RickyBobby

I took the G to the track today for the first time. Not great, but not bad. 15.77 and then 15.60 at Bandimere in Colorado, better than the other 3 Infinitis that ran and only worse than the modded 370z running 15.1. I was never spinning my wheels at launch (shooting for low 3000s), so on my third run I tried to launch at higher RPMs (like low 4000s). When I let out the clutch pedal, it never really bogged the engine and felt like a perfect launch except for it was slower and the clutch pedal stuck to the floor until I shifted into second, and shifted normally to the end finishing in the low 17 seconds.
Glad I made it down the track because for a second I thought I was screwed, I left immediately after not wanting to risk another.
Do you think it is the CSC failure causing the pedal to stick or is my clutch llikely going as well? (I'm sure you're thinking: clutch---ya think?) after this post but hopefully I can get clarification on this whole slave cylinder issue as well. Not gonna lie, I do love to do drift a bit and an occasional street launch/burnout, but I usually try to use the momentum of the car on a turn rather than use the clutch. I have noticed though that when I try to do burnouts it is inconsistent--cant tell if the wheels are spinning or the same instance is happening (or if I forgot to turn VDC off).
I do have the RJM clutch pedal but haven't yet installed it as I'm having an awful time unhooking the clips, bolts...


Also since we're on the subject, what is a good clutch/light flywheel combo that is a good blend of performance but not horrible noise?

RickyBobby

Ok so for those that may have ended up here with the same problems, here is what I have learned so I can be adding something to the forum.
-Common issue when hard launching (4k RPMs and above)
Probably not the clutch, but am always researching which type clutch/flywheel I want for the inevitable replacement.
-If while driving, the clutch pedal engages lower and lower until almost to the floor, it is either a slave/master cylinder issue or something smaller. Save cost, and start with the small issues. The easiest and cheapest way (although not most effective) is to open the clutch fluid reservoir, suck out to the minimum level with a syringe/baster and replace with fluid to the max fill line (motul RBF 600 works), cap it, pump the clutch pedal SLOWLY (once per every few seconds to not froth the system). This will circulate the system, then repeat the process over and over until the fluid is mostly clean. If air is in the system or if you want to completely flush the system, you will need to do a proper bleed of the system. Have a buddy depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold while you use a bleeder tool on the nipple to open/close the bleeder valve while the pedal is depressed--probably check a DIY for specifics).
Don't forget to check for any leaks in the hydraulic line underneath.

I'm at work right now so I haven't done this, and like I stated I hope the RJM clutch pedal with a system flush does wonders. Also planning on putting steel braided clutch hydraulic lines on the car at some point, especially if I put on high flow cats.

If any conversation ever starts from this thread, what are your thoughts dual mass flywheels? Do they come lightened over OEM while maintaining fit for those who don't want their vehicles to sound like a diesel engine? Is either a sprung/unsprung clutch helpful for reducing noise? What clutch setup would you recommend for a guy like me?
Obviously I will be needing a clutch someday whether it is from killing it myself here shortly, or just wanting to upgrade for better grab on launches and wheel spins.
Sorry if I'm asking a lot. The more information I get on the board, the less questions I have to ask the guys at the tuning shop and the better they can focus on current projects

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Did your car not reek of burnt clutch friction material when you launched it? 4000 RPM is far too high to launch your car.

I don't know of any dual mass aftermarket flywheels for our car. Every lightened flywheel will have some additional noise associated with it. Some more than others. There are lightweight billet steel ones that are (IMO) better than the aluminum ones. They are made from a single billet rather than an aluminum insert that's attached. Whenever you do end up replacing clutch be sure to replace the CSC at the same time, it's prone to failure and should be replaced anytime the clutch is.