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Radiator fan assembly replacement DIY anywhere?

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Old 09-22-2019 | 12:15 AM
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Radiator fan assembly replacement DIY anywhere?

Hello, is there a video anywhere of someone replacing their radiator fan assembly on a g37? I can do it but usually the job goes a lot faster if I see a DIY first so I know what to do instead of lying under the car figuring out what to do.

Thanks very much!
Old 09-22-2019 | 09:29 AM
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I have not seen a DIY but I can tell you that it is super easy to replace the entire fan assembly. For me, 2008 Coupe (Sedans should be the same), took less than 45min. to replace. Key points:

- Remove driver side air box;
- Loosen front edge of plastic undertray just so that it "droops;"
- Unclip the rubber hoses at the bottom of the driver side fan assembly;
- After unbolting from radiator housing, you will tilt the top of the fan ***'y toward the engine and slightly pull up to "unclip" the fan ***'y from the bottom rail;
- Once unclipped, dip the passenger side of the ***'y down toward the ground while sliding the ***"y up and out from the driver side. It is a slim fit but it will come out.

Install is reverse.
Old 09-22-2019 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
I have not seen a DIY but I can tell you that it is super easy to replace the entire fan assembly. For me, 2008 Coupe (Sedans should be the same), took less than 45min. to replace. Key points:

- Remove driver side air box;
- Loosen front edge of plastic undertray just so that it "droops;"
- Unclip the rubber hoses at the bottom of the driver side fan assembly;
- After unbolting from radiator housing, you will tilt the top of the fan ***'y toward the engine and slightly pull up to "unclip" the fan ***'y from the bottom rail;
- Once unclipped, dip the passenger side of the ***'y down toward the ground while sliding the ***"y up and out from the driver side. It is a slim fit but it will come out.

Install is reverse.
Thanks buddy! Sounds easy. I also have a 2008 sport coupe!

I ordered an aftermarket cheap assembly off Amazon because it will get here tomorrow, but I might acquire a used OEM one or OEM-replacement later. I am not sure if I trust the Amazon one to last very long.

Thanks for your help!
Old 09-22-2019 | 11:30 AM
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It should go smooth as butter. Key is removing the D/S airbox and loosening the undertray. That little bit of slack is just enough to let the whole assembly tilt down and slide up/out from the top (hell of a lot easier that doing it from underneath).

Staying tuned.....
Old 09-24-2019 | 09:30 PM
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Back in biz my dudes!

I just installed the new fan assembly and it works like a jiffy! Comes on when it should, turns off when it should, and the engine temps are staying just right!

Thanks for all the help. The part that took the longest was getting those dang wire clips out. What a pain!

Also, the tubes on the driver side, well, I have no tubes. I see where they go, but there are no tubes. What tubes are supposed to go there? I wonder what my car is missing.

Thank you
Old 09-26-2019 | 04:28 PM
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Hello,

About a month ago I noticed my radio rebooting and thought something was wrong with the electrical system. I checked the battery cables and nothing is loose or messed up that I could see. I have a dash cam and little powered sub in the trunk.

It didn't happen again until today on the way to work. I noticed the radio would get quiet for 3 seconds and come on. First I thought the radio broadcast had a problem, but then it happened again, and again, and again, a minute or two apart. Then at a stopped at a light and the whole car actually shuts off for like half a second but the engine just keeps going and boots the system again (dash lights flashed etc.)

I recently put in a new fan assembly with fan control module, but it is some cheap one from rock auto and the fans are roaring a lot of the time.

Could the FCM be shorting something out? What should I check?

Thank you
Old 09-26-2019 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Infinibini
.... the tubes on the driver side, well, I have no tubes. I see where they go, but there are no tubes. What tubes are supposed to go there? I wonder what my car is missing.

Thank you
6MT or 5AT?
The hoses are for the transmission cooling lines (on automatics).
Old 09-26-2019 | 04:39 PM
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With regard to your electrical gremlins, did you check to make sure water is not leaking onto the BCM/ECU? Remember, there is a grommet on the engine firewall (below the battery) that is prone to fail, not to mention the dreaded sunroof drain problem.

Aside from that double check all of your ground connections. I doubt seriously the fan issue is directly related- if anything it might/may have been a symptom of something else.
Old 09-26-2019 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
With regard to your electrical gremlins, did you check to make sure water is not leaking onto the BCM/ECU? Remember, there is a grommet on the engine firewall (below the battery) that is prone to fail, not to mention the dreaded sunroof drain problem.

Aside from that double check all of your ground connections. I doubt seriously the fan issue is directly related- if anything it might/may have been a symptom of something else.
Hello and thank you.

I haven't checked the ECU and didn't know about that! It was sprinkling this morning too... dang, I really REALLY HATE electrical problems!!!!

I will look at the ECU and grounds when I get home, if I make it home. Otherwise I will tow it to the dealer and pay $5000000 to fix it.
Old 09-26-2019 | 04:54 PM
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The ECU and BCM are in the same general area but I think the BCM is more vulnerable to water ingress due to its location.
Old 09-26-2019 | 09:42 PM
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I looked at the wiring on the powered subwoofer before I left work and it was getting a little bit frayed, and maybe one strand of copper might have been able to reach across and short on the other terminal or something. I compressed the strands so they weren't frayed or sticking out and had no restarts or anything weird on the drive home or running errands. I also unplugged my aux power phone charger and USB camera that is hard-wired into the rear-view mirror power lines.

I inspected the main battery ground (to the voltage regulator) and all looks good. I also inspected all the other grounds that I could find and did not see any corrosion or anything, they all looked fine.

When I got home I removed the fuse from the powered sub and disconnected and taped off the power-on lead. I will drive around for a few days and plug things in one by one every few days and see if the problem starts again.

Oh, one more thing, where is the ECU? Is it on the passenger side kick panel? I forgot to check if it looked wet down there.

Thanks for the tips!
Old 09-26-2019 | 10:47 PM
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Sounds like you night have found the culprit... if so easy fix... For reference the ECU is located behind the glove box (you will have to remove it), however at this point I think you are fine there;

The BCM is located behind the passenger side outer kick panel. If anything was wet it would be this guy...and you would know it.

Still, sounds like you are on the right path...
Old 10-07-2019 | 06:46 PM
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Update:

STILL WORKS GOOD!!!!! The subwoofer wiring shorting out was probably the problem.
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