Bocian

Well I'm joining the infamous rear timing cover gasket failure club. Car jerking above 2.5k rpms, cel codes 0300 and 0524, misfire and oil pressure so I'm certain that this is the culprit since my g fits the time intervals for this crap to happen, 2009 g37s sedan with 83k. I've been researching this crap for the last two days and I'm not quite sure which gaskets I need. I've seen different posts of different part numbers and different number of gaskets being replaced. I want to do everything right the first time and since I'm in there I want to do everything I can since I'm going to have the front of my engine opened up like that. I'll definitely going to replace the spark plugs, any other suggestions?
I'm going to have a friend do the work with me ("with" meaning I'll be holding the flashlight, I can do a lot around the car but I'm nowhere near comfortable getting inside the timing chain) he's done it before on a 370z so at least I won't have to lube up for a dealer rape which would be around 3k from what I've been reading. So could anyone give me some ideas, stuff to look out for? And most importantly, which and how many gaskets I need to replace. Thanks a lot, and my heart goes out to anyone else dealing with this bs out of warranty, damn paper gaskets, nice one Nissan...

Already had the clutch slave cylinder go out on me, also out of warranty, now this, I'm the essence of bad luck with this car, can't wait to see what's next...

EDIT: Just found this,

"Looks like the gasket is usually the cause. Seems these are the common gaskets that are replaced.
Timing Chain Cover Gasket Rear
Gasket Oil Gallery - JK21A
Gasket Front Cover - JK21B
Gasket Solenoid EY01A & JA10B"

So that's 4 gaskets? Or 5? I've only became informed of all these gaskets a couple of days ago

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Shoot a PM to Black Betty he should have the info, & VQsmile, but he's not around too often.
G/L, I'm a bit nervous as my 09 is @75k right now.

Bocian

Thanks I'll do that.
Yea it's a shame that they used subpar gaskets in such an intricate place. Takes a bit away from enjoying your g with that looming over your head. And from what I read, it doesn't matter if your redlining every day or keeping it below 3k rpms, it's a crap shoot when and if the gasket will blow, glad I wasn't far from home when mine blew. Obviously there isn't a guarantee it'll happen to you but if anyone is nearing the end of their powertrain warranty, get your oil pressure checked often, you definitely want this done under warranty

m3clubracer

Somehow I feel this will be my fate as my luck goes...subscribed. Is there a write-up for the process or FSM?

Bocian

As far as write ups, there's this
How To Remove Timing Chain Cover, Valve Cover, Timing Chain - G35Driver
That's on a vq35 and the motor is out of the car
I'd gladly do a writeup but we decided on a per hour rate with my mechanic friend so it would be an expensive writeup since the job is already a long and tedious one

Check out lage 89, it's not gonna be a walk in the park, that's for sure
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2010/EM.pdf

krazyfiend

Along with Bocian's links... Black Betty along with others forged the way for information particular to our application in this thread (stick with it, lots of tech info and the discussion of the gaskets themselves littered throughout-- more so towards the later pages)...

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...xperience.html

Bocian

Man that's a lot of reading but great info, thanks for the link. I still have one question and this goes out to whoever did this job themselves, other then the two old, paper, now metal, gaskets, what else will I need to replace when doing this job? Obviously we're not going to remove the back cover, just the front cover and chain to get to the gaskets but on the way there what seals and/or other gasket will need replacing? I'd really love to have all the parts for the job before tearing into it and definitely don't want to redo this due to reusing something that should have been replaced. Thank you all in advance

empirepb48

Keeping on the track with the OP's last question. I'm still curious to where the oil is going when this leaks. Is it burning somewhere, leaking outside of the motor or is it simply losing pressure in a pressurized area and leaking internally?

Bocian

I think the oil stays between the timing chain covers and I don't think it leaks enough to actually have it drip out the bottom, the problem is the oil pressure dropping and causing misfires above ~2.5k rpms.

Well I'm set to have this started next Wednesday (11/11) hopefully will be done by the weekend as its only going to be worked on after work.
Here is a list of what I'm going to be replacing/buying from the dealer
-2 valve cover gaskets
-Oil pan gasket
-Intake valve cover control gasket bank 1 and 2
-Timing chain cover gasket
-Main pulley oil seal
-The two busted old paper gasket
-Dipstick o-ring

I'll be checking the timing chain, the guides and timing gears when I'm in there, at 83k, who knows. I'm also considering changing the water pump and thermostat since accessibility will be there. I'll update on how it all goes and once it's all done I'll know more about this whole ordeal so if anyone wants any help with this, feel free to contact me and I'll help as much as I possibly can. This paper gasket bs out of warranty is simply unfair, as many in this situation will concurr

m3clubracer

Where are you located? I would like to help if only to take pictures and document. Are you going to use something other then paper gaskets? Is nothing else offered?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

That would be awesome if you could detail the procedure as it goes along w/ pics and tips along the way. Would be a valuable resource for sure, hopefully I won't be going through this but if so, would be great to have that resource.
G/L

nelledge

The gaskets are metal. The BB thread referenced above is lengthy, but you'll find a ton of information in it. I have seen several questions asked in this thread that were answered in his. It's a very good resource. Didn't take me long to peruse the relevant information. Anyone concerned about this issue should start there. No reason to reinvent the wheel.

Splitpi

Perhaps the chain tensioner?

I just remember back to the days on my 4G63s of always changing the tensioners and pulley's when ever I touched the timing belt... and water pump for that matter aswell. It was cheap insurance to ensure the timing belt had no issues. I would do this even if the tensioner only had like 1K miles on it, I would still replace it and pulleys if I changed the belt.

Bocian

I'm not sure how much I'll be able to document this as I'm pulling several favors to get this done and time will be a huge constraint. My mechanic friend will be coming over to another friends shop after work so time will be a precious commodity since I will be occupying a lift that is constantly needed for them to work. I'm in Philly but like I said, I'm already getting in their way a bit. I'll do the best I'll be able to

Bocian

Absolutely agree but the wheel was also refined after it was invented. BB's thread is as comprehensive as it gets but this is a common and very expensive ordeal for a good number of us out of warranty people so another perspective can only help people deal with this obvious flaw by infiniti engineering