Help 10 g37 coolant loss 77k
#46
Registered Member
When this was happening to you... were you able to drive the car at all? If so, for how many miles before it overheat and/or coolant start dropping?
I was doing my oil change & noticed coolant was in the same area. The coolant reservoir level was about 1/4 above the Min line.
I saw another leak coming from the back of the Engine (see pics) but not sure if he can splash all the way to the front like what you had..
I was doing my oil change & noticed coolant was in the same area. The coolant reservoir level was about 1/4 above the Min line.
I saw another leak coming from the back of the Engine (see pics) but not sure if he can splash all the way to the front like what you had..
#47
Registered Member
additional pics. Thanks
After oil change, I drove the car around for a bit (maybe 5 - 10 miles) stop & go. The coolant level in Reservoir didn't seem to drop down but will verify & confirm in the morning after letting it cool down. Thanks
After oil change, I drove the car around for a bit (maybe 5 - 10 miles) stop & go. The coolant level in Reservoir didn't seem to drop down but will verify & confirm in the morning after letting it cool down. Thanks
#48
does the rear cover have to come out to fix this leak? last post here: Help With Confirming the Coolant Lea - MyG37
getting conflicting info online.245k on the clock, so she don't owe me anything at this point.
#49
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Excellent information, with pics, in this thread: Water Pump Questions/DIY
You do NOT have to remove the REAR timing cover. Once you remove the FRONT cover the pump will be right there.
However, while you are in there and at 16 years/245k miles, it stands to reason your timing components (chains, guides, tensioners) might also need to be replaced. How far you want to go into this is up to you.
You do NOT have to remove the REAR timing cover. Once you remove the FRONT cover the pump will be right there.
However, while you are in there and at 16 years/245k miles, it stands to reason your timing components (chains, guides, tensioners) might also need to be replaced. How far you want to go into this is up to you.
The following users liked this post:
JSolo (09-17-2022)
#50
Excellent information, with pics, in this thread: Water Pump Questions/DIY
You do NOT have to remove the REAR timing cover. Once you remove the FRONT cover the pump will be right there.
However, while you are in there and at 16 years/245k miles, it stands to reason your timing components (chains, guides, tensioners) might also need to be replaced. How far you want to go into this is up to you.
You do NOT have to remove the REAR timing cover. Once you remove the FRONT cover the pump will be right there.
However, while you are in there and at 16 years/245k miles, it stands to reason your timing components (chains, guides, tensioners) might also need to be replaced. How far you want to go into this is up to you.
#51
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
The "weep hole" may "drain" from near the rear timing cover, that I am not sure. But the source of the leak is usually the water pump seals.
As you alluded, it will be cheaper to just replace the whole engine. especially if you have the skills and tools needed. These engines are a dime a dozen nowadays...
As you alluded, it will be cheaper to just replace the whole engine. especially if you have the skills and tools needed. These engines are a dime a dozen nowadays...
#52
The "weep hole" may "drain" from near the rear timing cover, that I am not sure. But the source of the leak is usually the water pump seals.
As you alluded, it will be cheaper to just replace the whole engine. especially if you have the skills and tools needed. These engines are a dime a dozen nowadays...
As you alluded, it will be cheaper to just replace the whole engine. especially if you have the skills and tools needed. These engines are a dime a dozen nowadays...
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