jpowersjr2

iTrader: (1)

2 year old thread...

QuinnDEskimo

Thanks for the P/N, I was in the process of changing this hose and was wondering what the part number was as well they had mentioned. Good thing people respond to 2 year old threads. Appreciate it!!

Maelstrom

I'm having the same issue. I know it's likely the coupling and not the hoses that are leaking, but I figure I may as well replace the hoses too. If I wanted to replace with silicone hoses, is this what I'm looking for? https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-sil...et-p-5202.html

Thanks!

QuinnDEskimo

I don’t believe those are the same hoses. You could possibly email Z1 to ask for x-ref numbers though to see what hoses they are replacements for?

dbl07

iTrader: (2)

While you are at it, get the part in the link below. The plastic coupler is prone to fail at any time, which is most likely the cause of your problem. I just replaced the coupler on mine and caught it right on time.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...se-p-9367.html


You can use this product as well, to save money. It is just as good and serves the same purpose, which is the one I purchased for my car and there are no leaks. So, you have two options to use.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-56430

dbl07

iTrader: (2)

Those are the same hoses. The only difference being that z1 sells the entire kit plus those hoses are silicone, which will last significantly longer than the OEM hoses. For absolute peace of mind, one may choose to replace all of those hoses at the same time, although it is not required. It is a personal preference and he can ask z1 to sell him just the two hoses he needs. There is one that connects to the heater unit in the firewall. The second hose connects to the rear lower part of the engine which enables the two hoses to mate by way of the plastic OEM coupler. I used a metal coupler for mine so I won't have to worry about that plastic coupler failing.

This is the coupler that I used for my car. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-56430
I provided two options for those who may prefer one product over the one product. Either way, one will not have to worry about that plastic coupler failing anymore.



This is the one that connects to the fire wall.
https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/Infi...401-JK20A.html

This is the hose that connects to the lower rear part of the engine.
https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/Infi...400-JK200.html

smithy4

I just had failure of same connection on highway at midnite-car went into limp mode but got off road and found broken plastic connector-I appreciate help on parts and hopefully should get me back on road-by the way I have a 2010 g37 with 204K miles-going strong otherwise though may be time for coolant, spark pl;ug, hose maintenance on top of routine oil /filter changes which is about all I have ever done to this daily driver !

Kpmikey808

thank for the part number - this just happened to me & see that 3/4 & 3/4 fitting on both sides is good! Good looking out & all these threads help

gpzkat

I just had my 09 G37 (only 70K miles!) serviced including replacing coolant, which I normally would do myself. One week later this little coupling split in half. Damn. Gates 19625 hose is $8.79 on Amazon, and Gates (edit) 19705 is $5.83 19796 is $6.47. I ordered the Dornan coupling from O'Reilly and will get the tension clamps at the dealer I guess. I bought a couple of long needle nose at Harbor Freight but in the end I got the clamp off the firewall side with a cheapo mini needle nose vice grip. Once clamped I could work on twisting the hose off. I'm not looking forward to the more inaccessible engine side hose tomorrow, but I will endeavor to persevere.

smithy4

I bought a flexible hose clamp remover but the wings broke off and had to resort to using a dremel with and extension flexible hose, mirror, and cut off wheel to remove the hose clamp. Alot of scraped knucles and cursing but finally came off. I managed to use hose clamps with socket set to get new hoses on with metal coupler. Back on the road with no problems.

gpzkat

I did the same, and although that tool pulled the clamp ends together, the cramped location (while trying to see what is going on with a mirror and light) made it impossible to pull off. What a PITA job, took me hours and in the end I resorted to the same method, a Dremel with an extender. If it weren't leaking/broken in two at the coupling, and therefore un-driveable, I'd have paid hundreds not to have to go through this ordeal!

Kpmikey808

Just changed my heater hose connector- it was mos def PITA
only pulled hose from firewall off

bought metal connector 3/4 inch for $4.99 at car quest

plastic connector piece wouldn’t come out & when I finally got it lose it went back inside of the hose

didn't want to pull hose of engine block - that clamp was hard to see & looked like a headache trying to get off & back on

since coolant was drained - got the dyson vacuum & sucked out all the small pieces in the hose with the vacuum

worked like a champ

used hose clamps to finish & saved 140 shop wanted to charge

David Quirarte

I only ended up using one hose with no coupler there were no kinks what would be the down side to this ?

bobbygamer

iTrader: (1)

Man this job is a pita seems like some of the spring clamps are a size too small on mine making alot worse had to cut most of my hoses off driver side hoses are so cramped the lower drivers side needed a long pick and hook hose remover to get off then I trimmed the z1 hose like 1/4inch because I couldn't get it on the passenger side engine one I was able to get off with a long 45 degree needle nose I bought a spring clamp tool but its useless with these undersized clamps probably just going to use wormdrives on all of them even though I don't like them.
I was also wondering why they used a coupler is it supposed to make installation easier somehow?
Either way plan on buying some extra tools or find a friend with very tiny hands and long arms

maxgator

So...I recently did this job and have a couple of suggestions. First though thanks to others here for the info to get me started.

To start, this job can be done without replacing radiator hoses. This saves the hell of trying to get them off the block and firewall. I only figured this out after breaking the tab on the spring clamp on the block and deciding not to take that house off.

Get 2 needle nose pliers. I'd suggest one long and one short. If you have a 90 degree that is ideal. Take the clamps off the connector. Grab either hose with the long ones and pinch it closed behind the connector. Use the other pair to crush the part of the hose that holds the connector. It will break easily into pieces and just pull them out with pliers. The key is to keep the hose pinched so no pieces fall into the hose.

When you buy the new connector also buy new spring clamps...I actually got those from infiniti. They are held open and VERY easy to get on. Just squeeze once in position. And try not to use screw clamps. They do but provide even pressure and have a nasty tendency to leak.

Also use a rubber safe lubricant on the connector and it will go into the hoses easily.

This saves you from experiencing the hell of trying to get those hoses off. Mine were perfect at 110k miles.