Rybitron

A couple of days ago my clutch went to the floor and wouldn't come back up on its own. I checked the clutch fluid reservoir and it was nearly empty. I refilled the reservoir and it was drivable, but not perfect. 2 days later the clutch went fully limp again and the reservoir was totally empty.

I took it to my mechanic and he said the slave cylinder is bad. Now I can't decide if I should replace the clutch at the same time, because they have to drop and open the transmission anyways. I plan to keep this car for about 1 more year, maybe less. I cant decide if I should risk it and leave the old clutch in or replace it with a new OEM clutch. I called the dealership and a new clutch is about $1240 (parts only), so its kind of a big deal. My car has about 82k miles on it, so it kinda makes sense to replace anyways, but since I'll be getting rid of it I kinda want to save the extra $1240. But i'm going to feel like a huge idiot if I dont replace the clutch, then find out this problem pushed it over the edge and needs to be replaced.
Before this I haven't had any real problems with the clutch itself, I would assume its still in good shape, but who knows?

If I do replace the clutch and plan to sell it in a year, should I stick to an OEM clutch or go with a sporty aftermarket version?

Thanks for any insight!

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Replace the clutch and keep the car for another 2-3 years. Plenty of good aftermarket clutches that don't break the bank. A proper clutch job involves replacement of the flywheel too. I don't believe the stock ones can be machined.

jpowersjr2

iTrader: (1)

Replace it all. You never know what might happen between now and when you get rid of the car. Might be a bit much but here is what I did:
-South Bend Stage 2 Daily Clutch & 17lb Flywheel w/ CMAK, quite disc
also have:
-RJM Performance Clutch Assembly w/ Heavy Duty Clevis End
-RJM Performance Clutch Master Cylinder w/ SS clutch line

Surfnazi

Make sure you clean up any leaked fluid since brake fluid eats paint