Rear Coolant Leak
#1
Rear Coolant Leak
So I went for an oil change and the place said that I have a rear coolant leak. They tell me that the intake manifold needs to be taken off, also the lower plentium. They are talking about replacing the rear bypass hose, thermostat and heater hoses. I was wondering that is back there coolant wise. My car has only 190k on it. Around 6-9 months ago I had the coolant changed which is a shame because that was an extra hundred.
So what hoses are back there and do you know anyone in So cal that you would recommend to do the work. I was thinking of them replacing my spark plugs and pcv valves since they will be in there as long as they don't try to kill me on the labor. They said it should be about 675 parts and labor.
So what hoses are back there and do you know anyone in So cal that you would recommend to do the work. I was thinking of them replacing my spark plugs and pcv valves since they will be in there as long as they don't try to kill me on the labor. They said it should be about 675 parts and labor.
#2
Call Seb at Specialtyz he does all my work they are in Chatsworth
here is what you want to replace them with I just did mine
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-sil...et-p-5202.html
here is what you want to replace them with I just did mine
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-sil...et-p-5202.html
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ezbme (05-18-2019)
#4
Just say no!!!!!
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Call Seb at Specialtyz he does all my work they are in Chatsworth
here is what you want to replace them with I just did mine
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-sil...et-p-5202.html
here is what you want to replace them with I just did mine
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-sil...et-p-5202.html
How many of those plastic coupler tubes are there?
#6
The only thing that needs to come off are the plastic engine cover and maybe the airbox/intakes (moreso on the drivers side)...the clamps at the firewall are a little hard to squeeze off but otherwise they're ok...if you/the shop have these sort of flexible hose clamp pliers or some other variation of hose clamp pliars it makes it pretty easy ...OEM parts are probably less than $40.00 but I second Chuckie's recommendation on going silicone...
Also, to the OP most likely the leak is from the coupler between the heater hose deteriorating and cracking its cheap plastic (about $3.00 from the dealership new) and you are better off replacing it with this upgraded piece https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...e-p-11190.html
Also, to the OP most likely the leak is from the coupler between the heater hose deteriorating and cracking its cheap plastic (about $3.00 from the dealership new) and you are better off replacing it with this upgraded piece https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...e-p-11190.html
#7
Well my neighborhood friend/mechanic is going to do the work and he wants to do it on Saturday. I plan on having the car another probably 3 years so I think I will just go with the factory stuff. My currently coupler isn't an issue, but I am replacing it, the two hoses and the clamps. Everything is being done on the passenger side. So those are the parts being replaced. I am tempted by both that Z1 part and the silicone, but I think I will keep it simple by just getting the parts in one shot. I wish the coupler was $3. I have a bill of $87 from www.nissanpartsdeal.com unless someone can suggest anyone bettter.
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#8
Sorry I thought you mentioned the passenger side leaking the coupler on the passenger side is in the 3.00 range...if you don't have one on that side the driver side one is about $10.00 ..all the parts (6 clamps, 3 hoses and 1 connector [for the single coupler configuration) is $49.12 total at CONCEPTZ
Edit:
since this question is coming up on a few threads, here are the part numbers for the 3-hose (single coupler) configuration:
92417-JK20A - Connector
92402-JK20A - hose
92401-JK20A - hose
92410-EY00A - hose
01558-00521 - Clip/hose clamp (note dealerships only sell these in packs of 5 (6 are required in this application), so its better to but them form aftermarket sellers who will sell just how many you need)
2nd Edit: this parts list relates to the heater hose system, [not to the throttle body cooling system that the OP is now describing below]
Edit:
since this question is coming up on a few threads, here are the part numbers for the 3-hose (single coupler) configuration:
92417-JK20A - Connector
92402-JK20A - hose
92401-JK20A - hose
92410-EY00A - hose
01558-00521 - Clip/hose clamp (note dealerships only sell these in packs of 5 (6 are required in this application), so its better to but them form aftermarket sellers who will sell just how many you need)
2nd Edit: this parts list relates to the heater hose system, [not to the throttle body cooling system that the OP is now describing below]
Last edited by Baadnewsburr; 05-21-2019 at 01:12 PM.
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krazyfiend (11-24-2019)
#9
Wow I wish I had used them. I only got 5 of the 01558-00521. I could always pick one up at the dealer. This place is about 6 dollars less. I would like to do the silicone but being that I am only doing the passenger side it would look silly to have silicone only on one side.
This is what I ordered:
14056-EY00C
14056-EY01A
16439-56S0A (4)
01558-00521 (5)
92417-JK20A
92401-JK20A
92402-JK20A
The leak is coming from the hose for the throttle body, not the connector. But while I am in there, getting four hoses replaced.
This is what I ordered:
14056-EY00C
14056-EY01A
16439-56S0A (4)
01558-00521 (5)
92417-JK20A
92401-JK20A
92402-JK20A
The leak is coming from the hose for the throttle body, not the connector. But while I am in there, getting four hoses replaced.
#10
The leak is coming from the hose for the throttle body
you can actually disconnect/plug the coolant lines on the throttle bodies if you're in a warm place like so cal and don't see really cold temps and you'll never even notice they are'nt there...lots of people delete them b/c they aren't even necessary in warm climates...the heater hose system is different
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ezbme (05-21-2019)
#12
#13
@Hashim Is such a coupler available without the bleeder? I use vacuum filling for refilling so no need to bleed anything.
Another exciting task to add to my trans & rear end service this summer.
Another exciting task to add to my trans & rear end service this summer.
There is another one made by my local speed shop w/o a bleeder. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-INFI...frcectupt=true
I just got the factory one. I figure I will probably only have the car for another few years and the old one hasn't failed in the three years I have owned it. For me it is preventative maintenance.
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Baadnewsburr (05-21-2019)
#15
@Hashim Is such a coupler available without the bleeder? I use vacuum filling for refilling so no need to bleed anything.
Another exciting task to add to my trans & rear end service this summer.
Another exciting task to add to my trans & rear end service this summer.
There is one by dornan, which looks like it would work. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
There is another one made by my local speed shop w/o a bleeder. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-INFI...frcectupt=true
I just got the factory one. I figure I will probably only have the car for another few years and the old one hasn't failed in the three years I have owned it. For me it is preventative maintenance.
There is another one made by my local speed shop w/o a bleeder. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-INFI...frcectupt=true
I just got the factory one. I figure I will probably only have the car for another few years and the old one hasn't failed in the three years I have owned it. For me it is preventative maintenance.
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