure all of the fuses/ fusible links are good- especially the ones at the positive battery terminal. Also, ensure the battery is fully charged and that all of the clamps/ posts are clean and secure. A battery purchased Nov 2021 should be good, but stranger things can happen. Plus. the older G's are notorious for having charging issues if you do a lot of short trips... just throwing out ideas...
As others have mentioned, the FSM (Section EC (Engine Control System)) will have the entire troubleshooting protocol for those codes. If you have a digital multimeter, I would start tackling those items... If I think of anything else I will update...
Also, there was another member who was having a similar "No Start" issue that was finally narrowed down to a Melted VVEL connector near the battery. While the symptoms are not identical, the connector is...
Make sure all of the fuses/ fusible links are good- especially the ones at the positive battery terminal. Also, ensure the battery is fully charged and that all of the clamps/ posts are clean and secure. A battery purchased Nov 2021 should be good, but stranger things can happen. Plus. the older G's are notorious for having charging issues if you do a lot of short trips... just throwing out ideas...
As others have mentioned, the FSM (Section EC (Engine Control System)) will have the entire troubleshooting protocol for those codes. If you have a digital multimeter, I would start tackling those items... If I think of anything else I will update...
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#8
Best place to start is to disconnect your battery overnight to clear the codes (and charge the battery while its disconnected). Then reconnect and see what happens, Also, (I think it was mentioned) look for water intrusion inside the battery compartment.
P1090 is Bank 1 (Passenger side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts,
P1093 is Bank 2 (Driver side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts.
I doubt both would fail at the same time, this points to maybe a wiring or electrical problem, or a weak battery as was noted.
P1092 is the Bank 2 camshaft position sensor.
This could possibly be your culprit especially if you have higher mileage. Seems to be a common failure item. but check the connection first to make sure its clean and not loose.
The above codes will cause the car to go into limp mode holding RPM to <= 3500
P010B is the Bank 2 MAF sensor.
This is all too common. Since it's an 08, there is an ECU Tech Service Bulletin that could help out, look for TSB ITB09-028. Simpler solution is to remove the driver side MAF sensor and clean it. If it comes back after clearing the codes.
P1090 is Bank 1 (Passenger side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts,
P1093 is Bank 2 (Driver side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts.
I doubt both would fail at the same time, this points to maybe a wiring or electrical problem, or a weak battery as was noted.
P1092 is the Bank 2 camshaft position sensor.
This could possibly be your culprit especially if you have higher mileage. Seems to be a common failure item. but check the connection first to make sure its clean and not loose.
The above codes will cause the car to go into limp mode holding RPM to <= 3500
P010B is the Bank 2 MAF sensor.
This is all too common. Since it's an 08, there is an ECU Tech Service Bulletin that could help out, look for TSB ITB09-028. Simpler solution is to remove the driver side MAF sensor and clean it. If it comes back after clearing the codes.
#9
Not sure how much help this will be, but there were issues with some 2008's and 2009's having "problematic" VVEL relays... There is a good troubleshooting guide for the VVEL relay over on the370z.com which you can look over.
Also, there was another member who was having a similar "No Start" issue that was finally narrowed down to a Melted VVEL connector near the battery. While the symptoms are not identical, the connector is...
Make sure all of the fuses/ fusible links are good- especially the ones at the positive battery terminal. Also, ensure the battery is fully charged and that all of the clamps/ posts are clean and secure. A battery purchased Nov 2021 should be good, but stranger things can happen. Plus. the older G's are notorious for having charging issues if you do a lot of short trips... just throwing out ideas...
As others have mentioned, the FSM (Section EC (Engine Control System)) will have the entire troubleshooting protocol for those codes. If you have a digital multimeter, I would start tackling those items... If I think of anything else I will update...
Also, there was another member who was having a similar "No Start" issue that was finally narrowed down to a Melted VVEL connector near the battery. While the symptoms are not identical, the connector is...
Make sure all of the fuses/ fusible links are good- especially the ones at the positive battery terminal. Also, ensure the battery is fully charged and that all of the clamps/ posts are clean and secure. A battery purchased Nov 2021 should be good, but stranger things can happen. Plus. the older G's are notorious for having charging issues if you do a lot of short trips... just throwing out ideas...
As others have mentioned, the FSM (Section EC (Engine Control System)) will have the entire troubleshooting protocol for those codes. If you have a digital multimeter, I would start tackling those items... If I think of anything else I will update...
however the car would not attempt to turn over at all. Not sure if both relays need to be plugged in to start car?
I changed the VVEL fuse near the battery as well.
currently looking for a VVEL relay to swap out with.
next would be to swap the VVEL actuator on the positive terminal right?
#10
Best place to start is to disconnect your battery overnight to clear the codes (and charge the battery while its disconnected). Then reconnect and see what happens, Also, (I think it was mentioned) look for water intrusion inside the battery compartment.
P1090 is Bank 1 (Passenger side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts,
P1093 is Bank 2 (Driver side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts.
I doubt both would fail at the same time, this points to maybe a wiring or electrical problem, or a weak battery as was noted.
P1092 is the Bank 2 camshaft position sensor.
This could possibly be your culprit especially if you have higher mileage. Seems to be a common failure item. but check the connection first to make sure its clean and not loose.
The above codes will cause the car to go into limp mode holding RPM to <= 3500
P010B is the Bank 2 MAF sensor.
This is all too common. Since it's an 08, there is an ECU Tech Service Bulletin that could help out, look for TSB ITB09-028. Simpler solution is to remove the driver side MAF sensor and clean it. If it comes back after clearing the codes.
P1090 is Bank 1 (Passenger side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts,
P1093 is Bank 2 (Driver side) VVEL actuator motor or related parts.
I doubt both would fail at the same time, this points to maybe a wiring or electrical problem, or a weak battery as was noted.
P1092 is the Bank 2 camshaft position sensor.
This could possibly be your culprit especially if you have higher mileage. Seems to be a common failure item. but check the connection first to make sure its clean and not loose.
The above codes will cause the car to go into limp mode holding RPM to <= 3500
P010B is the Bank 2 MAF sensor.
This is all too common. Since it's an 08, there is an ECU Tech Service Bulletin that could help out, look for TSB ITB09-028. Simpler solution is to remove the driver side MAF sensor and clean it. If it comes back after clearing the codes.
i didn’t see any water intrusion near the battery compartment.
p1090 - would that be the VVEL actuator attached to the positive terminal cable?
p1093 - haven’t tried anything with that yet, I have to look online to find where that’s at
p1092 - camshaft sensor I believe was just replaced less than a month ago, but not 100% sure. Where would I check for the wiring to not be loose?
p010b - I’ll try cleaning the driver side maf sensor and see if that code comes back
#11
If the electronics are going dead and the engine is not even turning over then you have a separate power issue. Likely the VVEL codes are a symptom of that issue, not a cause. DO NOT start throwing parts at a problem that may not even exist.
There are a lot of fuses/ links in the battery box and especially on the positive terminal itself: go through them all, physically pull and check that they are good, clean, and show no signs of corrosion, water or other potential failure.
Check your cables: clean and secure? The battery was disconnected overnight... was it placed on a charger? When reconnected, did you check for any new codes?
Even if the VVEL is "off line" the electronics (radio/ lights/ etc.) should still work with zero issues. Also, the engine should turn over healthy and strong even if it does not fire up (provided the battery is fully charged).
There are a lot of fuses/ links in the battery box and especially on the positive terminal itself: go through them all, physically pull and check that they are good, clean, and show no signs of corrosion, water or other potential failure.
Check your cables: clean and secure? The battery was disconnected overnight... was it placed on a charger? When reconnected, did you check for any new codes?
Even if the VVEL is "off line" the electronics (radio/ lights/ etc.) should still work with zero issues. Also, the engine should turn over healthy and strong even if it does not fire up (provided the battery is fully charged).
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 02-10-2022 at 10:45 AM.
#12
So I had AutoZone test the battery and it came back as a “bad battery”
they said it charged 100% but it won’t hold it or something like that.
double checked the crankshaft to ensure engine was not seized and it’s not.
I was going to test the starter, but since I have a bad battery, I can’t do that right now.
any suggestions on where to start?
they said it charged 100% but it won’t hold it or something like that.
double checked the crankshaft to ensure engine was not seized and it’s not.
I was going to test the starter, but since I have a bad battery, I can’t do that right now.
any suggestions on where to start?
#13
um... Did you get another/ fresh, new battery? You mentioned you just replaced the battery Nov 2021- there has to be a warranty in effect...
These cars demand a lot of power at startup. A weak battery will cause a lot of issues. Get a fresh battery and go from there. Do not start randomly checking things and throwing parts at it until you get a new battery.
These cars demand a lot of power at startup. A weak battery will cause a lot of issues. Get a fresh battery and go from there. Do not start randomly checking things and throwing parts at it until you get a new battery.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 02-16-2022 at 10:19 PM.
#14
So I had AutoZone test the battery and it came back as a “bad battery”
they said it charged 100% but it won’t hold it or something like that.
double checked the crankshaft to ensure engine was not seized and it’s not.
I was going to test the starter, but since I have a bad battery, I can’t do that right now.
any suggestions on where to start?
they said it charged 100% but it won’t hold it or something like that.
double checked the crankshaft to ensure engine was not seized and it’s not.
I was going to test the starter, but since I have a bad battery, I can’t do that right now.
any suggestions on where to start?