When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are you saying you have two motors? This winter I’m going to put on a 3.47” jack, 3” input pulley and run just a blower guard screen and try the gates RPM belt and hopefully not get belt slip and be between 600-650whp.
There’s a guy with a Ysi blower pushing 850whp but he’s using cog pulleys but if you have a built motor you should be pushing for numbers.
No I had a blown motor, so I purchased a longblock to install. So only 1 good motor.
Can you please give me a few more details. I did not quite understand the jack, and blower guard screen. I am looking for similar power as you are on the stock motor. My main concern after the terrible experience I had though is making whatever set up I go with safe and reliable.
I tried reaching out to Stillen- they didn't answer and were of no help.
With the Stillen kit, what do I need to do to make sure it is safe?
The bigger the jackshaft pulley—> faster the 8 rib belt spins—>more boost. Smaller the pulley on the supercharger=More RPMs of supercharger—>more boost.
You need the air-air intercooler with the MAF sensor placed on the charge pipe
Originally Posted by Nycstilleng37s
No I had a blown motor, so I purchased a longblock to install. So only 1 good motor.
Can you please give me a few more details. I did not quite understand the jack, and blower guard screen. I am looking for similar power as you are on the stock motor. My main concern after the terrible experience I had though is making whatever set up I go with safe and reliable.
I tried reaching out to Stillen- they didn't answer and were of no help.
With the Stillen kit, what do I need to do to make sure it is safe?
I tried reaching out to Stillen- they didn't answer and were of no help.
With the Stillen kit, what do I need to do to make sure it is safe?
Register to the 370 forum, they have tons of support for the A2A (and basic Stillen SC also). Contact Topgunz over there, he can set you up with what you need to convert to A2A
The bigger the jackshaft pulley—> faster the 8 rib belt spins—>more boost. Smaller the pulley on the supercharger=More RPMs of supercharger—>more boost.
You need the air-air intercooler with the MAF sensor placed on the charge pipe
I am seriously considering the A2A. Is there any way to relocate the MAF sensor without the A2A?
Also with the A2A kit and a good tune, what kind of power can I safely and reliably make with the stock stillen kit? I am looking to do like 40k miles on this kit before I get a built motor made.
Also with additional mods, fueling, cooling and stillen supercharger related, what kind of power can I expect on a stock motor again safely and reliably?
Register to the 370 forum, they have tons of support for the A2A (and basic Stillen SC also). Contact Topgunz over there, he can set you up with what you need to convert to A2A
If you have E85 around you can make 500-650whp. I’m at 500 with stock pulleys and filter (well 9lb pulley on there), but hoping to get deeper into 600s with next upgrade.
they say you shouldn’t really be able to blow your motor with the S trim of superchargers—they don’t make enough torque, so it’s all in the tune (and fueling). There are some well reputable tuners, but I think the top suggestion you’ll get for this kit is Seb on Ecutek as he’s tuned far more of these than anyone else—I can pretty much guarantee that.
seb will tell you to get a return fuel system if you use E85. The 450 pump and 1050x injectors work for most power levels, but if you wanna get deep into the 600s-700 you will want 1300 injectors and maybe a twin pump
Originally Posted by Nycstilleng37s
I am seriously considering the A2A. Is there any way to relocate the MAF sensor without the A2A?
Also with the A2A kit and a good tune, what kind of power can I safely and reliably make with the stock stillen kit? I am looking to do like 40k miles on this kit before I get a built motor made.
Also with additional mods, fueling, cooling and stillen supercharger related, what kind of power can I expect on a stock motor again safely and reliably?
If you have E85 around you can make 500-650whp. I’m at 500 with stock pulleys and filter (well 9lb pulley on there), but hoping to get deeper into 600s with next upgrade.
they say you shouldn’t really be able to blow your motor with the S trim of superchargers—they don’t make enough torque, so it’s all in the tune (and fueling). There are some well reputable tuners, but I think the top suggestion you’ll get for this kit is Seb on Ecutek as he’s tuned far more of these than anyone else—I can pretty much guarantee that.
seb will tell you to get a return fuel system if you use E85. The 450 pump and 1050x injectors work for most power levels, but if you wanna get deep into the 600s-700 you will want 1300 injectors and maybe a twin pump
e85 is hard to come by. It is hard enough to get the 93 octane gas lol
Well you’ll probably be limited at around 500whp then. But on the bright side, it will be a much cheaper build. Fueling build is what really felt like it sank my budget
Check the link below. They have kits for the sedans AND coupes. To answer the other poster's question about HP numbers, you can make close about 580 WHP or more, with the proper mods, such as CJM fuel return system, ceramic ball bearings, 3.2" pulley on the super charger, etc. That same site has a few examples of different customers who took different routes to achieve those numbers.
Check the link below. They have kits for the sedans AND coupes. To answer the other poster's question about HP numbers, you can make close about 580 WHP or more, with the proper mods, such as CJM fuel return system, ceramic ball bearings, 3.2" pulley on the super charger, etc. That same site has a few examples of different customers who took different routes to achieve those numbers.
I really want to A2A SC my car, but I am having a huge hurdle I can't seem to overcome: It seems no one really has a thread going for the S/C journey and the final performance numbers achieved. If I look at all the info online about S/C'ing the 370z/G37, I rarely see anyone sharing track results. The only track numbers I can find are buried in the general postings about track times, and there usually isn't much data shared to let you know what it took to achieve those numbers. Just a blurry pic of a timeslip, if that.
With my previous car, a 2016 GTI DSG, you knew EXACTLY what you were getting. GTI traps 100mph stock w/DSG, add JB4 and you are certain to add 4-5mph for a 104-105 trap speed, go stage 1 gets you 108 mph, stage 2 gets you 110+. Everyone was documenting and sharing info.
With these cars it's like a leap of faith. I know that it's supposed to be "480-500whp" but that's low torque in a heavy car and I don't see people measuring and sharing their performance data along with their tuning journey.
When I see our cars on Youtube with S/C, I always think they look slow.
No doubt. You don’t supercharge for 1/4 mile times you’re right there’s no torque. It still performs like a VQ—-all too end. Better to go turbo if you’re concerned about 1/4 times but then you’re more likely needing a built block and more issues overall.
My buddy ran mid 13s with his but we’re at high elevation where you’re running high 14s-low 15s while NA. He got slicks but I never saw his numbers after that.
Originally Posted by takemorepills
I really want to A2A SC my car, but I am having a huge hurdle I can't seem to overcome: It seems no one really has a thread going for the S/C journey and the final performance numbers achieved. If I look at all the info online about S/C'ing the 370z/G37, I rarely see anyone sharing track results. The only track numbers I can find are buried in the general postings about track times, and there usually isn't much data shared to let you know what it took to achieve those numbers. Just a blurry pic of a timeslip, if that.
With my previous car, a 2016 GTI DSG, you knew EXACTLY what you were getting. GTI traps 100mph stock w/DSG, add JB4 and you are certain to add 4-5mph for a 104-105 trap speed, go stage 1 gets you 108 mph, stage 2 gets you 110+. Everyone was documenting and sharing info.
With these cars it's like a leap of faith. I know that it's supposed to be "480-500whp" but that's low torque in a heavy car and I don't see people measuring and sharing their performance data along with their tuning journey.
When I see our cars on Youtube with S/C, I always think they look slow.
No doubt. You don’t supercharge for 1/4 mile times you’re right there’s no torque. It still performs like a VQ—-all too end. Better to go turbo if you’re concerned about 1/4 times but then you’re more likely needing a built block and more issues overall.
My buddy ran mid 13s with his but we’re at high elevation where you’re running high 14s-low 15s while NA. He got slicks but I never saw his numbers after that.
Not concerned about 1/4 mile time as much as trap speed, I focus on trap speed as a metric of power. My GTI would melt the front tires (FWD) but once underway the acceleration was real impressive.
I have a 7AT AWD car, so no turbo for me (although, with a built 7AT a turbo would be awesome on the AWD cars!). I just can't find out what an A2A 7AT traps at with 450-480whp and "low" torque. I want to know what I am buying.
I did go back and re-research the 370z forums, I found ONE, just ONE timeslip of a Stillen SC 6MT fairly basic setup, did 116mph in the 1/4. The 7AT, even in a Q60, should be able to match that (if not better, the 7AT can throw down better times than 6MT) then add in the efficiency and refinement of the Topgunz A2A kit, maybe an AWD car could possibly get 118-120mph at sea level? (I'm talking basic setup, nothing above 500-ish WHP and no rebuilding of the 7AT) I dunno, just extrapolations and theories on my end. I even saw a guy only get 110 mph in a 6MT SC 370Z running 91 octane. A GTI can do that with $1500 in mods, so yeah....it's all about "I wish I knew exactly what I am buying" when I buy the kit.
Nowadays, there's a bunch of stock cars prowling the streets of suburbia that could easily put to shame a boosted Z/G, like say the hordes of dual motor Tesla 3's in my area that are now outnumbering Corollas!
Very good articles. I noticed for the air to air conversion the soho kit is double the price of the top gunz kit. Top gunz being like 1500 or 1600...
any idea why?
I don't know why. If you have a coupe, you could go the top gunz kit route. If you have a sedan like I do, your choices are limited, as top gunz DID NOT manufacture a kit for the sedans. I asked about that option on the forum and the only answer I received was that I can extend the piping by about 4", smh. So, you can get someone to fabricate the kit for you, which may or may not cost about the same, keep in mind that your car will be down for awhile while the kit is being fabricated.
Hey all, I've been mostly active on the 370Z although as a G37 owner maybe my build will be more relevant over here. And if you haven't been following along with the progress of improvements with forced induction options to us (AAM TT and Stillen options have come a long way), feel free to get educated at least on the supercharger portion. Read or click through the links all you want. And please chime in on suggestions or disagreements.
Topgunz Air-Air supercharger kit. Went to Minnesota myself to pick up the kit (and see family and friends, I guess...)
So here's what I have going on. You may or may not have been considering the Stillen supercharger kit. It's great to have as an option, but there's always some issues. For one, Stillen got California CARB approval with their canned tune, which is garbage (but legal in California at least). That's issue number one. Second and probably biggest issue is MAF sensor placement on the Stillen kit. MAF was placed before the blower (correct me if I'm wrong) so it had it's readings that didn't account for heat soak in the intercooler, and any changes from blower which can also be dangerous for the motor. This new design places the MAF's on the charge pipe (and comes with the MAF extension cables). The water intercooler was an issue with the Stillen causing heat soak issues for big power as well, so some would opt to upgrade to the frozenboost heat exchanger, or the other option that came up was Topgunz originally came out with the air-air intercooler (with the charge pipe with relocated MAF, etc). This option was available for current stillen owners and came at a cost of $1500. Topgunz - air to air upgrade - Nissan 370Z Forum
Originally I had picked up a used blower and was going to send it to 928 for the SuperVortech upgrade (upgrading the SCi impeller for Si impeller yielding ~15% more air), and the SuperVortech also comes with upgraded ceramic bearings so you can use a smaller puller and spin the blower at higher RPM's. I started talking to Aaron (Topgunz) at that point as I wanted to pair the upgraded blower with his intercooler, and order the rest of the parts from Stillen. Easier said than done--Stillen had no interest selling Joe Dirt the manifold, brackets and hardware to make their own kit. Somehow, Aaron met the right person who would allow him to order the parts in bulk. So here we are, we have a fully improved supercharger kit for $6,000. It comes with the V3 Si impeller (an upgrade from the Stillen SCi blower), however the bearings remain the same and are not upgraded to the ceramics. I will be starting off using the standard 3" 8PSI pulley (which with the upgraded impeller should be giving me a bit more than 9PSI anyways). Topgunz full supercharger kits!! - Nissan 370Z Forum
I currently have on order 1050x injectors (ordered from Aaron for $675), and it seems I will be the first G37 using the Fast Intentions 34 row oil cooler. It is listed as being for the 370Z only although it really should work considering I have a 6 speed manual coupe very similar to the 370Z. One guy at FI said it will work on G37, other brand oil coolers I've noticed seem interchangeable between 370Z and the G37 coupe but the guy over the phone who took my order made me agree that it is not guaranteed to fit since it has not been tested on a G37. So watch for that if you're interested as I did try to see if anybody had done it on a G37 but could find no instances for myself.
So at this point...I'm fully in it. Work is slow, crypto/bitcoin is down, so spending more money on a build isn't first nature at this point but I'm thinking I may also do return fuel system with the Walbro 450 and tune for flex fuel/e85. Just may have to sell a GSXR for more racecar money.
Oil cooler is expected around 4/20, so that's about when I'm hoping to start really making some moves. On the car currently are the cooler NGK GTR spark plugs (DILKAR8A8) designed for boosted motors, FI resonated test pipes (since boost is known to blow out the catalyst), and a Nismo 1.5way differential as well as a DSS 1 piece aluminum driveshaft. Currently working out the issue with high speed vibration on the DS, hopefully I can find a good shop that may just find the diff has been shimmed improperly. I had FI RHFC's on the car that I could sell although I loved the sound so might keep them around, I will be welding in resonators along the exhaust as I can't stand the rasp and I'm amazed wife hasn't made a fuss about it.
3 questions-
1. Is there any benefit to staying air to water?
2. Is there any downside of going air to air?
3. Is it POSSIBLE to relocate the MAF sensor without going air to air with the kit?
08-22-2019 | 08:32 AM
