Heater hose replacement: Cost? Coupler fix?
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Heater hose replacement: Cost? Coupler fix?
Hello,
2010 G37 Sedan
So it looks like another hose leaked on me. It's the heater hose going to passenger side firewall
The hose to the firewall is fine but the one from connector to engine is leaking from under the coupler(I believe that's what it's called)
Does anyone know how much dealership charge to replace it? I see the leak from under the car but it looks pretty tight to get to. Has anyone replaced this before & if so, please give me some pointers.
Thanks in advance.
2010 G37 Sedan
So it looks like another hose leaked on me. It's the heater hose going to passenger side firewall
The hose to the firewall is fine but the one from connector to engine is leaking from under the coupler(I believe that's what it's called)
Does anyone know how much dealership charge to replace it? I see the leak from under the car but it looks pretty tight to get to. Has anyone replaced this before & if so, please give me some pointers.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Registered User
Same problem!
Having the same issue. I will most likely be tackling this on my own. At first I thought my old coworker (technician at infiniti) had said to replace heater core. After talking about it with him and also my service advisor, they said it was just the hose! 😅
I decided to see check and see where the actual leak was at, if near fire wall or near engine..and seen that it was at the joint of the two hoses. Will be having my wife buy the parts(works for a different dealership now but the dealer group owns infiniti where the wife and I used to work at) so shouldn't be that bad.
Will keep you updated and see if I can get some pictures or video/s!
I decided to see check and see where the actual leak was at, if near fire wall or near engine..and seen that it was at the joint of the two hoses. Will be having my wife buy the parts(works for a different dealership now but the dealer group owns infiniti where the wife and I used to work at) so shouldn't be that bad.
Will keep you updated and see if I can get some pictures or video/s!
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Beside the heater hose, are there any other hoses in the area that coolant would flow thru?? I asked because upon inspecting hose after removal, I didn't see any leak. I may need to inspect hose again.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#5
Registered User
Definitely PITA
Will post pictures in a sec.....
Last edited by Veliz7; 09-25-2017 at 03:42 AM. Reason: Adding pictures
#6
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Question: when u remove old hose, did coolant came out? I was afraid so i drained b4 removing old hose.
Though i like the easy aftermarket clamp, the dealership is ideal. It control pressure better IMHO..
Though i like the easy aftermarket clamp, the dealership is ideal. It control pressure better IMHO..
#7
Registered User
Coolant did come out, I was prepare for it with something under the car to catch it in, plus grabbed some old rags to not have a lot of it go down fast. Overall tho not a lot of coolant came out and if anything it was mainly from the connection coming from the engine, but I was expecting it and tried to install the new hose and clamp fast!
Well only reason I went with aftermarket clamp was, because I read somewhere else how that style of clamp looses tension after years..and my car being about 9 years and at about 140K miles I went with the new clamps, BUT if I would've had the long reach pliers I would've just used the old ones, since they were on pretty good and with good tension still!!
Well only reason I went with aftermarket clamp was, because I read somewhere else how that style of clamp looses tension after years..and my car being about 9 years and at about 140K miles I went with the new clamps, BUT if I would've had the long reach pliers I would've just used the old ones, since they were on pretty good and with good tension still!!
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#9
Registered Member
Thread Starter
#11
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Replacement tips:
Before coolant draining, make sure you can remove clips from hose. The one to Engine is most difficult to get to. Remove engine cover & battery cover. Battery remove is not needed.
See tools from above post. The angle one go to hose clamp to engine. Position from passenger side gives best angle. The straight plier go to body hose clamp.
Once clamps can be remove, drain coolant. Do NOT remove hose until coolant is drained. See DIY for coolant drain. Connect all hose & connector to 1 piece be.fore installing. Put hose & clamp on engine first before one going to body.
Fill coolant & bleed. Hope no more leaks or missing coolant. GL
Before coolant draining, make sure you can remove clips from hose. The one to Engine is most difficult to get to. Remove engine cover & battery cover. Battery remove is not needed.
See tools from above post. The angle one go to hose clamp to engine. Position from passenger side gives best angle. The straight plier go to body hose clamp.
Once clamps can be remove, drain coolant. Do NOT remove hose until coolant is drained. See DIY for coolant drain. Connect all hose & connector to 1 piece be.fore installing. Put hose & clamp on engine first before one going to body.
Fill coolant & bleed. Hope no more leaks or missing coolant. GL
#13
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
I had the same leak. The OEM plastic connector is garbage, mine was corroded on one side, I had to take some time to clean up all the corroded pieces inside the heater hose.
I bought an aluminum connector from O'Reillys so I don't have to deal with this crap in the future. Thanks Nissan for the garbage part.
As mentioned, the OEM clamps were a pain to remove due to the location and lack of space. I remembered I had to climb on top of the engine, kneel and reach down. I didn't have the long reach pliers, guess that would have helped. Replaced the clamps with worm clamps, much easier to deal with than those OEM tension clamps.
Highly recommend replacing this connector if you are changing your coolant.
I bought an aluminum connector from O'Reillys so I don't have to deal with this crap in the future. Thanks Nissan for the garbage part.
As mentioned, the OEM clamps were a pain to remove due to the location and lack of space. I remembered I had to climb on top of the engine, kneel and reach down. I didn't have the long reach pliers, guess that would have helped. Replaced the clamps with worm clamps, much easier to deal with than those OEM tension clamps.
Highly recommend replacing this connector if you are changing your coolant.
#14
I had the same leak. The OEM plastic connector is garbage, mine was corroded on one side, I had to take some time to clean up all the corroded pieces inside the heater hose.
I bought an aluminum connector from O'Reillys so I don't have to deal with this crap in the future. Thanks Nissan for the garbage part.
As mentioned, the OEM clamps were a pain to remove due to the location and lack of space. I remembered I had to climb on top of the engine, kneel and reach down. I didn't have the long reach pliers, guess that would have helped. Replaced the clamps with worm clamps, much easier to deal with than those OEM tension clamps.
Highly recommend replacing this connector if you are changing your coolant.
I bought an aluminum connector from O'Reillys so I don't have to deal with this crap in the future. Thanks Nissan for the garbage part.
As mentioned, the OEM clamps were a pain to remove due to the location and lack of space. I remembered I had to climb on top of the engine, kneel and reach down. I didn't have the long reach pliers, guess that would have helped. Replaced the clamps with worm clamps, much easier to deal with than those OEM tension clamps.
Highly recommend replacing this connector if you are changing your coolant.
What was the part number for the aluminum connector that you purchased from O'Reillys autoparts?
#15
I just went through this process, losing all the coolant because of a disintegrated coupler. The replacement part that I used was DORMAN 56430 (Heater Hose Connector). It is available from O'Reilly (it is steel not aluminum). So far it works well. No leaks. As somebody mentioned before the most difficult part was to remove the old plastic coupler without getting parts of it inside the hoses - I had to remove the coupler piece by piece - it was breaking at the touch of pliers.
Why Infinity did not recall this thing or at least does not replace it during routine service is beyond me. For $10 worth of part, there is a risk of premature failure of the engine...
Why Infinity did not recall this thing or at least does not replace it during routine service is beyond me. For $10 worth of part, there is a risk of premature failure of the engine...
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