Vibration in Drive (D) when at a stop. Also, idle in Drive (D)?
#136
I noticed it shortly after I bought my car as I had a periodic stumble at idle that was resolved by cleaning the TBs, MAFs and performing a relearn.
My hope with the poll is to bring awareness and get A/T owners to see if they have the same issue as it's not really apparent unless you're looking for it.
-Eric
#137
The graphs are made by a Mac program called "plot". You can use any "strip chart" or graphing program.
Most graphing programs will require the #Start time line to be deleted - it confuses them.
Generally it is better to look at fewer PIDs, resulting in more samples from each one.
I would focus on:
• Engine RPM
• Vehicle speed
• Calculated load value (estimates % of peak engine torque)
• Control module voltage (allow us to check alternator load)
• Absolute load value (engine load based on MAF air flow)
• Absolute throttle position & Absolute Throttle position B (bank1 / bank2)
• Short term fuel trim / long tern fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
• O2 sensor lambda (Bank 1, Sensor 1) and (Bank 2, Sensor 1) (under light to mid engine load should be around 1.0, which equals about 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio)
and optionally:
• Evap system vapor pressure (this will increase when the charcoal canister is being purged and can change the fuel trims and idle slightly)
My hope is that there will be a correlation between the reported engine load, absolute throttle position and engine RPM.
However, even if we do see that, we might not be able to determine what is increasing the engine load...
BUT you don't know until you look.
PS I don't have time now to look at your latest CSV log, I need to get back to work.
Most graphing programs will require the #Start time line to be deleted - it confuses them.
Generally it is better to look at fewer PIDs, resulting in more samples from each one.
I would focus on:
• Engine RPM
• Vehicle speed
• Calculated load value (estimates % of peak engine torque)
• Control module voltage (allow us to check alternator load)
• Absolute load value (engine load based on MAF air flow)
• Absolute throttle position & Absolute Throttle position B (bank1 / bank2)
• Short term fuel trim / long tern fuel trim for bank 1 and bank 2
• O2 sensor lambda (Bank 1, Sensor 1) and (Bank 2, Sensor 1) (under light to mid engine load should be around 1.0, which equals about 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio)
and optionally:
• Evap system vapor pressure (this will increase when the charcoal canister is being purged and can change the fuel trims and idle slightly)
My hope is that there will be a correlation between the reported engine load, absolute throttle position and engine RPM.
However, even if we do see that, we might not be able to determine what is increasing the engine load...
BUT you don't know until you look.
PS I don't have time now to look at your latest CSV log, I need to get back to work.
Both logs have all vehicle speeds >0 removed for the snips below and are included with the CSV. Both logs are started with the ignition on but engine off, engine is started with log running. Both logs have me cycling from Drive to N/R/P at least once at the end of the log - unfortunately I can't capture the gear.
First log, from 9:19am, is with the car fairly warm and making a short trip (from convenience store to home) of about 5 minutes - idle was around 500 in Drive.
Second log starting around 11:24. Vehicle sat in the garage for about 2 hours before this trip. Before the stop at 11:28, I had the car in manual mode and was holding gears, i.e. "spirited" but only for a few minutes, and once I noticed the idle was normal I turned off climate control and radio. From around 11:28 - 11:34 (the rest of the trip) there weren't any additional loads on the vehicle - and same as always cycled through R/N/D/N/R/P at the end (backed into space) and the idle remained fairly constant in Drive.
#138
Same. Bought in ‘15 with 17.5 k miles. Has had an intermittent low idle in “D” the entire time I’ve owned it. Not rough, just low.
The following users liked this post:
llebcire (10-31-2019)
#139
UPDATE:
It has been one week and 3 days (10 days total) since getting the idle adjustment. So far, I have not had any issues. Idle stays consistent and I get no fluctuations. In fact, I am at the point now where I don't even thing about it anymore.
#141
Question, you know how sometimes our idle is at normal range even without your adjustment. With your adjustment to 700rpm, is your idle too high sometimes? As when it used to be normal, now it is up too high in some situations?
So far, I get no instances where the idle is too high (even when putting the car in D and driving from a cold start-up). Adjusting the idle to 700 seems to have leveled-out the fluctuations that I (we) have been experiencing when the idle is set at 650. To be perfectly honest, I feel as though 700 is the idle speed that should have been set from the factory. The car feels normal at this setting, especially when I compare it to other similar V-6 engines from other vehicles I have owned where low idle was never an concern.
Also, is your RPM the same no matter if you are in Drive, Park, Neutral, or Reverse or is P, N, R still higher than D?
So far, yes. I will post a video showing this. I no longer get the "drop" when selecting D.
Lastly, any other improvements or negatives in other situations, other than idle, with this adjustment?
So far, I get no instances where the idle is too high (even when putting the car in D and driving from a cold start-up). Adjusting the idle to 700 seems to have leveled-out the fluctuations that I (we) have been experiencing when the idle is set at 650. To be perfectly honest, I feel as though 700 is the idle speed that should have been set from the factory. The car feels normal at this setting, especially when I compare it to other similar V-6 engines from other vehicles I have owned where low idle was never an concern.
Also, is your RPM the same no matter if you are in Drive, Park, Neutral, or Reverse or is P, N, R still higher than D?
So far, yes. I will post a video showing this. I no longer get the "drop" when selecting D.
Lastly, any other improvements or negatives in other situations, other than idle, with this adjustment?
#142
#143
I know Jsbach1685 got his idle adjusted to 700rpm. I would like to get it adjusted to 675rpm as I do not want to get it adjusted to the max of the 650 +/- 50 rpm. Will I get the benefit like Jsbach1685 by adjusting it up to 675 instead of 700?
Also, what specifically should I ask to get done? I ask as I just spoke to my Nissan dealer where I get my service done and explained what I am looking for and he said that would be an "idle relearn" I then informed him that it was not as I already did an idle relearn. This would be to actually go into the Consult and change the idle to 675. He said he will speak with the main service technician on Monday. What exactly should I tell the service technician that I want done?
Also, what specifically should I ask to get done? I ask as I just spoke to my Nissan dealer where I get my service done and explained what I am looking for and he said that would be an "idle relearn" I then informed him that it was not as I already did an idle relearn. This would be to actually go into the Consult and change the idle to 675. He said he will speak with the main service technician on Monday. What exactly should I tell the service technician that I want done?
So, I am not sure how to want to tackle this, but I would start off by telling them you want the idle checked and that you want to know what the number is reading off the CONSULT. When they tell you the number, then explain the situation and that you have had everything else checked on the car (including idle relearn, etc). I told my adviser, and the technician, that I had done TB cleaning, installed new air filters, did an idle relearn and checked out all other systems and everything was fine. I then advised them of the issue in that when I'm in D and at a stop, I get excessive vibration in coming from my seat. I advised it is because the idle is too low and told them to adjust the idle to 700. If you want to try 675 that is fine, but take it for a test drive first and make sure it's high enough to eliminate the vibration. I also advised everything involved at the dealer that what I am asking for is totally within the norms of the service manual and per he idle specifications.
Also, this adjustment CAN be done at any Nissan dealer. Any dealer that is telling you otherwise is either lying to your face. Or, if they are that ignorant and really have no idea, then I wouldn't want my car serviced there in the first place.
Also, as an update... the idle is still spot-on at 700 with no vibrations and no issues.
#144
I just got caught up on this thread over the last month, fantastic to hear about JSBach1685's progress....I suspected the low idle might an issue a while back and was looking into it myself (also b/c I have an 07 with the ECU Idle reprogram issue) and dealers tend to be "uncooperative" with stuff like this at most places in my area...anyone who has access to the Consult III can adjust the parameter even if its a Nissan shop. period. whether they want to get into it is another thing and some of them just give the runaround and want to stick to work that they know is easy to do for sure and has high book time rates (/rant)...
Anyways, when I first wanted to look at the software adjustment of the idle earlier in the year I reached out to the NDS app developers b/c they have the idle adjustment functionality built into the the full version of the APP for the DE engines (i.e the currently fully released version) but they only had an unavailable beta version out for the VHR/HR engines (i.e our engines)...the beta was out over year ago (its since been taken down) and they said something about that they will announce it when its ready but implied that the development is stalled....since this thread has some traction and there is evidence that this is solution, maybe if enough of you guys reach out they will get back on releasing the app or an update to the lite version that includes this one additional function since its already developed for the DE app....either way I'd rather pay to get their app and have a potential resource in the future than spend time looking for a cooperative dealer and pay more for a single dealer consult adjustment.
Anyways, when I first wanted to look at the software adjustment of the idle earlier in the year I reached out to the NDS app developers b/c they have the idle adjustment functionality built into the the full version of the APP for the DE engines (i.e the currently fully released version) but they only had an unavailable beta version out for the VHR/HR engines (i.e our engines)...the beta was out over year ago (its since been taken down) and they said something about that they will announce it when its ready but implied that the development is stalled....since this thread has some traction and there is evidence that this is solution, maybe if enough of you guys reach out they will get back on releasing the app or an update to the lite version that includes this one additional function since its already developed for the DE app....either way I'd rather pay to get their app and have a potential resource in the future than spend time looking for a cooperative dealer and pay more for a single dealer consult adjustment.
The following users liked this post:
llebcire (11-12-2019)
#145
Sounds like you found a technician that knows what he’s doing. Keep us posted on your results. It’s been just over a month now since my idle adjustment and all is still good. No changes or deviations.
Last edited by Jsbach1685; 11-25-2019 at 08:39 PM.
#146
Does your car pop into Drive when you go into gear?
I spoke to the tech and he scared me. He said he will do what I want but he does not advice it. As it will be very harsh popping into gear when going into drive (D). He is not sure I will like the results.
The service manual does say 650 +/-50 in park and neutral. It does not say drive. Maybe in drive it is supposed to be lower than 650. As when I initially said what the RPM was in park, reverse, and neutral AND THEN said what it went to in drive. He said right away "normal."
Edit, Note Added: After thinking this over, I called Nissan back and informed them to just increase it to 650 RPM. Initially I told them to increase to 675-680
Edit Note part ll:
I got a call back from Nissan. Service advisor informed tech that I wanted it at 650rpm, service advisor set it already to 668rpm, he stated no banging occured when placing it in gear.
Hopefully 668RPM will be fine to get rid of the shake and provide no negative affect.
I spoke to the tech and he scared me. He said he will do what I want but he does not advice it. As it will be very harsh popping into gear when going into drive (D). He is not sure I will like the results.
The service manual does say 650 +/-50 in park and neutral. It does not say drive. Maybe in drive it is supposed to be lower than 650. As when I initially said what the RPM was in park, reverse, and neutral AND THEN said what it went to in drive. He said right away "normal."
Edit, Note Added: After thinking this over, I called Nissan back and informed them to just increase it to 650 RPM. Initially I told them to increase to 675-680
Edit Note part ll:
I got a call back from Nissan. Service advisor informed tech that I wanted it at 650rpm, service advisor set it already to 668rpm, he stated no banging occured when placing it in gear.
Hopefully 668RPM will be fine to get rid of the shake and provide no negative affect.
No, I get no popping or banging of any kind whatsoever. There should not be any issues since the increase is still within spec. Idle is set when in Park. I took a video of the tach when selecting different gears, but I cannot get it to upload. Does anyone know the max file size we can attach?
#147
No, I get no popping or banging of any kind whatsoever. There should not be any issues since the increase is still within spec. Idle is set when in Park. I took a video of the tach when selecting different gears, but I cannot get it to upload. Does anyone know the max file size we can attach?
-Eric
#148
Does your car pop into Drive when you go into gear?
I spoke to the tech and he scared me. He said he will do what I want but he does not advice it. As it will be very harsh popping into gear when going into drive (D). He is not sure I will like the results.
The service manual does say 650 +/-50 in park and neutral. It does not say drive. Maybe in drive it is supposed to be lower than 650. As when I initially said what the RPM was in park, reverse, and neutral AND THEN said what it went to in drive. He said right away "normal."
Edit, Note Added: After thinking this over, I called Nissan back and informed them to just increase it to 650 RPM. Initially I told them to increase to 675-680
Edit Note part ll:
I got a call back from Nissan. Service advisor informed tech that I wanted it at 650rpm, service advisor set it already to 668rpm, he stated no banging occured when placing it in gear.
Hopefully 668RPM will be fine to get rid of the shake and provide no negative affect.
I spoke to the tech and he scared me. He said he will do what I want but he does not advice it. As it will be very harsh popping into gear when going into drive (D). He is not sure I will like the results.
The service manual does say 650 +/-50 in park and neutral. It does not say drive. Maybe in drive it is supposed to be lower than 650. As when I initially said what the RPM was in park, reverse, and neutral AND THEN said what it went to in drive. He said right away "normal."
Edit, Note Added: After thinking this over, I called Nissan back and informed them to just increase it to 650 RPM. Initially I told them to increase to 675-680
Edit Note part ll:
I got a call back from Nissan. Service advisor informed tech that I wanted it at 650rpm, service advisor set it already to 668rpm, he stated no banging occured when placing it in gear.
Hopefully 668RPM will be fine to get rid of the shake and provide no negative affect.
How's it going? Did the bump to 668rpm remove the vibration? Thoughts/impressions?
#149
Ok, I drove it 3 days now. I would say 90% improvement at this time when idled. Does not have the vibration when going from Park to Reverse or Park to Drive. Idle while in Drive is also much smoother.
HOWEVER, there is sometimes a pop going from 1st to 2nd while going slowly (going slowly, you press the gas and car doesn't move then "pop", it jerks forward and moves fine in the other gears). If this continues I will go back, and take back down the RPM as I don't want this pop in gear either. Jsbach1685 you sure you do not have this?
*I my also had my transmission flushed and refilled at Nissan at the same time. Maybe they did not do that correctly, which is causing this issue
HOWEVER, there is sometimes a pop going from 1st to 2nd while going slowly (going slowly, you press the gas and car doesn't move then "pop", it jerks forward and moves fine in the other gears). If this continues I will go back, and take back down the RPM as I don't want this pop in gear either. Jsbach1685 you sure you do not have this?
*I my also had my transmission flushed and refilled at Nissan at the same time. Maybe they did not do that correctly, which is causing this issue
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. I was on vacation last week (cruise) and I had no cell service of any kind. Regarding the pop or jerk, I get no such issues. Thus far, I have not had any issue since having the idle adjusted. Can you post a quick video of what you are experiencing?
#150
Went to Infiniti of Nashua (Kristin MacNeil) and had them do this idle change while I had them replace my right door actuator under my Elite CPO Wrap
Unlike some of the others here, I have an aftermarket setup: ISR Test Pipes, Vibrant 1790 Resonators, and Tanabe Axle-Back, which would exaggerate the symptoms of the dropping idle to 500RPM.
They first told me that everything seems to be in spec, but after I expressed it should be not be dropping outside of the range, they were willing to try the Work Support > Target Idle Adj Method that was highlighted here (off topic, they let you text the advisors so it was easier to show pictures).
The technician kept getting locked out (though they also gave me a battery reading of 700V, so I think the tech had an equipment glitch that day, but they did at least eventually select 650RPM and it's 80% better. It still drops slightly (maybe 625RPM after cold start without checking OBD), but stays within the range unlike before. After it warms up, the idle is pretty stable at 650. Still some vibration, but it's 80% better. Now, the tech may have forgotten to reconnect my keyless entry button while they fixed the door, so I'll have to come back Monday, and I'll use that opportunity to say that since they didn't reach my target RPM, they can use the day to try that again (especially for the $150 diag fee I paid...)
UPDATE 2/7/2020: They did a readjustment (allegedly ~680 in drive and 713 in park); works great!
Unlike some of the others here, I have an aftermarket setup: ISR Test Pipes, Vibrant 1790 Resonators, and Tanabe Axle-Back, which would exaggerate the symptoms of the dropping idle to 500RPM.
They first told me that everything seems to be in spec, but after I expressed it should be not be dropping outside of the range, they were willing to try the Work Support > Target Idle Adj Method that was highlighted here (off topic, they let you text the advisors so it was easier to show pictures).
The technician kept getting locked out (though they also gave me a battery reading of 700V, so I think the tech had an equipment glitch that day, but they did at least eventually select 650RPM and it's 80% better. It still drops slightly (maybe 625RPM after cold start without checking OBD), but stays within the range unlike before. After it warms up, the idle is pretty stable at 650. Still some vibration, but it's 80% better. Now, the tech may have forgotten to reconnect my keyless entry button while they fixed the door, so I'll have to come back Monday, and I'll use that opportunity to say that since they didn't reach my target RPM, they can use the day to try that again (especially for the $150 diag fee I paid...)
UPDATE 2/7/2020: They did a readjustment (allegedly ~680 in drive and 713 in park); works great!
Last edited by Carboy37; 02-07-2020 at 03:22 PM.