i bought Hitachi ones, I didn’t wanna skimp out on that for the sake of eliminating all possibilities

 

Im terrible when it comes to replacement, I have only replaced with used units after I clean them with my ultrasonic cleaner. Never had an actual VVT solenoid go bad as in it's function is intact but a new replacement would "fix" my issues.

As for chain stretch it's a possibility to an extent. I re-used my original chain which means it has 160k on it. When I did my gaskets I did inspect the chain and went off how much the tensioner extended to determine chain stretch. With new guides it was unnoticeable.
When I mean unnoticeable I mean the old tensioner had was oil stained where the shiny part of the tensioner rod would mean newer wear or tensioner coming out more to compensate. With new guides tensioner went back in the acceptable tension and that's how I sent it.

Im am huge when it comes to getting the life out of something, Timing components included. If it buys me another 10k miles so be it. Part of it comes from a cheapskate POV but the other part is to confirm theories.

If folks replaced everything that's reccomended which is every timing component this wouldnt be an issue but the reality is that these reccomendations add up to 1/2 - 3/4 the price of the car at times and it defeats diagnosis.

The good thing is that we are creating and documenting data in this forum on such a tricky repair. We have data that gaskets not always fixes the issues, many times the solenoids nor the cam sensors do anything either. We have yet to confirm chain stretch and visual inspection of the VTC.

 

I replaced the chain, crank sprocket, guides, GG gaskets with 2 small black donut gaskets, and the phaser gaskets(~1"ID washer-like gaskets) that go in the phasers, well, 5 not all 6 that would change this scenario. There was NO WAY I was going to get back into this so I replaced stuff, plus this car is going to be my sons in Feb and can't leave him hanging. I didn't compare the stretch on the chains. This stuff/situation sucks.

 

Valve click clack explained at 1:00. Perhaps the 6 washer gaskets are part of the problem? Read the Branden Laferrara comment chain.

 

Relearn procedure at 2k rpm? Did anyone do that?? I didn't.

 

^^^ That procedure is only for the HR with the exhaust cam "magnetic retarders"

The VHR's exhaust cam has non-variable/ fixed timing.

 

yeah I definitely spent well over 10k for a car I bought for 9k lmao I got a brand new 6MT from Nissan, a flywheel and clutch from Z1, galleries, water pump, oil pump, lower and upper oil pan, all four o2 sensors, HFCs, switched to a one piece driveshaft, diff bushings, diff bearings, new rear axles, an entire silicone hose kit, I’m about to buy all new coil packs, fuel injectors, and spark plugs. For a car I’m not even big on, I’ve went all out 😂


I’m working on the timing cover rn, I’ll be posting pics as I go

 

@Nandosan wow

 

So, here’s some progress pics/TDC and default timing for the car, I get my new bank 2 phaser in the mail soon, and as soon as I get it, I’ll send comparison pics but it does look like my cam phaser on bank two is slightly off compared to other pictures I’ve seen. What do you guys think?


**don’t mind the timing marks on the chain, guessing Nissan doesn’t care as long as the cams and crank are good lol

 

Great find. In all honesty the VTC housing doesnt go bad however it has many components. I questioned the reality of this for folks who powder coated their covers and for when they would suffer from this problem.

Rings on the VTC cover really were not a concern being that mine appeared good in my books and because usually gasket was the go-to. Things are different now and it does make me wonder if my issues could be solved with the VTC housing/rings.

On another note, did an oil change this week. Noticed some RTV in the filter. I noticed better driving and not that much rattle but p0011 comes on sooner. Yet another piece of data.

Makes me wonder if canals are full of debris.

 

@Nandosan How did you determine TDC? wire in #1? How do you know the cams are off? Can you show?
@BULL I used the "old" oil since I JUST changed it <100mi prior to the issue, hoping that would have some effect. I do need to top it up but I have a feeling this really has a small effect since being low was not making this issue happen before.

 

bro.. I was just thinking that right now..
Im waiting for my part to get here today, but I’m going to shoot some air through those galleys on the VTC covers and see if anything comes out. That could explain my click clack

 

I did a little old head trick I was taught when I first started learning timing with a distributor on my 1970 mustang.
So basically, you aligning the timing marks on the cam to the rear cover plate. Make sure all four sprockets and the crank sprocket align. Then, if you haven’t already, remove cylinder #1 spark plug and drop a very long screw driver. Then simply crank clockwise or counterclockwise and determine the peak. If the screwdriver will go down clockwise, turn counterclockwise until it goes up and doesn’t go anymore. Keep turning until it goes down, then go clockwise again until it peaks and that’ll have you as close to TDC as possible, maybe off by a few hundredths of an inch but not enough to give you inaccurate readings. This has always worked with me and never had issues. lol maybe there’s easier ways but this is how I do it

 

Just to update y’all, I’m 90% sure I figured out my issue. I haven’t tested my theory but it makes so much sense now that i caught it. This might also very well be your issue @BULL if you’re hearing the rattling like I am after the gallery gaskets.


I started with the phaser on my good side, bank 1. Per usual, I compressed the exhaust cam tensioner and used a pin to hold it in place, removed both sprockets and replaced the phaser. Easy day. When switching to my Bank 2, the problematic child, the tensioner on this was was insanely loose. Like, I could push it down with my pinky finger, loose. When compressing the tensioner utilizing the chain (like a sandwich), the cam phaser would shift right when tightened, and left when loosened while the exhaust cam would not.

From previous experience and from just putting 2+2 together, I’ve concluded that there’s definitely enough play between the intake phaser and exhaust cam that when given that initial acceleration and putting pressure on that chain, it causes a delay between the exhaust cam sprocket and the intake cam.
I think this could also explain why the rattle is there. Since the chain is insanely loose and the tensioner is basically useless, it will move in there like crazy while the phaser is trying to shift itself during the VVT process. This could also be why the ECU thinks the VVT system isn’t functioning due to the lag and delay in the chain. Furthermore, i also think since the chain is too small and there’s no wiggle room on the exhaust side, it physically couldn’t jump a tooth.

I wanted to gamble and leave the original phasers in but I don’t want to tear apart my car again for the chance that my phaser is actually bad. I’m sending the new phasers in, but I have this overwhelming feeling that my issue is the tensioner. Maybe mine is completely bad and you guys possibly have yours starting to fail?


Did you guys check those at all?

 

Hey Nandosan Can you do us a favor and do your absolute best at marking and documenting the phaser ring position in comparison to the dot on the gears. I've been slowly putting together a compendium to further help folks identify if their phasers have shifted.