Similar to art pipes


read a lot of installation threads on these test pipes

the bolts that u tighten from the top engine side seem to come loose for some people
would it be good to add washer locks on it?

I believe u have to trim screw on drivers side

shoukd I use header wrap on these pipes? Will the wrap reduce the rasp?

Yr suppose to use stock gaskets - should I buy different ones or add an extra gasket
do I use RTV on seals after I’m done?

thanks in advance for the advice - appreciate you 🤙 MAHALO

 

I always add lock washers, you can, or you can just go back after a few heat cycles and check them again. The stock gaskets up top are rings that seal the pipe against the manifold seat. If these have a provision for that, it creates a good seal. Otherwise, I would just get a 3 bolt gasket from the vendor of your choosing and use high temp red RTV gasket maker on either side as insurance. Instructions for that stuff generally have you come back and snug down another 1/4 turn an hour or so after installation.

There is a threaded stud on that driver's side heat shield mounting that will probably contact the helmholtz resonator portion of that pipe, you'll notice it, just cut the stud down before installing.

Everyone's got their opinions on header wrap. So, you'll probably get 1001 opinions on that. In my experience it doesn't really so anything at all for the rasp. I wrapped the high flow cats on mine to keep the heat on the floorboard down. I did it on the test pipes on my VQ 240 for the same reason. In that respect it helps.

 

Appreciate the info!! Do u have art or test pipes too?
after an hour I will retight to make sure it’s snug - I believe 70 pounds torque on the bolts

should I put more rtv later too?

what header wrap would u recommend? I saw some on amazon - people would say watch out when u cut it cause it starts to unravel & becomes hard to wrap tight after

thx for the knowledge brother!

 

I've had both. It'll be awkward trying to apply the correct torque. Honestly, every time I've just tightened the hell out of them. You won't be able to apply more rtv after they're on, just make sure you put a good bead around each side of the gasket. Seat it against the pipe and then fit it up in there.

As far as the header wrap goes, I wouldn't cheap out on it. I use the DEI Titanium stuff. Make sure you get an adequate number of the stainless steel locking wire ties also. It will unravel on the end(s) you cut, that's just how it goes. Just use good sharp scissors and cut clean. Then fold about an inch of the end under itself when you start wrapping and you'll have a clean edge

No problem man, anytime

 

The above is good advice.


​​Wrap won't help with noise but will keep the heat in the pipe.

Split washers tend to deform if overtorqued. Especially cheap stainless ones.
Nylocks and locktight are useless when hot, I'm amazed how often people don't realize this.
Serrated flanged nuts are my favorite locking exhaust hardware. (Often have to special order, so you better know what size and how many) but not necessary.
Anti sieze any threads you might want to disassemble ever.

Pipe wrap advice gleaned from the motorcycle world.
Cheap is fine, don't bother getting a color...
​​​Thin wrap for headers and tight bends. Wide wrap is quicker for straight ish sections.
Paint the pipes with header paint first(one or two coats is fine) 1500* stuff, not BBQ or engine paint. Lots of colors to chose from.
Ditch those metal zipties and use stainless hose clamps. The zip ties are almost impossible to get tight enough, Even with the special pliers.
Don't pre soak wrap in water. Do work in well ventilated area.
​​​Wear long sleeves, gloves, glasses, a face mask. You get it.
Wrap the pipes from back to front, so the overlap doesn't catch the wind. An keep that **** tight as you wrap it.
I sometimes add hose clamps as I go. Not just at the ends.
​​​​​After the final hose clamps are on, soak the wrap with the rest of your header paint. Forget about that silicone spray.
The paint will last years, silly spray only lasts weeks. You're supposed to reapply, reapply, reapply.
You can touch up areas of paint at any time if necessary.
Gonna fume up till it cures. So keep moving till it stops smoking lol.

They make "socks" you can just snap on too.
Similar to a turbo blanket

 

I used DEI titanium on mine with high temp spray. No lock washers, just used what came with it and torqued properly. No issues and the wrap helped dampen (not reduce) my rasp noise down slightly but I suppose that is subjective to the car and it's owner. Make sure you wear gloves and long sleeves or you will be itchy from the fiberglass.