Nemises1979

Well I got the dreaded P0011. What I have done so far

- Changed Oil ( didn't work)
- Removed and cleaned and reinstalled both VVT control solenoids (didn't work)
- Bench checked VVT selenoids (hooked up to 12 v source and verified they were clicking)
- Changed gallery gaskets reset ECU (didn't work)

Before I go replacing more parts; are there any other tests I can try? My next option I would guess are replacing the VVT selenoids and cam position sensors. I was sure it was the gallery gasket, now 3 full days of work later my car is still in limp mode and I feel like I am just guessing. I would guess next would be to replace VVT solenoids as I heard that sometimes they will pass the bench test but have week springs inside. I also read that it could be intake timing sprockets needing to be replaced. I sure hope not because I would HATE to have to take the motor apart again.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

I don't really have an educated answer for this but I am very curious to hear about this as well.

FWIW my first thought was a bad sensor and the solenoids possibly passing the bench test and failing on install...Your plan on replacing the cam potion sensor and solenoids sounds solid. Theres probably more examples that other ppl have seen but the only other time I can recall someone having a similar issue after doing an oil gallery gasket change was the cam position sensor was not reinstalled correctly.

Nemises1979

[QUOTE=slartibartfast;4222581][/QUOTE

Yes it was involved, (very involved) I am referring to the two gaskets behind the timing chain. Same method as this guy in the video. I removed the whole front end. Also note my gasket wasn't even really in bad shape I really only changed it because everything was already off. I did have leaking from the timing cover on the AC compressor side. I was hoping that sealing everything up again may fix the issue. I torqued every everything to spec. replaced all gaskets replaced oil pressure switch. I plan to test oil pressure if that is ok I must be left with a bad sensor.

Nemises1979

Thanks, I will give another look. But I mean seems a cam position sensor is almost fool proof to install.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

you'd think so lol...I think in the case I read about, the shop had messed rushing to put things back together...I highly doubt you've installed the sensor wrong, but I do think the sensor is probably bad...along with possibly the solenoids given the history of both of these failing for other ppl relatively frequently compared to other parts...

Please keep posting on your progress, it'll benefit lots of others,

good luck!

Nemises1979

No worries, I purchased from concept-z-performance (eBay), And now that you asked I guess it could be a culprit since it is obviously not OEM. I'll keep that in mind, However, leaving that aside I had the issue before the gasket was replaced. The one I removed was totally intact and actually did not want to come off. And that's with 220k on the motor. I guess I got one of the few that didn't crumble apart.

Nemises1979

Resurrecting this thread. So I have been driving for the last year in limp mode. Now I have a week off and I am back at it. Long story short I am pretty sure it is my timing belt tensioner that is the issue. When I compress, it totally sounds like a wet fart. It is clearly holding no pressure. To remove the cam tensioner you need to remove the VVEL Ladder which requires the VVEL actuator and sensor to be removed. but in the FSM it says.VVEL actuator sub assembly and VVEL control shaft position sensor are nonreusable. Has any one tried to resuse?

sunnymore21

@Nemises1979 Any update on the repairs you could share. Even I have same issues. P0011, changed the gallery gaskets, sensors check OK. Still stuck with this code and limp mode.

BULL

This is an old thread but folks should do proper research prior to attempting the gallery gaskets. A full sweeping oil pressure gauge will let you know your pressure at idle and at high RPM. Only when not inspect you should lean that way.
VTC solenoids can click and pass resistance test and still be bad. The plunger should rest completely when not energized, a quick swap to the second bank should move the issue to that bank.
Lastly under operation the VTC has a phaser ring that lets the VTC position sensor know its location. Under lack of pressure this phaser overheats which can cause the ring to slip off position.
Usually ring slip will require a new VTC phaser however with a group effort and proper documentation we should be able to determine where that ring is supposed to be when all the timing marks are aligned.
This will help tremendously pin point between lack of pressure or faulty VTC.

m3clubracer

Resurrecting this thread again. I got this code after a drop of 3 gears on the interstate and high rev and then the car stumbled really bad on any acceleration. 235k mi. and losing oil mysteriously. I reset the code and now it hesitates/stumbles slightly more on acceleration that it did earlier. I figured it was one of the fleabay coils that came apart upon removal a few months ago but the slight hesitation seems to be this gasket? Crossing my fingers that it doesn't do it again!!

If I need to do this gasket R/R process I assume that after I spin the engine 1mil times to get all the marks to line up, that after taking the tension off the chain, all is good. There is no need to hold the cams and they wont jump after removing tension?

When I reset the code that I got for O2 sensor on the same bank AND the new one P0011 the harsh stumble / hesitation stopped. This would most likely indicate the CPS not the gaskets??? What are the chances resetting codes means its sensor not gasket? If it were gasket the issue would still be there.

I see videos on CPS in the front and some on the rear of the cam?? The car is a 2010 G37x. Usually they are on the front. I'm a tad confused.

BULL

You'll need to get yourself a few tools to collect some data.

A wide ranging oil pressure gauge and monitoring during cold starts, code resetting and raises of RPM will let you know if you have decent oil pressure.
Removing the BANK 1 VTC and snaking a bore scope (phone adapter) can show you physically if the gasket is still in place.
OBD reader and TORQUE/OBD Fusion can let you know your VTC and VVEL position along with how well your AF/O2 sensors are working.
Any data that seems off will show you the direction you'll need to move in.
VTC angle at idle should be 0 Degrees with some minor +/- movement but like VVEL both banks should be similar to one another.
A/F-02 sensor readings as well but not as detrimental as cam angles. Monitor these angles with a code and without the code as well.
You should not have any A/F-02 problems if it is truly a cam related issue. You could have both issues at the same time.
Unlikely possibility is a bad A/F- O2 sensor messing with the Airfuel can have you in limp however it should not affect the cams.

You tackle either one first, I would suggest OBD data first since you've physically changed a few things already, If your exhaust sensors seem ok just reading a bit weird it could be that these cam angles are affecting your airfuels and the code for your airfuels is just over compensation from the engine believing the cams are in a certain position when they are not.

Last possibility is slipped VTC ring.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...ml#post4315666

m3clubracer

Thanks Bull! I have DashCamand because Torque is not made for Apple. I may get OBD F.

I have a bore scope. I guess you CAN remove the VTC!.

A/F being off is due to catless DPs and 90 deg with spacers...

So far after about another 150 mi, and some beating, no CEL or bog.

jim6s

Hello i need help i have replaced camshaft sensors and vvt solenoids but still have p0011 and p0300 please help if possible