So im thinking about replacing my radiator fans (keeping stock radiator for now).

Figure if im going to replace them then i may as well upgrade. Any suggestions for upgraded fans that can bolt up in the stock locations without any modifying needed for fitment? Im hoping for a direct Remove and Replace.

 

OEM should be just fine. Maybe needed if you're running long track days with forced induction. SPAL fans are an option but not a bolt on solution. I don't think there is a bolt on solution available. I would think you'd be better off upgrading the radiator, radiator cap, silicone hoses, etc.

Subscribed to see what other members have to say.

A couple good reads:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...-radiator.html
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...mishimoto.html

 

Oh man i didnt know that mishimotos werent that great quality , thanks for those links. I just figure upgrade when a stock unit is being replaced but maybe ill just get a stock fan shroud/fans and go with csf rad. Thanks.

 

Better read up CSF radiators, too.

 

The stock cooling system on the G37 is very good. Are you overheating?

 

Im running about 20 degrees hotter on oil temp and 15 to 20 on coolant on normal non spirited driving. Im trying to solve this. (*All* fluids are fresh in the car).
Basically im getting hotter temps than i see running a lap at the track when im driving like a granny now. Its worrying me.

Tested relay and it works, bottom rad hose gets hot eventually so i assume thermostat is okay.
I bought ect sensor (have no idea how im going to get back there to switch it out yet though but thats planned to go in).

My driver side fan is kinda squeaky when i give her spin. I could spray some silicone on it maybe... but im trying to cover all angles right now. I do like to occasionally run laps at the track so sufficient cooling is important to me

 

Add bottle of purple ice to rad fluid when you change around 100k or now if you recently changed, just suction out via rad cap when cool same amount

 

Half-a-dozen track events and my temp gauge hardly moves, even with an oil cooler and external trans fluid cooler in front of the radiator. Granted, the ECU controls the gauge but it never felt the need to alarm me.

 

Trade Gs, Slart?

 

To me it makes sense the car runs cooler at the track... High engine RPM means the water pump is spinning faster WITH a lot of air flow through the rad and over the engine.

I have data logged my ECT while driving on the street and it always drops when I find the room to shift at redline.

Can you share the actual temps?

 

Here you go.

July ( *hot weather* when car had no issues)

Continued ^

Current ( cold weather out +similar driving as up there )

(Current)Continued^

 

Ive hit 232f oil and 228 coolant temps without driving very hard. Id like to tackle this before it gets worse. I know these arent catastrophic temps but its a change for sure and one id like to solve.

 

I really don't think your car has an issue. My 11 G37 Sport sedan has seen oil temps at 104C/223F and coolant at 102C/216F when being driven on the street having a little fun. High engine RPM will heat up the oil VERY quickly. Also don't stress over a few degree of temperature. The temperature sensors used (negative temperature co-efficient thermistors) have an accuracy of about +/- 2-3 degrees.

What mods do you have? Is the large "belly pan" (under the front of the car) still bolted on?

 

Only a lightweight flywheel and stage2 clutch. No exhaust, no intake, nothing.

A little backround: Got the car in november 2018 and i wanted everything in order before upgrading. 232 oil temp on 3200 rpm shifting, non spirited driving was alarming to me as i normally sit between 212fand 220f when redlining and having a ball. This started a few days after the track where i only did a few laps with time to let my brakes and engine cool in between. Got lazy and had infiniti do my coolant flush for me (and a software update they claim only addressed premature engine lights on cars) and car immediately felt like i lost low end power and ran a bit hot which now got worse.

Car 2010 97k kms (55k miles?)
I did purp the system again this week to make sure no air pockets existed.

 

Yes on the belly pan*