Weird Clutch Engagement
#1
Weird Clutch Engagement
I've noticed that my clutch engages about 10% or so right from the floor but does not engage anymore until the normal bite point. I can feel the car vibrate as I slowly release the clutch from the floor but the car didn't move. It just felt like the car wanted to lurk forward like attempting to start driving without applying gas. Does anyone have any inputs? Am I just being paranoid?
My car is a 2012 sedan with 65k miles. From what I know, the trans was replaced at 48k when I bought the car. Since then, I've changed the trans fluid at around 57k with no issues and I've recently bled the clutch with Motul RBF 600 about 500 miles before I experienced this. Is it possible I did not bleed it correctly? I made sure that there was always fluid in between the markings when bleeding and that we used the full travel of the clutch while doing it. Went through the bleeding cycle 14 times to make sure all the nasty gunk was out of it. The fluid has not dropped at all. I've only noticed it yesterday before I performed an oil change and have not driven the car since so I do not know if the situation has changed. The car was at operating temp when I noticed this issue.
My car is a 2012 sedan with 65k miles. From what I know, the trans was replaced at 48k when I bought the car. Since then, I've changed the trans fluid at around 57k with no issues and I've recently bled the clutch with Motul RBF 600 about 500 miles before I experienced this. Is it possible I did not bleed it correctly? I made sure that there was always fluid in between the markings when bleeding and that we used the full travel of the clutch while doing it. Went through the bleeding cycle 14 times to make sure all the nasty gunk was out of it. The fluid has not dropped at all. I've only noticed it yesterday before I performed an oil change and have not driven the car since so I do not know if the situation has changed. The car was at operating temp when I noticed this issue.
#3
I have not. There’s always pressure pushing back when pressing down on the clutch. It’s an intermittent problem and when it does happen, the car does start to move but in between the premature bite and the normal bite point, the clutch does not engage any more or less. It’s like it’s constantly held at like 10% clutch but the pedal is still traveling.
#4
Just say no!!!!!
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From: People's Republic of IL
Look very closely at where the clevis meets the master pushrod. You'll need a flash light for this. What you're looking for is a minute amount of free play when the pedal is fully off the floor. There's an equalizing valve in the master that works only when the pushrod is fully out. Look for posts by rochester. He had an inconsistent clutch pedal which was the result of improper pushrod adjustment.
#5
If you can't get back to normal by bleeding it or adjusting the clutch fork on the pedal, then get ready to replace your trans. slave cylinder.
You may never get all the air out of the slave cylinder if it's busted and unless you adjusted the pedal in anyway, you probably won't have to adjust the fork.
You may never get all the air out of the slave cylinder if it's busted and unless you adjusted the pedal in anyway, you probably won't have to adjust the fork.
#6
Look very closely at where the clevis meets the master pushrod. You'll need a flash light for this. What you're looking for is a minute amount of free play when the pedal is fully off the floor. There's an equalizing valve in the master that works only when the pushrod is fully out. Look for posts by rochester. He had an inconsistent clutch pedal which was the result of improper pushrod adjustment.
If you can't get back to normal by bleeding it or adjusting the clutch fork on the pedal, then get ready to replace your trans. slave cylinder.
You may never get all the air out of the slave cylinder if it's busted and unless you adjusted the pedal in anyway, you probably won't have to adjust the fork.
You may never get all the air out of the slave cylinder if it's busted and unless you adjusted the pedal in anyway, you probably won't have to adjust the fork.
#7
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
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From: People's Republic of IL
Ok,sounds like your adjustment is correct. I don't know. My understanding of a failed/failing CSC was loss of fluid. After all, the csc fails because the seal fails resulting in loss of fluid/pressure. Given that your level doesn't go down suggests something else. Possibly internal master leak. I've never heard of a csc having an internal leak.
Did all of this begin after bleeding? If so, I'd say try again. Personally I've had good luck with gravity bleed (refilling the res 4-5x in between), then traditional (with helper) a few times to finish it off.
Did all of this begin after bleeding? If so, I'd say try again. Personally I've had good luck with gravity bleed (refilling the res 4-5x in between), then traditional (with helper) a few times to finish it off.
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#8
Ok,sounds like your adjustment is correct. I don't know. My understanding of a failed/failing CSC was loss of fluid. After all, the csc fails because the seal fails resulting in loss of fluid/pressure. Given that your level doesn't go down suggests something else. Possibly internal master leak. I've never heard of a csc having an internal leak.
Did all of this begin after bleeding? If so, I'd say try again. Personally I've had good luck with gravity bleed (refilling the res 4-5x in between), then traditional (with helper) a few times to finish it off.
Did all of this begin after bleeding? If so, I'd say try again. Personally I've had good luck with gravity bleed (refilling the res 4-5x in between), then traditional (with helper) a few times to finish it off.
#9
I hope it's not your internal slave cylinder either
I saw mine leaking through a small gap under the car. Most probably wouldn't notice
It's not hard to bleed the clutch lines, if you did it 14x you probably did it correctly.
I noticed my clutch pedal was acting very strangely in the weeks before I lost all the fluid.
Maybe by moving all that dirty fluid around bleeding it, caused the internals of the cylinders to break
I saw mine leaking through a small gap under the car. Most probably wouldn't notice
It's not hard to bleed the clutch lines, if you did it 14x you probably did it correctly.
I noticed my clutch pedal was acting very strangely in the weeks before I lost all the fluid.
Maybe by moving all that dirty fluid around bleeding it, caused the internals of the cylinders to break
#10
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
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From: People's Republic of IL
Gravity bleeding is as you describe. It's important not to let the reservoir run dry. Also, I'll usually suck out (with surgical syringe) most of the crap in the res so as not to flush it through the rest of the system. Again, don't let the res run dry. Finish off with traditional bleeding.
Still have a hard time understanding how the csc could fail without leaking.
Still have a hard time understanding how the csc could fail without leaking.
#11
Well when mine was leaking but it wasn't very noticeable at first. I'm not saying the slave cylinder if def the cause...but be prepared for it because it's a very common problem with the 6 speeds. It could be a very small leak now, after a while your pedal won't come back up once it's leaking bad
#12
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: People's Republic of IL
Clutch fluid capacity is minimal, nowhere near as much as the brake system. Level difference should be visible in the reservoir. Might have to take the cap off and shine a light in it, but visible still. Also, I can't see it being intermittent, rather only getting worse with each pedal stroke.
#13
I am very puzzled as well. Typical clutch issues with these cars involve lost in fluid but I've been checking after every drive and the level remains the same. Went ahead and drove it one more time before bleeding and the clutch, again, was engaging early as I was backing out but that was the only time it happened today. Very confused.... Hopefully re-bleeding it will resolve this issue.
#14
I've now noticed abnormally loud clutch chatter during the initial startup, as in, starting the car then fully releasing it in neutral. It sounds like typical clutch chatter from the car but it's much louder. It does goes away in a couple of seconds though. Any ideas? Lol, I'm slowly breaking my g....