Heater Hose Connector
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Heater Hose Connector
If your G37 is getting older, and in the 100K miles I would recommend replacing the heater hose connector on the passenger side. Luckily I caught it in time before the plastic heater hose connector broke in half, I had coolant dripping everywhere. I only replaced the hose connector since the hoses were in good shape and I used Dorman 3/4 inch straight heater hose connector (part number: 56430). When taking the hoses out, you do not need to take the hose out that connects to the back of the engine it is just a hassle, only remove the hose that is connected to the back of the firewall. After removing the hose just squeeze the tube, and the plastic connector will just fall apart, then place the Dorman. For the hose that is connected to the back of the engine, there is enough room to grab the hose and face it down, and you can just squeeze the tube and all of the pieces will fall out. Make sure to keep it facing down until all of the pieces come out, you do not want any of it getting stuck. You can also close off the tube with some pliers just to be 100% sure that none of the plastic pieces go inside. After that just connect the hose to the firewall side, then join the two connectors. You will have to drain the coolant and then refill it. To make it easier to get the clamps out use 11 inches, 90-degree pliers.
The broken plastic connector
After replacing it with the Dorman connector
The broken plastic connector
After replacing it with the Dorman connector
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Yes, if you already have the hoses you can replace them. I have had a few cars with 200k miles with OEM hoses and never had issues, the only things that tend to go out is the hose clamps. They tend to lose their tension and cause small drips. But, I rather have small drips than have a hose connector snap in half, because once it snaps you lose all of your coolant instantly.
#4
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Generic question (may have been asked before), but is the connector even necessary?
I know I will be tackling this project in the fall with all new hoses, but was wondering if those couplers are needed or would it be better to just straight plumb the hoses? The less connections/clamps, less likelihood of potential leaks. Just thinking it loud...
I know I will be tackling this project in the fall with all new hoses, but was wondering if those couplers are needed or would it be better to just straight plumb the hoses? The less connections/clamps, less likelihood of potential leaks. Just thinking it loud...
#7
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Generic question (may have been asked before), but is the connector even necessary?
I know I will be tackling this project in the fall with all new hoses, but was wondering if those couplers are needed or would it be better to just straight plumb the hoses? The less connections/clamps, less likelihood of potential leaks. Just thinking it loud...
I know I will be tackling this project in the fall with all new hoses, but was wondering if those couplers are needed or would it be better to just straight plumb the hoses? The less connections/clamps, less likelihood of potential leaks. Just thinking it loud...
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#8
Thanks all for the information. I already have the scheduled for the spring and after I have acquired all the hoses and fittings. My G has original hoses at 130K and I'd just as soon not be stranded due to my own negligence iCrap, you say that Z1 has a replacement hose fitting with the bleeder? Is this the same fitting as the Dorman fitting at the top of this thread?
I can see this job is going to require some gymnastics to complete given the close proximity of the engine to the rear firewall. Other than what Said Amir posted, any tips/tricks/curse words that help in this?
I can see this job is going to require some gymnastics to complete given the close proximity of the engine to the rear firewall. Other than what Said Amir posted, any tips/tricks/curse words that help in this?
#10
Thanks for the info ILM-NC G37S I do agree that Z1's parts look like serious overkill as I already have a bleeder screw in the system. I'll probably opt for the Home Depot or Dorman options instead
#11
Moderador
14mm 3/8s deep socket for the chrome look
#12
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
I keep putting this off and I know I'm going to regret it soon as I'm at 95k currently. I used a coolant exchange machine when I did my coolant service last year so I didn't need to bleed the system but from what I gather using the OEM bleeder in front of the driver side air box is a PITA compared to Z1's "easier to access" bleeder port. I have also read the O-ring on the Z1 bleeder port dries out prematurely so some users upgraded to higher quality O-Ring during the initial install. Aftermarket parts for you, more complexity more potential problems...sounds like most German cars actually lol.
#14
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
92401-JK20A (from connector to firewall (heater core)) ≈$10;
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.
#15
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
92401-JK20A (from connector to firewall (heater core)) ≈$10;
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.