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OK, let us clear this up before the thread gets muddled with misinformation...
On SOME cars, especially pre-2010, there are TWO (2) connectors... the passenger-side (92417) AND one on the driver side (92500U). The difference is that the driver side also incorporates a bleeder valve:
For the 2010 facelift, either this connector was deleted or replaced with one similar to the 92417 unit. Some cars have one while some have none. It is a matter of getting under the hood and visually confirming what the factory installed at the time your car was going down the assembly line.
Driver-side connector failures are highly rare as compared to the passenger-side. I believe the driver-side is a beefier unit because of the bleeder, but I can't say for certainty. Even then, that piece has its own shady history with cracking bleeders/ leaking o-rings. However, as with anything plastic, it can fail as well. I believe @iCrap had his fail but he can correct me if I am wrong.
Again, a visual check will determine if your driver-side has one or not. For reference, the p/n for the driver-side (bleeder) is 92500-JK20A.
Hopefully this will clear things and avoid confusion.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 02-22-2023 at 09:16 AM.
The new stuff. Yes, I was surprised the old coupler did not fall apart.
Those marks on the old coupler are not cracks, just scratches made by my tools when removing.
ILM-NC G37S - Thanks for the background on the pre-2010 models; I recall alot of discussions here on the community regarding the bleeder valve cracking/leaking. I believe this was the original application for the Z1 replacement bleeder.
I have a 2013 and cannot find a connector/coupler on the driver's side.
I recall having one of the bleeder valves on my 2004.5 G35 as well, and many back then complained about the valve failing in a similar manner to the passenger side coupler on the G37.
I just did mine last weekend. Turns out the 11" 90-degree bent pliers was too small. My hands are too damn big and luckily I found a 16" set of pliers that did the trick. Was able to spend 30 minutes replacing the 2 hoses and connector after failing for 1.5 hours prior with a small set of pliers. Do yourself a favor and get the 16" plier and it'll be much easier. I spent $12.50 at HF with a 20% coupon.
This thread is driving me nuts. Didn't have anything to do Saturday so I thought I would tackle this project (G only has 45k but 11 years). First, tried getting the brass coupler from HD. Somehow they don't carry it near me..? Second, tried the dorman help part. Not in stock at advance or auto zone..?? That red one from Amazon is now $26. Ummm no chance in hell I'm spending that. Ended up ordering this from Amazon for $8. Maybe will tackle it next weekend.
Any 3/4” to 3/4” connector will work. Even standard hose clamps are fine. Still not sure why someone like Z1 hasn’t made a one piece hose that connects between the block and firewall.
Tackled this today. One clamp was a total pain. It wouldn't expand enough to go over the flare on the end of the connector. Had to move it to the other side, pull the hose out, then remove the clamp. Unfortunately I could not (or maybe I just gave up trying) get the hose back through the clamp to re-install so I just used a worm clamp. The old connector looked totally fine. Driver's side connector was deleted on mine.
Tackled this today. One clamp was a total pain. It wouldn't expand enough to go over the flare on the end of the connector. Had to move it to the other side, pull the hose out, then remove the clamp. Unfortunately I could not (or maybe I just gave up trying) get the hose back through the clamp to re-install so I just used a worm clamp. The old connector looked totally fine. Driver's side connector was deleted on mine.
I struggled with the spring connectors coming off both sides of the plastic coupler as the hoses that they needed to slide onto (friewall and motor side) were flared such that it was tough to open the clamp up 110% to enable sliding onto the hoses on each side of the coupler. Eventually the most subborn one on the motor side broke, and I ended up buying worm connectors that were much easier to install. I did mine months ago and its holding up great.
Hmm…this is all interesting. I bought a z1 connector as part of my coolant flush. Since I’m changing my coolant color, I’d like to do a true coolant flush, instead of the drain and fill that somehow still gets called a “flush”. I see this this heater hose as a good area to use my Power Bleeder and converter it to push coolant through the heater and engine block, using my Z1 adapter to push/start from, and having it empty out at the back/engine side of the connector hose. That way, after a push-flush, connector install, and the typical drain and fill, I’d just need to bleed the air. I feel like the drain and fill only, still leaves 1/3 of the old coolant to mix with the new down the road. I’ve was looking at pushing coolant through the driver’s side throttle body exit, but think this might be a better.
Thank you so much for the information and directions. These "affinity user groups " are such a superb source of information they make the user manuals seem second rate in most cases.
most times, i've seen this done with spring clamps, that can flex and contract with constant pressure. The worm gear clamps will have 0 give, resulting in increased pressure on the hoses when they expand.
aren't the spring clamps better? or what am I missing?
There's a lot of same-thing going on lately as a number of people get ahead of this hose connector problem (myself included).
I think there's some conventional wisdom that worm clamps aren't the best choice for rubber hoses that get real hot and expand with the heat. I say conventional wisdom because I don't really know, but it sounds right. How long would it take to fail? Years? Again, IDK. But if you accept that premise, then the OEM clamps are the better choice. The problem is getting the leverage to work with them. Those long-nosed pliers from Harbor Freight are a great tool for removing the hose connector, but not so much trying to reinstall a new one. (You could ask me how I came to that conclusion, but I think you can guess, LOL.)
Member mummy2 found a specific purpose tool designed to work with the OEM clamps, for $7 at Amazon:
FWIW - if the spring clamps are NEW, as in @Rocketman37 's post, the tabs are latched together. IE it latches open. You put it where you want it and barely pinch and it will spring apart and clamp. It is VERY hard to get them to re-latch afterwards.
I think given the 14 PSI only nature of the cooling system that worm clamps will likely outlive the car. However, I also think that if standard spring clamps were adequate Nissan would have used those - $3 each vs $17 (retail from the dealer parts counter). So I got new spring clamps. Was it $102 ($17 * 6) that I didn't need to spend? Probably. Same with the new OEM hoses for both sides. But... buy once, cry once. I spent $2500 on an exhaust without batting an eye, and that's when I made 1/3 what I do now. So I'm going to call it peace of mind, which at my age is rare and invaluable.
There's also a less common clamp that's a mix of the two, the constant tension gear clamp: https://www.new-line.com/clamps/bolt...ion-gear-clamp. Can be slipped over the hose before the connector and still tightened with a nut driver or screw driver.
02-21-2023, 05:43 PM
