JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I can't remember if it was here or on the 370z, but removing the studs from the MC before removal makes it easier to maneuver it out.

There's two variations of the MC, one with a damper (g37) and one without (370z). The latter is easier to install. Functionally they're supposedly the same. I'd guess the 370z one might have a bit more nvh. Doubt it makes a difference to anyone as most of us have louder than stock exhausts and a little nvh in the pedal probably won't make a difference.

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

too bad i didnt know about this earlier. woulda been nice to have the z mc oh well. the damper thing is wat makes removal hard. the studs didnt matter much to me. the suggestion was to remove only the pass side stud to make things easier.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

^^Did you have to bend lines to get it out? What was the trick?

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

i did the abs suggestion that helped and removed the bolt and rubber spacer attached to the abs bracket thats right next to the mc. that gave a little more room. still was tight but was able to get the mc out enough away from the firewall. then i got stuck at the damper thing. i got my wheel lug nut wrench and used the L shaped end underneath the damper and tapped it upwards and it was free. odd part is it was a lot easier to get the new mc in i just lined up the stud into the firewall and forced it downwards and it slid right down. was very strange lol

gimmeshelter67

Just got around to checking out the Clutch pedal. Reservoir is full but pushing the clutch in and out manually (Won't return on it's own) doesn't even move fluid with the cap off.

I can see where the master cylinder is. Tommorrow I will get something to get all the fluid out.

I see that there's a master cylinder rebuild kit. Should I just change the master cylinder or try the rebuild kit?

Doug

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

Read fool

gimmeshelter67

No movement in the reservoir. no bubbles.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

If the pedal was very easy to modulate, I'd say it points to the master more than the slave. Once the slave starts to leak, the clutch still works until all the fluid from the reservoir is pumped out. You end up with an empty reservoir. In your case it's remaining full but no fluid is moving.

I suppose you could try rebuilding it if you have the right tools. I'd be partial to just replacing it so you know you're getting a good working part.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

I would just replace it. If you rebuild it and for some reason it still doesn't work you might sit and wonder if it was rebuilt properly or not. At least if you replace it and it still doesn't work you rule out that it was the MC.

gimmeshelter67

Finally got my car fixed. My time was limited so last week I was able to get to it.

I purchased the Master Cylinder and Dot 4 Brake Fluid.

I started by getting all of the brake fluid out of the reservoir and line by using a large syringe. That emptied everything up to the master cylinder.

I then removed the reservoir and black hose.

Disconnected the line going down to the transmission.

I jacked up the car to make it easier to work on the clutch pedal assembly instead of having to work on it at ground level.

I first removed the pin that held the master cylinder rod to the clutch assembly.

As I was trying to remove the rod I noticed the clutch helper spring was bending as i moved the pedal to the floor. Removal of the spring helper revealed that the top part that holds the spring in place was sheared. There's a pin that goes into the bottom part that was sheared off.

I couldn't find the part in town so I ended up ordering the whole clutch assembly for $99 on ebay.

Got that part in and finished the fix. I removed the nuts from the master cylinder screw studs, then actually took out the whole clutch assembly which was held on by those two nuts and one on the top of the clutch assembly. There's also two wire to disconnect. One for the check switch for starting and the other i'm assuming for cruise control.

I used a set of lock pliers and removed the bottom screw stud from the master cylinder. (The master cylinder is mounted at an angle.)

The stud removed made it a lot easier to get the master cylinder out but it was still tricky with the damper on the original master cylinder. I finally got the master into position to remove.

The new master cylinder went into place in less than a minute. Got everything back in place and on in less than 30 minutes. I filled the reservoir with Dot 4.

The pedal had the same problem even though the new master cylinder had much more resistance than the old one.

I purchased a set of Jack stands and got the car off the ground with enough clearance for me to slide under. Once I located the bleed valve I pulled off the black cap and had my friend manually pump the clutch pedal. NOTHING. same problem.

At this point I was thinking it could be the concentric slave inside the transmission.

We kept pumping the clutch pedal until something started to come out. It was really dark and dirty and oozed out. Once the reservoir was empty we repeated 3 more times. Finally the fluid coming out was clear and free of any trash (dried burnt brake fluid?)

Clutch works fine now. I put 1600k miles on it last weekend without one problem.

I'll check out the fluid in a couple of weeks to see if it's still good.

Thanks for all the help and information.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Glad to hear you got your issues resolved.

Just to clarify a few points above, when you refer to clutch assembly, you're actually talking about the clutch _pedal_ assembly, correct?

Not sure how the top pin got sheared. There's a retaining clip holding it, and a similar one for the bottom pin. Someone must of had their hands in there at some point and never replaced the original clip.

Any time you open a hydraulic line (clutch, brakes, etc), it must be bled for proper operation. Replacing the mc and filling the reservoir is not enough as you discovered.

Also, i'm sure you did this already, but both the top and bottom switches (cruise and start, respectively) must be adjusted properly. Incorrect adjustment of the top may prevent full clutch engagement. Improper adjustment of the bottom one will cause difficulty in shifting (clutch won't disengage fully).

gimmeshelter67

Yes, I meant the whole clutch pedal assembly.

Here's a photo of the sheared part.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Wow.. The whole shaft broke. I thought it was the retaining pin (one at the top, other at the bottom). I think i've seen one other post about this breaking on here. Rare for sure. I'd guess if it was run without a spring at some point, it jammed up against the lower piece (that it slides into).

gimmeshelter67

Everything is working fine. I'm so glad to have my G37 back. Already put 2700 miles on it since the fix. I got the car at 21K miles (2008 model purchased in 2011) and it was at 50K when the clutch master went out.

Now if I can just get the passenger side leak and my dashboard fixed (Glue seeping out everywhere and cracking)