Hey all -

I was hearing a noise going over bumps in my 2012 g37x. Took it to a local tire/repair chain, and they're saying $1300 to replace the engine mount, which I believe he said was corroded? Is the $1300 reasonable or out of whack?

After just having put 4 new tires on it, I'm feeling extra stingy, and would like to avoid the cost. Also - any safety concern?


Thanks!

 

Doubt it's a safety concern. Do you get a vibration during idle in Drive or reverse? That's why I changed mine since it was bothering me. I got used oem low mileage engine and trans mount for $150 and another $150 for labor which is pretty cheap. I saw new oem mounts were like $500+ something like that but I seen aftermarket ones on ebay for less than $100, not sure if they are same quality.

 

Just did mine in my garage on the floor. 1 hour. To do both.

 

Would ya be interested in making a short diy? I would like to change mines as well

 

An hour each engine mount? How long for your "teeth chattering" trans mount lol.

 

rock auto has them from $38-$112
I did the passenger side in about 30 min. I used a couple of extensions to loosen it, then you can get it the rest of the way from underneath.

 

I'll be considering robbing the mounts from the coupe in the driveway once I take possession, and throwing some poly mounts int he coupe. Any thoughts on aftermarket mounts? Is it even worth it? Poly would be harder than the rubber/ whatever Infiniti used, but I don't want to go all out and regret my choice.

The ones on my sedan are obviously shot, but I'll be getting rid of it once I take over the coupe. Worth it to swap the mounts? It'll be free parts at that point

 

About an hour for both engine mounts.
Trans mount 5 minutes and easily reversible.

 

Super simple start on passenger side. Remove air intake and header heat shield.
Then disconnect alternator harnesses and wire loom. Your moving this to have room to turn the wrench.
from here you have room to turn either a stubby box 14mm wrench or a 1/4 inch ratchet and 14mm socket. I pulled from top and bottom. If I could do again I'd lower car back to ground level for more leverage to break loose from the top. Pb blaster helps as well. The bolt is only 36ft lbs but hard to get leveage..

Driver side was supposed to be easier but was a little more tricky. The video I watched was a 370z he got a box wrench on the bolt after removing air intake. He was able to do double wrench trick. I had no room. So my solution was a short stubby 1/2 ratchet with flex head and 14mm short socket. From there I broke it loose from the top.

Once the bolts are broke loose support engine with jack and 2×4 to distribute weight. Then remove lower 17mm nuts. Remove both top 14mm nuts.
Jack motor up high enough to remove mounts.
insert new mounts lower engine enough to get 14mm nuts back on top. Slowly guide motor mounts into lower hole. Add 17mm nuts. Red loctite is needed. Reverse steps for air boxes and alternator wire loom.

Done.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks so much!

 

Thank you all so much for the responses.

He must be referring to something else, because they said the bottom of the car needs to be dropped out in order to do the job. I've been to this place many times, and they do have a good reputation, so I don't think they're trying to screw me, but who knows?

 

Doubtful on screwing you. There are many ways to do this job. Fsm would have you drop the subframe.

 

FSM?

also - the other options are presumably not as good?

 

There's many ways to skin a cat.

fsm is factory service manual. Most shops quote that. But that's not always a direct method. Some shops quote that and do a more direct method. They quote that just incase no other option is feasible. If your not handy with a wrench you'll need to pay a shop whatever they want. I always call nissan for quotes then shop around.

 

Use oem style rubber motor mounts poly will last longer but will vibrate more. Bushings fall apart and the grease inside leaks out causing it to vibrate more