projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

Ever since my second tune, my car has developed a searching/hunting idle condition but only after the engine/coolant temps are above 196 degrees. On cold starts it is normal, and will continue to idle normally (650-700ish rpm) when temps are under 190 degrees.

However, as the temps climb from 184 degrees upwards, my rpms also start to rise. if temps are at 184 degrees idle will be 700 rpm, at 190 degrees idle will be 800 rpm, 194 degrees idle is at 900 rpm, then 196 degrees the idle will move up and down between 700 - 1000 rpm and the CEL will come on with P0507.

I've tried to do the idle relearn manually and through my ECUtek app. Martin, my tuner, also tried to do the idle relearn by shutting a cylinder down with no good result.

If I drive with the AC on, the idle is steady at 800ish and the CEL eventually goes away. If I turn the AC off the idle will go back to hunting.

I also have EPS throttle bodies but didn't have this issue back on Uprev.

If there a sensor that is temperature based that's causing this? I have checked for vacuum leaks, checking all hoses and even taking apart anything air related apart but found nothing. I've used the spray and gas method to listen for changes in revs but nothing also.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember the temperature range exactly, but try doing the idle relearn but making sure the car is in the specified temp range when doing it (Check the FSM for the range)...I have an earlier 35HR which has a problem with the relearn and needs two cylinders shut down to do it everytime...I was talking to a Nissan Tech recently and he mentioned the need to keep it in the temp range to get the relearn to stick and that its difficult to do so... good luck

projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

The procedure gives a range of 158-212 degrees F. I'll try to do a relearn at the lower temperature range as I have only tried it in the 180s and 190s degree F.

What's the best method to shut down the cylinders on my own, unplug the coil pack? I don't want to flood the cylinder. My Ecutek app doesn't have that option.

Thanks.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

pull the electrical connectors on two of the injectors to deactivate. You should be able to reach one with your fingers (Passenger side i think) but will need extended (11"-13") needle nose pliers to pull the next closest [drivers side front IIRC]). To plug it back in I use two extend pliers..one straight and one angled like extended fingers.

Be careful not to snip the connector with the pliers and be patient plugging it back in...sometimes it takes me half an hour to plug in cause i cant line it up properly sometimes it pops in in a few seconds. BTW if anyones reading this and has a better way to disconnect these injectors without taking anything apart lemme know I hate doing this every time I clean my TBs

projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

I'll give this a shot. Thank you. Did you end up getting an updated ECU? I know Eugene of Enthusiast Auto Care figured this out and has been helping your year model.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

Not yet. I talked to Eugene and I'm trying to see if I can send him my ECU but the turn around time is a little unpredictable for me because I'm out of country so I cant do it right now...the Nissan tech I mentioned above is local said he could do it so I'm just trying to figure out scheduling right now to get it done....he mentioned the temperature thing would still be an issue but hopefully I can at least do relearns much easier in the future.

Skullcrusher

Just curious having a similar issue did you ever get it resolved?