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I swapped a 2015 Q50 engine into my 2008 G37s 6speed MT
Firstly let me say I was a mustang guy before switching to a G37 in mid 2019 and had only very basic knowledge of the VQ37. I scoured many forums including this one looking for info on what would fit my car. I bought my replacement engine off of eBay and i noticed many postings for later model VQs said something like "fits 2011-2013 G37". This worried me a lot but i knew there were few changes to the engine over the years. I have also had never done an engine swap and after the fact i can say there is nothing to worry about! I didn't take many pictures of the process and I am mainly making this because i know the 2008 specifically has a different ecu file size as well as being the only year that came with a 5AT(that didn't really matter in my case). This isn't meant to be a DIY guide but I wanted to ensure people it can be done and provide a couple of tips/notes along the way. When reviewing other peoples experiences swapping engines I saw some people dropped their subframe and pulled the engine from under the car which is fine and good but I was on maxed out jackstands and didn't want to to take any chances. I went ahead and removed the front bumper, crashbar, radsupport, radiator, headlights, pretty much everything in front of the engine, I also ended up dropping the front swaybar(4bolts).
I kept the hood attached because the plan is to barely lift the engine and pull it straight forward and I didn't want to realign a hood if I don't have to. NOTE: A lot of this may not have been necessary but i would rather do it once then have the engine on the hoist and then have to remove more things. After removing everything in front of the engine I detached the trans from the engine because i have installed the Z1 CSC elimination kit and was not completely satisfied with how my clutch was feeling and wanted to get back inside to remove a shim from the pivot ball in my trans. NOTE: Another reason to remove the trans is that the engine will have lots of wiggle room front to back on the motor mounts which helps with disconnecting everything from the back of the engine. I also recommend taking off the battery cover and brake fluid cover as well as the plastic covers that connect to the windshield and surround the windshield wipers. Doing so will give you a little more room(every millimeter counts here) for disconnecting things from the back of the engine. Once this is done remove the power steering pump and ac compressor. The alternator can come out with the engine but i went ahead and took it off anyway. NOTE: The power steering bracket is different on the Q50 compared to the G37s(2008) so i used the one from my old engine. I then removed throttle bodies and intake plenum. Don't forget there are 2 coolant hoses running into the firewall. I used the intake plenum studs(front and back) to hoist the engine.
Now you can drop in the new engine and reverse the process. One other thing to note is that the header/intake manifold design has changed sometime after 2008 and i reused my factory headers so some of the studs needed to be relocated...
NEW ENGINE EXHAUST STUD LOCATIONS:
OLD ENGINE EXHAUST STUD LOCATIONS:
ALSO SINCE THIS IS AN AUTOMATIC ENGINE GOING INTO A MANUAL CAR THERE WAS SOME SORT OF PRESSED IN STEPDOWN SPACER TO WHERE THE FLYWHEEL MATES TO THE ENGINE THAT NEEDED TO BE REMOVED IN ORDER TO FIT THE PILOT BUSHING!!!
The wiring harness was left in the car during the swap, so was the power steering pump and ac compressor. Let me know if you have any questions about swapping engines in your G i would be happy to help, but i don't know much about the automatics sorry! I also have some more(less useful) pictures of both engines that i can share.
Agree with the rest. The exhaust bolts were a "new" to me.
As for the power steering the G comes with 2 kinds
The Jk02a -08-09/journey/non sport
The Jk01A - 10+ sport models (same as Titan pump)
Great assurance to know. The same should apply to ANY Nissan/Infiniti with a 3.7!
The newer VQ heads have studs in different location but are also tapped to have studs installed in the 08-14 locations. The 15+ cars often make more power which could be contributed to the revised exhaust manifold design. In addition, I believe the exhaust valves changed around this time as well.
Hey everybody I got a 2008 G37S 6mt coupe, recently I got my car tuned from uprev at 320,000kms. Lasted for 2 weeks until i pushed it over 8000 rpms and had a bad sounding knock after that(I didnt know it could rev that high, my fault)
anyways I decided to swap the engine, called a place that parted out cars and they said they had a 2010 available with 158,000kms and came out of a 2010 6mt coupe.
I agreed and took it to a local mechanic to do the swap( just engine swap, I used my same ecu), everything fit, good compression, but they are having the following issue:
car starts but revs abnormally(rpms stutter aggressively and it also fluctuates between 1k to 3k rpms), clutch feels different, getting a code for the crankshaft sensor circuit A.(I went to infiniti and bought another crankshaft oem sensor and still getting the same code).
car is stuck at the shop, put in new MAF sensors and he used a regular scanner to do the relearns he did not do them manually. Also the check engine light comes on after having the car running for over 30 mins or so.
car has z1 cold air intakes, throttle body spacer, muffler delete and high flow cat with secondary delete.
please let me know if I am posting this in the right section.
the shop that sold me the engine says it fits and it's an issue with the mechanic not doing the swap right, the mechanic blames the part shop for sending me the wrong engine
Hey everybody I got a 2008 G37S 6mt coupe, recently I got my car tuned from uprev at 320,000kms. Lasted for 2 weeks until i pushed it over 8000 rpms and had a bad sounding knock after that(I didnt know it could rev that high, my fault)
anyways I decided to swap the engine, called a place that parted out cars and they said they had a 2010 available with 158,000kms and came out of a 2010 6mt coupe.
I agreed and took it to a local mechanic to do the swap( just engine swap, I used my same ecu), everything fit, good compression, but they are having the following issue:
car starts but revs abnormally(rpms stutter aggressively and it also fluctuates between 1k to 3k rpms), clutch feels different, getting a code for the crankshaft sensor circuit A.(I went to infiniti and bought another crankshaft oem sensor and still getting the same code).
car is stuck at the shop, put in new MAF sensors and he used a regular scanner to do the relearns he did not do them manually. Also the check engine light comes on after having the car running for over 30 mins or so.
car has z1 cold air intakes, throttle body spacer, muffler delete and high flow cat with secondary delete.
please let me know if I am posting this in the right section.
the shop that sold me the engine says it fits and it's an issue with the mechanic not doing the swap right, the mechanic blames the part shop for sending me the wrong engine
Working on a swap in my 2009G37X. I bought a donor 2012G37X engine for the swap. Everything is going fine until hit the O2 sensors. The 2011 and up O2 sensors and plugs are different.
Is it possible to cut and splice the plugs from the 2012 O2 Sensors onto the 2009 wiring harness and use the newer O2 sensors that the 2012 use?
Other option would be to try to swap the newer 2012 O2 sensors with the older 2009 sensors from the old engine.
Did you have any issues mounting the transmission? It was hard for me
[QUOTE=What's gets?;4285894]Firstly let me say I was a mustang guy before switching to a G37 in mid 2019 and had only very basic knowledge of the VQ37. I scoured many forums including this one looking for info on what would fit my car. I bought my replacement engine off of eBay and i noticed many postings for later model VQs said something like "fits 2011-2013 G37". This worried me a lot but i knew there were few changes to the engine over the years. I have also had never done an engine swap and after the fact i can say there is nothing to worry about! I didn't take many pictures of the process and I am mainly making this because i know the 2008 specifically has a different ecu file size as well as being the only year that came with a 5AT(that didn't really matter in my case). This isn't meant to be a DIY guide but I wanted to ensure people it can be done and provide a couple of tips/notes along the way. When reviewing other peoples experiences swapping engines I saw some people dropped their subframe and pulled the engine from under the car which is fine and good but I was on maxed out jackstands and didn't want to to take any chances. I went ahead and removed the front bumper, crashbar, radsupport, radiator, headlights, pretty much everything in front of the engine, I also ended up dropping the front swaybar(4bolts).
I kept the hood attached because the plan is to barely lift the engine and pull it straight forward and I didn't want to realign a hood if I don't have to. NOTE: A lot of this may not have been necessary but i would rather do it once then have the engine on the hoist and then have to remove more things. After removing everything in front of the engine I detached the trans from the engine because i have installed the Z1 CSC elimination kit and was not completely satisfied with how my clutch was feeling and wanted to get back inside to remove a shim from the pivot ball in my trans. NOTE: Another reason to remove the trans is that the engine will have lots of wiggle room front to back on the motor mounts which helps with disconnecting everything from the back of the engine. I also recommend taking off the battery cover and brake fluid cover as well as the plastic covers that connect to the windshield and surround the windshield wipers. Doing so will give you a little more room(every millimeter counts here) for disconnecting things from the back of the engine. Once this is done remove the power steering pump and ac compressor. The alternator can come out with the engine but i went ahead and took it off anyway. NOTE: The power steering bracket is different on the Q50 compared to the G37s(2008) so i used the one from my old engine. I then removed throttle bodies and intake plenum. Don't forget there are 2 coolant hoses running into the firewall. I used the intake plenum studs(front and back) to hoist the engine.
Now you can drop in the new engine and reverse the process. One other thing to note is that the header/intake manifold design has changed sometime after 2008 and i reused my factory headers so some of the studs needed to be relocated...
NEW ENGINE EXHAUST STUD LOCATIONS:
OLD ENGINE EXHAUST STUD LOCATIONS:
ALSO SINCE THIS IS AN AUTOMATIC ENGINE GOING INTO A MANUAL CAR THERE WAS SOME SORT OF PRESSED IN STEPDOWN SPACER TO WHERE THE FLYWHEEL MATES TO THE ENGINE THAT NEEDED TO BE REMOVED IN ORDER TO FIT THE PILOT BUSHING!!!
The wiring harness was left in the car during the swap, so was the power steering pump and ac compressor. Let me know if you have any questions about swapping engines in your G i would be happy to help, but i don't know much about the automatics sorry! I also have some more(less useful) pictures of both engines that i can share.
12-03-2020, 04:05 AM
: A lot of this may not have been necessary but i would rather do it once then have the engine on the hoist and then have to remove more things. After removing everything in front of the engine I detached the trans from the engine because i have installed the Z1 CSC elimination kit and was not completely satisfied with how my clutch was feeling and wanted to get back inside to remove a shim from the pivot ball in my trans. NOTE
