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Heater Hose Connector

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Old 02-19-2023, 02:54 PM
  #31  
ILM-NC G37S
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Glad you caught it in time.
Old 02-19-2023, 06:12 PM
  #32  
Sea Stories
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Originally Posted by Gio37
Thanks ILM-NC G37S - I replaced the coupling this morning and I'm glad because it just came apart while trying to remove it.
My G has 98K miles.

Anyways, this is the one I ended up using:
Brass fitting
@ILM-NC G37S is the man! He did the same for me. I’m at 98k and the connector broke in half when I tried to get the hose off of it. Everyone would be wise to get that plastic connector out of their car sooner rather than later.

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Old 02-21-2023, 09:18 AM
  #33  
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Just ordered my kit (2 hoses plus connector) today from the eBay seller. Not paying $5 per clamp (need 4) and will just reuse the original ones. Hopefully that wont be a problem. Yes, @ILM-NC G37S is the man, continuously provides solid information to this community.
Old 02-21-2023, 09:49 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by petemo94
Just ordered my kit (2 hoses plus connector) today from the eBay seller.
You're opting to go with plastic? No concerns for future failure? Just curious...

Yes, the clamps are ridiculously overpriced.
Old 02-21-2023, 09:55 AM
  #35  
petemo94
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
You're opting to go with plastic? No concerns for future failure? Just curious...

Yes, the clamps are ridiculously overpriced.
Yea - if it lasted 12 years on the original one, I probably wont have the car after another 12 years. I may just buy the Home Depot version anyways.
Old 02-21-2023, 10:25 AM
  #36  
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I would never trust plastic, but, it's your car/ wallet/ decision so...

Good luck!
Old 02-21-2023, 11:22 AM
  #37  
socketz67
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Originally Posted by Gio37
Thanks ILM-NC G37S - I replaced the coupling this morning and I'm glad because it just came apart while trying to remove it.
My G has 98K miles.
What process did you use to remove the original connector to avoid having pieces of plastic go into the block or heater core? One of the techs I spoke to recommended Hose Pinch Pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...ece-63596.html

Did you drain some coolant first?

I'm a little reluctant to pinch the 10 year old hoses as they could become damaged in the process. I'm at 67K and the hoses and connectors look brand new, but I purchased the Dorman connector and plan to install it soon because even my local mechanic told me that the plastic connector is a problem waiting to happen. Thinking that I will need to don my Antman suite and leverage some Pym particles to reach the size needed to get my hands situated properly on those hoses.

Last edited by socketz67; 02-21-2023 at 11:30 AM.
Old 02-21-2023, 04:05 PM
  #38  
Rocketman37
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Done! Whew!

2012 G 109K miles Dallas Texas area. Replaced connector just this morning used an aluminum replacement and used two(2) new spring clamps, took me several hours but it is done! The OEM plastic one looked OK, but maybe showing signs it was getting brittle very little coolant loss at connection when I took it apart but refilled and burped system Glad it is over. HA!
Old 02-21-2023, 04:11 PM
  #39  
Rochester
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Exactly where is this hose, and is it only the one on the passenger side?

Mike pointed these out to me this afternoon:
Amazon Amazon


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Old 02-21-2023, 04:19 PM
  #40  
rotarymike
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Just to point out - the ad copy states plastic housing, but the one I got was aluminum (and looks 100% like the illustration).
Old 02-21-2023, 04:23 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by socketz67
What process did you use to remove the original connector to avoid having pieces of plastic go into the block or heater core? One of the techs I spoke to recommended Hose Pinch Pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...ece-63596.html

Did you drain some coolant first?

I'm a little reluctant to pinch the 10 year old hoses as they could become damaged in the process. I'm at 67K and the hoses and connectors look brand new, but I purchased the Dorman connector and plan to install it soon because even my local mechanic told me that the plastic connector is a problem waiting to happen. Thinking that I will need to don my Antman suite and leverage some Pym particles to reach the size needed to get my hands situated properly on those hoses.
I drained my coolant completely and changed it. I replaced my lower radiator hose while I was at it (I had just replaced the upper). I used long right-angle needle nose pliers to get the clamps on and off the heater hose. I used vice grips to pinch the heater hose to keep the crumbled pieces of the plastic connector out of the coolling system. My car is a 2009, and the heater hose was very pliable and not at all harmed by the vice grips. Hose pinch pliers would work too.

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Old 02-21-2023, 05:03 PM
  #42  
socketz67
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Originally Posted by Rocketman37
2012 G 109K miles Dallas Texas area. Replaced connector just this morning used an aluminum replacement and used two(2) new spring clamps, took me several hours but it is done! The OEM plastic one looked OK, but maybe showing signs it was getting brittle very little coolant loss at connection when I took it apart but refilled and burped system Glad it is over. HA!
Interesting, so you were able to disconnect the two hoses at the connector without having the plastic connector disintegrate into pieces like the one above Gio37 posted a pic of? Not too much coolant loss either. I'm feeling optimistic again :-)
Old 02-21-2023, 05:09 PM
  #43  
socketz67
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Red anodized plastic Rochester? I saw those on Amazon, but didn't realize they were plastic (assumed aluminum like Mike confirmed above). Went with the Dorman connector because it's tried and proven across other brands as well that decided to separate hard to reach hoses.

I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.

Thanks for the background Sea Stories (Naval reference?). I just recently did a drain and fill (write-up here), replaced upper and lower hoses, deep cleaned the reservoir and surround areas, changed the thermostat - everything went very well, so I kick myself for not changing that connector at the same time as I could have avoided the mess I'm about to make.

Last edited by socketz67; 02-21-2023 at 05:14 PM.
Old 02-21-2023, 05:11 PM
  #44  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by socketz67
Red anodized plastic Rochester? I saw those on Amazon, but didn't realize they were plastic (assumed aluminum). Went with the Dorman connector because it's tried and proven across other brands as well that decided to separate hard to reach hoses.

I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
No, they're aluminum. Read mike's comment. And read the Amazon posting... IDK why the graphic says "plastic" when it isn't. Weird.

The Original Heater Hose Connector is Made of Plastic. Our Improved Heater Hose Connector is Made of Aluminum. The Original Plastic Connector is Easy Break Which Can Cause a Coolant Leak. Our Aluminum Connector is a Great Alternative to the Original Plastic Connector.



Originally Posted by socketz67
I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
Wait, there's a diagram. Hmm, just the one then. "For a warm driving experience" LOL

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Old 02-21-2023, 05:19 PM
  #45  
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That's the connector (92417) on the passenger side. I also saw the other one shown on the driver's side, but there isn't an adapter/connector like the passenger side, just a metal tube near the block which transitions to the firewall area and is met by a hose.

The orientation of that picture seems wrong though, like a reflection of the actual L/R setup.

Last edited by socketz67; 02-21-2023 at 05:32 PM.


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