• First of all I want to give kudos for this site - excellent content
• Secondly I want to commend everyone that takes the time to document, snap pictures, respond to questions etc... your input is greatly appreciated
• Based on all this great work I felt obligated to add some insight to my experience with the dreaded P0524 and P0021 codes and my fix
• Two ways to confirm if you have the dreaded galley gasket failure
  1. Best Option - Check oil pressure (after confirming you are not low on oil or find signs of oil change neglect) at the Oil Pressure Sending Unit
  2. Drop Oil Pan and look for gasket remnants (not 100% conclusive)
• My case the oil pressure at idle was 5.5psi at 80C oil temperature (temperature is critical when checking as it continues to drop as it warms) which was well under the 14 psi or greater spec. When I replaced the galley gaskets my new pressure under the same conditions was 26.5 psi. I did later find a small portion of gasket in the oil pan (gasket was from the lower end of the pistol galley gasket - seems like a common failure point).
• No need to pull the front end clip from the car, I was able to do all my work with everything attached in front except the dual fan assembly (minus of course everything attached to the timing cover).
• I recommend having an Oxy Acetylene torch available for removing he crank pulley. Be careful with the amount of heat because you can damage the rubber dampener in the crank pulley.
• I recommend having a RTV gasket separator for removing timing cover and gasket. I have not tried other options like heating the RTV to help loosen it so this may be a good option as well
• If you have a Scan tool that can store data I would monitor and store 4 PIDs - INT/V SOL (B1), INT/V SOL (B2), INT/V TIM (B1), INT/V TIM (B2). I would store this data prior to a fix so you compare to data collected after your fix.
• My case the galley gasket replacement alone did not fix my issue, I also had a Bank 2 Intake Solenoid that was "weak" and it became evident in comparing before and after scan data
• The Bank 1 and Bank 2 PIDS that I listed should follow each other very closely and if not, as was my case prior to replacing the Bank 2 solenoid, you most likely have a Solenoid issue. However if you have doing you homework there are other items that can fail like the Cam and Crank sensors, oil blockage issues, etc.. so I am only speaking to a solenoid problem here.
• Another option for identifying a faulty solenoid is to pull both solenoids out and compare how they actuate when applying 12 volts ( I used my Power Probe).
• In my case both solenoids actuated (moved the plunger) but the Bank 2 solenoid was notably "weaker" or "sluggish" as compared to the bank 1 solenoid when 12 volts was applied. I did try cleaning out the bank 2 solenoid but I could not make it actuate better. A new Hitachi solenoid from Rock Auto did fix the issue so I believe you may be able to identify a faulty solenoid with this test.
• Lastly I want to emphasize a major point: The oil pressure problem was fixed with the new galley gaskets as confirmed by the 26.5 psi reading at idle however even after clearing the codes from the computer memory both the P0021 and the P0524 returned. The P0021 made sense based on my 12 volt test and the scan data but the P0524 did not based off the oil pressure data being well above spec. So just a warning don't be fooled by the P0524 it can be misleading. When in doubt about a possible oil pressure problem hook up the gage and get some readings.
• Sorry if this a bit long winded but my hope here is that there is some information here that will help others like the postings that helped me.

 

I have the same issue however I replaced my bank 2 solenoid FIRST and still got the codes. I then did the galley gasket. Still get the codes. I might replace the B2 solenoid again or just get both L&R units. I should test the solenoid speeds with 12v first. I did the pressure test at 80deg C and was low at idle and good at 2000 prior to gasket replacement. So pissed.

 

You get any other codes with it? Like a p0300 or a p0524?
I’m on the same boat as you, I get three codes even after replacing the gaskets, solenoids, running a pressure test. Mine is 12-14psi@idle and roughly 44 at 2k rpm after the gaskets have been replaced. I replaced both solenoids twice with Hitachi’s brand and only bank two keeps bugging and I keep getting the three codes.

Question though, do you hear any type of rattle when accelerating from a dead stop or prior to getting the p0021 code and the engine goes limp?
I’m in the midsts of swapping my cam phasers because I feel like at this point it couldn’t be anything else.
Let me know if you figure it out bro

 

Yeah, I do!! I am now getting a P0300 and a horrible miss about three days into driving it. I also get 0021 AND 0524 WTF is all this?!?!! My GG r&R didn't go so well. My cams moved a lot and I had to retime based off of the crank, I didn't move the #1 cyl and check to see the TDC but I didn't need to but should have. I also bought 6 gaskets that go to the phasers and could only find 5 so I had to reuse one and after cleaning up found the 6th! Taking the car to someone who can diag better with electronics today. I do not think I am getting the rattle you are, not sure.

"Let me know if you figure it out bro" - also.

 

I'm going to join in on this as also have the codes. Going to do a pressure test first.

 

Bro after having almost 6 months trying to figure it out and investing a hefty penny, these are some of the things I’ve ruled out. Btw my car is an 08 coupe 6MT w 98k miles on the engine.

It all started because i do have a heavy foot. I was doing some late night flyby’s on the queens express way when my car suddenly went into limp mode and shortly after, my catalytic converter exploded LOL. So I had the P0300, P0021, and P0524, with the P0420 from the cat. After reading hours on forums it said it was the gallery gaskets for the three codes and the cat is simple right.. Easy day, I bought the gaskets from Z1, the timing cover kit they have, and got the gaskets swapped, the new VVT cam o rings, etc. (I did the work myself). I started the car and the issue was still there, as if I had fixed nothing. I still had the bank 2 solenoid code p0021, the low oil press p0524 and the random misfire p0300.
Let me know if you see or have any of these symptoms.

-the car hesitated to accelerate when you load the pedal past 70%
-the car works fine/won’t throw codes while the engine is cold.
-the car idles fine, you can rev it hood when parked or in neutral. It doesn’t appear to have any timing issues, idles at 600-700 rpm.

i initially thought it was my gallery gaskets that I installed incorrect but the oil pressure was at 12-14psi @ 600 rpm and 43-47 psi at 2000 rpm. For my case, once the car warms up I noticed I hear a bad rattle in my engine when I accelerate from a dead stop. Like this guy has


it will rattle crazy like this for me and once the three codes appear again, it goes into limp and doesn’t do it anymore.


i firmly believe that if you swap out the gasket AND the issue persists, it has to be the cam phaser on the car.
The cam phasers adjust the timing on the VVT system depending on how you accelerate the vehicle. The pressure of the oil travels through the galleries into the solenoids and then into the phasers. Let’s say, the gallery gasket failed or solenoid started failing, and the required oil to adjust the phaser wasn’t there. It could very possibly be that the phaser overheated and essentially got stuck in the advanced or retarded state. This could very well explain the P0300 general misfire because the car isn’t timing the way it should and the ECU has no idea why. Without the Cam phaser adjusting correctly, the timing will be off and it can cause a random misfire. You can take apart the timing covers and it could seem like it’s in the correct spot, but without seeing the angle of degree with a scanner, it could also just be stuck in the 0° position. My engine might rattle like crazy because In my case, the P0021/0524/0300 started because my car actually snagged the solenoid plug on bank 2. The cables were stripped and touching and that must’ve sent the solenoid haywire while i was hitting higher rpms. This could explain the loud rattle for me. I’m swapping out my cam phasers out this week and I’ll update you guys to see if that solves it.
But I’ve done the oil pressure test, I’ve swapped both solenoids, when I had the p0021 after the gallery swap, I swapped solenoids from the bank 1 to the bank 2, bank 2 continued the same so it wasn’t the solenoid. I did a voltage test on the bank 2 solenoid, good voltage. I swapped the oil twice with the filter, no dice.

ill keep you guys updated and hopefully I can help y’all save time I wasted trying to figure this out!

 

bro if you do it yourself, BIG ADVICE!!!
be very careful when putting the gauge on or the pressure switch back on. I overtightened mine on accident (I swear it didn’t even feel like it was tightened at all) and BROKE the spot where the switch goes in so now my upper oil pan is trash and new ones go for $500 plus having to remove the entire subframe to drop it. Not worth the mistake lol

 

It may have been cracked from removal?

 

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm not the only one in this boat any more. Nandosan this is the same exact noise and sadly I've been living with this for more than what I'm happy to admit.
I drive over 3k all the time. I did my Gallery's 30k ago. This happened after an oil change and have been stuck on this since.

I've done about 5 changes since, always opening my oil filter, always have had a bit of metal to the oil but nothing crazy, this past one I notices bit's of RTV which make's me think this is from the bit RTV I put of the Gallery gasket.
She drove better after that oil change but only until oil warmed up and then rattle.

I've dominated the rev range I need to stay away from in order to avoid the p0021 however unlike many I do not get a p0300 or the p0524

Keep me updated with how it goes for you. I'm in the process of putting together a picture compilation list of what the phaser rings should look like and ring TDC to teeth orientation to determine if the ring has moved or it's the phaser internally.

 

Based off the info I've done only the FORD 3.5 newer chain driven engines make the similar noise and their issue is VTC phaser.

 

That is a lot of the same I was going to try but after reading this I held off taking it to an Indy shop.
I do not have exactly the same issue with the rattle. I get a bad random misfire P0300 at all times now, cold/hot. I got this after ~100mi AFTER the GG R&R. Both my cams jumped while releasing tension for GG R&R. I marked the crank (and cams) and it didn't jump and it took me 3 attempts to get both "right" or so I think. Do you think you had a problem with the cams jumping time and now that is the issue?
Before the 0300, when cold and just after the R&R, not having the P0300 or the brick wall at 3500, it accelerates a little better at 3500 when the VVT kicks in. When warming up it will throw the codes as pending not stored codes. Then when I hit 3500 when hot it hits the wall and the codes are stored and CEL comes on.

What I don't understand is the recurrence of the 0524 and 0021...?

 

@BULL do you get 0300?

 

I dont however I'm flashed with Uprev and noticed that for the past 2 years I've not seen a p0300 which is one of the fastest code to pop.

 

This sounds very likely as well since one tooth off timing could make the car idle fine but degrade the performance while driving drastically. That could also explain the p0300 since even one tooth can change the timing as well. In my specific case, I had p0300 PRIOR to doing the gallery gasket or even touching my engine. When I purchased my vehicle, it had service records by Infiniti its entire lifetime so I highly doubt it would’ve jumped a tooth but it does have 98k miles on it. In my previous experience with other cars I never had a timing chain go bad prior to 150k miles though but I also never had a DOHC car before this either.

im going to be tackling the VVT system tomorrow and I’ll take a lot of pics and post it on here for you guys to see. I’m leaning more towards the cam phaser given @BULL’s comment regarding ford’s 3.5 cam rattle. Mine sounds just like that and that gives me Cam Phaser faults. Sometimes a cam can go bad in a certain position where you won’t hear a rattle but can still cause timing issues. That could also explain your situation with the recurring p0021 and p0524. The oil is reaching the solenoid but the cam phaser might be SOL and not moving and the ECU might just think that because the cam isn’t adjusting, it’s not getting oil. So it could throw the 0021. Typically a 0021 is accompanied by a 0524 since no oil could mean no pressure and the ECU throws both as a precaution.. maybe?
you’ve given me an itch about the timing chain though and maybe a weak tensioner or possibly a stretched chain.. lol I’m debating swapping the timing chains out now while I’m in there since it’s not like the kits on Z1 go for like $500 with shipping or anything right.

 

Once cold and moving 3500+ it's great! I am tempted to by OEM Hitachi VVT solenoid because I cheaped out and got a $40 one from parts geek seeing as how I have seen a few posts they say something about ohms and using only OEM. "SOMETIMES" that matters. Did you or @BULL use OE or AM for your VVT solennoids?