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Auto Transmission Cooling Radiator - New Rad or not?

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Old 09-13-2019 | 10:11 AM
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Spadds76's Avatar
Spadds76
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Exclamation Auto Transmission Cooling Radiator - New Rad or not?

Oh man.

So my cooling fans on the G37x crapped out and resulted in overheating of my car when the a/c was on - not a fun back end of summer!

Anyway, last night I installed the new cooling fan assembly. Took about 45 minutes. Not too bad.

I also did an oil change whilst under the car as it was due.

After I'd put it all back together I noticed a leak on the drivers side lower hose. Investigations showed that the leak is transmission fluid coming from the lower (return) flow hose from the radiator internal coil to the transmission. It looks like the connection / weld was weeping - probably on it's way out and me maneuvering the fans in/out of position probably stressed it and it's failed. I looked a little more (engine running) and the drip turned into a faster flow so I stopped the engine. I'll try show the fitting in a picture.




Questions,
  1. anyone know if this is a fitting (threaded hose tail screwed into the radiator housing) or is it is a welded connection?
  2. If it is welded than I need a new radiator. Prices I've seen so far (CAnada) are crazy - like $1200 - must be made from platinum.
  3. Anyone know if I could just use a double male to male hose tail and jubilee clips to bypass the radiator and just have a continuous loop back to transmission? I suspect not and this would result in over heating and failed transmission. Though there is a cooling radiator for the transmission on the opposite side of the car????

So it sounds like new radiator, AC condenser and replace the whole thing? Empty a/c, drain coolant, plug ATF lines, pull out old and replace.

Any tips on the best places to source a new radiator? I see 1AA Auto have them for about $350 US which is much cheaper plus shipping than canadian items!

Any comments highly appreciated! I'm a bit stuck right now what to do.

Thanks
Old 09-13-2019 | 04:25 PM
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SkysG37
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Yup, it's not a threaded fitting

Nope, can't just loop it

You can bypass it by adding an external trans cooler
Won't need a new radiator that way

If the car overheated, that means you cooked the oil.
You already changed the engine oil...
Add the oil cooler, then change/flush the trans fluid.
If you're not confident doing the flush yourself, take it to the dealer.
Old 09-22-2019 | 04:31 PM
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Spadds76
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Hi thanks for your response.

The car wasn't overheating per se, just getting elevated temperature of which I brought it back down with the internal heating before I changed out the cooling fans.

So I've replaced the radiator which requires disconnections for the auto transmission and for the AC condenser.

It's all back together now.

Hardest parts were taking it to pieces, ceased bolts, sheared bolts. The bottom AC line to the condenser retaining bolt snapped off so I had to saw it with a hacksaw blade to get it off - took about an extra hour of faffing about here!

I reused the existing coolant as it was in great condition - used the top radiator bleed to let the air out, then kept on topping it up afterwards. All fine.

I checked the fans come on and cool on it's own sat in the drive, and a) the thermostat works so I get flow through the rad, and then after a while the rad cooling fans start to come on/off as required whilst ideling.

That is until I turn the AC on. I think all of these comments are based on the AC recharge and I've got a vacuum pump on order to correctly do the procedure, but here's what's happening.

I didn't pull a vacuum on the AC system. I recharged it with 2oz of oil and 19oz of refrigerant. The ac runs ok from cold, but when the engine gets hot the cooling fans cycle on/off (they should run all the time with the AC on). The compressor also cycles on/off. The car then gets high coolant temperatures and doesn't self regulate as it does with the AC off.

I think it's doing this because the AC system is seeing elevated pressures when compressing (but cool air), and then the compressor/fans are stopped. the pressure reduces (air gets warm), and then the compressor/fans start again (air gets cool), and the cycle continues probably until something is broken. so I have stopped the AC.

Anyone clarify I'm right, or not with any comments.
I've ordered a vacuum pump to remove all moisture and will recharge correctly next time.
Also how much oil is required in the system? After I initially evacuated the circuit do you loose the lube oil???? I can't find this info any where?

Thanks
Adam
Old 09-22-2019 | 04:49 PM
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ILM-NC G37S
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You must pull a vacuum in the AC system before charging with refrigerant. The AC system will never run correctly otherwise. You can put 100lbs. of refrigerant in it and it will never cool. Sadly (and not to come off as a wiseass) but you wasted the refrigerant you already charged into the system.

Once you get the vacuum pump, pull her down for a few hours to allow any excess moisture to burn off. Then, shut the valve and let it sit for a while to ensure she is holding vacuum. Recharge as normal and you should be good to go.

The system only calls for 5.03oz. of oil. Unless you lost all of that while the system was open to atmosphere I think you should be good on oil as most will stay in the system.

Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 09-22-2019 at 04:56 PM.
Old 09-22-2019 | 05:31 PM
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Thanks very much for your quick response, most appreciated.

I added the charge to the system as kind of a sacrificial fill to try prevent any further moisture ingress to the internal components and it was only $15 wasted I guess... although I've read that the new 12a products don't form acidic products when in contact with atmosphere (moisture) like the old 12A 134A products did.....

anyways once I get the vac pump I'll do as you recommend to remove moisture and recharge the system.

I found the spec/vol for the PAG 46 lube for the compressor, but again, as you say I can't see how it will have dissipated or been lost when I first evacuated the system unless it's lost with the refrigerant vapours... It's only $20 off amazon so I 'll do a little more reading on this item - it's the only risk item now as I don't know how much is in the system and I'm guessing there's no drain / sump plug to change/remove this!??

https://www.4s.com/media/5421/four-s...city-guide.pdf

Thanks

I'll keep you posted on progress.
Old 09-22-2019 | 05:34 PM
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Found this for compressor oil changing......... I can imagine trying it and plugs stripping and a new compressor being needed..... just my luck!

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