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I thought the same thing, that I might have been too hard on the car but I'm really even wasn't and after reading and reading, it's exactly what BB said, it makes no difference how you drive for this to happen.
Getting a new engine is a huge expense, the engine itself isn't the problem at all, it's just a gasket, imo I'd rather changed the gasket and replace some maintenance parts while in there and have a completely (hopefully) worry free motor in my car as opposed to a used one which could have the same thing happen, unless the new motor falls in the years of this gasket not being paper, either way, GL
I bought a used motor and swapped it myself and it cost me about $2600. There's no way a replacement engine with labor is going to cost less than this repair.
I'm contemplating doing this job myself after I practice on my old motor first. Should run me a couple hundred at most without replacing the timing chain guides and related parts. My motor has about 50k and won't need any of it replaced yet.
guess it just depends where u live. here in atlanta area ive seen one for 1300
i was gonna buy a engine for 1500 but that guy raised the price to 2000. engine had less than 100 miles on it. so i found the $500 engine first for 1000. then he lowered to 800, finally picked it up for 500
i was gonna buy a engine for 1500 but that guy raised the price to 2000. engine had less than 100 miles on it. so i found the $500 engine first for 1000. then he lowered to 800, finally picked it up for 500
You get what you pay for I guess. How many miles were on it? Mine came with 47k, all accessories and a super clean block.
its a 2010 50k mile engine, btw you have hr engine not a VHR. as far as clean block.... i dont think anyone else gonna be seeing it but me.
I know what motor I bought. They're around the same cost for either. I'm just saying you get what you pay for. For me, having all the extra parts was helpful. Also replacing the higher 80k mile pulleys, alternator etc was nice because those parts won't fail as soon now. It was worth it for me. It also left me with a motor I can build. For a core motor, it's a decent price. I'm just picky when it comes to the condition of the block. Mine looked like a new motor eveywhere.
I have a 2008 EX35 crossover with 79K miles now. (VQ35HR engine on 5 speed AT). I had this issue when my car was at 76k miles and not sure if also switching from regular oil to full synthetic oil a year ago quickens the progression of the oil seep behind the timing chain cover. Full synthetic oil is a lot slippery and can penetrate through weaker area of the seal.
My car was under warranty and dealer fixed it with just me paying a $50 deductible. I was quoted for a 16 hour job and cost $2800. I decided to pay an extra $120 to replace my water pump since they are going in there anyway and I am keeping the car.
I have a 2008 EX35 crossover with 79K miles now. (VQ35HR engine on 5 speed AT). I had this issue when my car was at 76k miles and not sure if also switching from regular oil to full synthetic oil a year ago quickens the progression of the oil seep behind the timing chain cover. Full synthetic oil is a lot slippery and can penetrate through weaker area of the seal.
My car was under warranty and dealer fixed it with just me paying a $50 deductible. I was quoted for a 16 hour job and cost $2800. I decided to pay an extra $120 to replace my water pump since they are going in there anyway and I am keeping the car.
Wow this is really helpful i was the under impression there was no visible sign of oil seep. Only thing now is understanding in reference to where the circled location is or perhaps a zoomed out picture.
Wow this is really helpful i was the under impression there was no visible sign of oil seep. Only thing now is understanding in reference to where the circled location is or perhaps a zoomed out picture.
I raised this question in Black Betty's thread about the external oil seep. In his case there was no external leak, leak was only internal in the timing chain cover. That's why the only ways to tell is either do an oil pressure test, or the CEL is on.
My car has some black oil gunk at that exact spot. It's been there for a while. I have been checking my oil pressure whenever I do an oil change, so far it's been OK *knock on wood*.
I raised this question in Black Betty's thread about the external oil seep. In his case there was no external leak, leak was only internal in the timing chain cover. That's why the only ways to tell is either do an oil pressure test, or the CEL is on.
My car has some black oil gunk at that exact spot. It's been there for a while. I have been checking my oil pressure whenever I do an oil change, so far it's been OK *knock on wood*.
How are you checking your oil pressure during oil changes? Why not just install a gauge? I've been wanting to install a gauge, but I don't know where to place it without ruining the OEM look of the interior with some after though gauge.
Infiniti neglecting to add an oil gauge after using a paper gasket really makes no sense to me. The Z has an oil pressure gauge, my neighbors Chevy truck has an oil pressure gauge, but this Infiniti doesn't come with one. Sorry, I can rant all day.
11-05-2015, 09:26 AM
Sorry, I can rant all day.