Yep there is a gasket, it's a nice quality hard rubber and seems to hold up well over time, mine was in great shape and as long as you don't gouge it when removing the pan you should be able to re-use it.

 

In previous cars i never found the need to replace the gasket. Does anyone know the torque specs for the pan bolts?

 

It's in the DIY link line #3
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...rop-clean.html

 

To the OP, just some tips that I can share if you are doing the DIY...

unplug both O2 sensors (connected by the front of the trans pan - near the refill tube) and wrap them with plastic bags or something to protect the connections....you don't want any accidental spillage of trans fluid to get on them.

you can use the same copper crush washer for the drain plug, but Nissan sells them for cheap (pennies) so it might be good insurance to pick up a couple to have.

just take your time.....

 

Is the copper crush washer the same as the one on the oil drain plug? If so i already have a bunch.

Any idea if the fill tube will work with a Motive Power Fill Pro?

 

This will be the next project I take on. I definitely will be using matic-S because of the Nissan transmission issues I have seen in my maxima with non-oem fluid even matic-S rated/equivalent ones were problematic. The transmissions and valve bodies are touchy about fluid chemistry at least from my experience.

 

I picked up some maxlife ATF as others have reported good success as an alternative to nissan matic s. If I don't like the way it performs i'll pick up the expensive stuff and just do another drain and fill. I'm not concerned that it will cause any damage since I'd notice any issues with TC lockup, slippage or poor shifting long before it caused a problem.

As for the fluid pump, I've decided to buy an cheap garden sprayer and modify it. Basically the same thing as the ATF transfer pumps they're charging 5-10x as much for.

 

Made my own fluid pump with the fill plug adapter, a cheap garden sprayer and some plumbing parts. Total cost with adapter less than $70

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/277625-make-your-own-atf-fluid-pump-on-the-cheap.html#post4060744

 

You've already bought and made one but walmart usually sells the "chemical sprayer" bottle/pump for $10 or so. You can take apart the tip that spreads the spray pattern out and have a direct shot. Use some 3/8 (iirc) clear tubing with a worm clamp for about $20 you have about the same thing just not as fancy.

But this method beats the **** out of a hand pump underneath the car.

Too bad these cars don't come with factory transmission coolers, much easier to flush out all the fluid that way.

 

Wanted to use clear tubing and a ball valve so i could regulate the flow Overall cost for the sprayer, tubing, ball valve and clamps was about $30

 

The one I bought has a handle to start spraying, I just measured how much was drained and filled the same through the sprayer using the handle to shut off the sprayer when I reached how much needed to go back in. I suspect you built yours the same way just had to add the handle.

Have you done this yet?

 

Tomorrow, raining today. I could have used the tubing and sprayer handle, but I wanted to use an actual adapter that screws into the fill hole and i wanted more tubing (and clear tubing at that). I also didn't trust that the valve one a $10 sprayer handle would hold up.

So, yeah, i guess you could do it cheaper, but i wanted to do it as cheap as possible with the same exact functionality as the professional tool they sell for way too much money.

 

I gotcha, I used clear tubing but its after the black tubing and handle that the sprayer comes with. You'll have to post back after you change out the fluid, I probably need to have mine done (77k now) but wanted to see if I can find a return/send port where I can have it drain from and fill to make the job a little faster vs using the factory drain/fill

 

I think this is as easy as it gets. If you wanted it to be even easier, you could probably find a sprayer with a 3-4 gallon reservoir. You could just leave it connected with the valve turned off while you ran the car to mix the fluid, which would make your fill cycles as easy as twisting the valve and flowing in 3-4qts of fluid.