Hey guys,
I was cruising on the freeway and the car randomly popped out of gear in D as if it was in neutral. I pulled over and turned it off and back on and it was driving normal again. it happened once again a few days later and i went through the same procedure by turning it off and back on but this time the shifting was off. mainly in 3rd gear, the rpms would spike then it would shift. i took it to a shop to scan it for codes. the only code that came up was a P1734. you guys have ideas on what could be going on? I'm boosted with the stillen supercharger and level 10 built my 7AT transmission.

 

Hmm, I'm not a pro in the VQ motors yet but I can almost assure you the emissions code wouldn't affect the shifting points. Seeing as you have a built trans I would call the shop that did the work and consult with them, ask if there are any known issues or a way to reset the trans ECU or something? Popping out of gear is something that would happen if you had worn motor mounts or bad fluids, at least in the manual world, not so sure on the AT though.. Good luck man.

 

If you don't have the tools/skills take it to a shop, else see FSM, TM-210

P1734 7GR INCORRECT RATIO (Gear 7 Incorrect Ratio)
Description
[7AT: RE7R01A]
This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into 7GR position as instructed by TCM. This is not only caused by electrical malfunction (circuits open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, etc.

Possible Causes:
Input clutch solenoid valve
Direct clutch solenoid valve
High and low reverse clutch solenoid valve
Front brake solenoid valve
Low brake solenoid valve
2346 brake solenoid valve
Anti-interlock solenoid valve
Each clutch and brake
Output speed sensor
Input speed sensor1,2
Hydraulic control circuit

 

Another possibility that you could have a loose syncro in your transmission. Either way doesn't sound safe at all you should really get that checked out man. Gluck brother let us know what it is when you find out and hopefully it isn't that serious of an issue.

 

Automatics don't use synchronizers. They use clutch packs.

 

thanks for the input guys, I'm taking it in tomorrow to figure out exactly what's going on. the transmission is warrantied thankfully. I'll keep you updated.

 

I'm having something similar with my 2011 IPL. At first I'd press the gas pedal and the RPMs would go up but no acceleration for a few seconds then pop into gear. I turned off the traction control and that seemed to help for about 3-4 hours then it went back to doing the same thing. Finally it would take off in 1st and 2nd and that's it, couldn't drive over 45 mph. Took it into the Nissan dealer (No Infiniti dealer here). They've had it since 7am and no word from them. I have a bad feeling it's gonna be something really bad, because I just bought the car 3 weeks ago and no warranty. Ugh!

 

Also, my AC is only cold if set on 60, if I move it up it just blows out hot air. I did just have a Viper security system + remote start put on end of last week. Wondering if they might have messed up the wiring or something? Nah, that would be an easy fix! lol

 

So I finally heard back from the Nissan dealer, they said they are going to have to replace the Valve Body which is $1,428 just for the part and will take 3-5 days to fix. They haven't had time to figure out how much labor will be, but I'm pretty sure it will be as much as the part or more.

 

I would do the the valve body upgrade from Level 10 if I were you. It's gonna cost you about the same amount except with a better valve body

 

Update:
I was going to take the car in the shop to have it looked at but level 10 advised me to ship the car out to them and have them sort it out there so they can make sure there are no more issues. it's on its way now if not there already.

 

Upgrade the broken valve body or the new one?

 

your broken one

 

Did you also consult Sector 7?

 

We'll just got some bad news, they drained the ATF from the transmission and it was full of metal shavings. They said a new transmission would be 9K. Any advice on a different way to handle this would be much appreciated. I've only had the car a month and a week and a half of that it's been at the dealer.