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To each their own, but I've built an LS1 GTO from 285whp to 400whp N/A and you would be surprised how quick you get used to bumps in power like 10whp/30wtq. My cam swap added 65whp and 25wtq and cost $1500 with parts and labor. Our cars are maxed out 6 cylinders with not all that much room for improvement. Also, consider that aftermarket valve springs typically have much shorter life spans and may need to be replaced down the road, requiring taking everything apart again. You could drop 7k in an n/a build and still have a car slower than a stock 2011 mustang GT.
The only feasible options I see for these cars are boltons and gears, FI, or sell it and buy a better platform for adding power. That said, I'm a sucker for build threads and look forward to seeing the results of people that decide to build their motor N/A.
Agree with some of this, The V8 cars are always easier to mod, and our VQ is almost at it limits in stock tirm, but there is power to be had just not tons like a GTO,
Slower than a stock GT, IF I ever was pulled on by a stock GT I'd crash my car . And I dont have 7k into it.
if you are looking for that kinda power i wouldn't have wasted a dime on any N/A part for the car..
It wasn't on my mind in my early stages of my build. Found it hard dropping 10 racks on a turbo kit, and then to install I have to drop the motor. S/c was even worse to spend the same 10 racks to be limited to 420hp wasn't cutting it either. The only mod I "wish" i didn't do is the gears because whenever I go boost traction will be an issue once I'm in 1st -2nd gear. But then again. I'm enjoying the ish outta the gears so if i go boost, just more fun/tires for me.
i would rather drop 7k in my car than drive around a Ford mustang..
those cars are just ugly to me!
my next car will be a totally different story..as i will move to a twin turbo or supercharged car next..
by the time i'm done i'm sure ill have well over 10k invested..
dropping the motor is going to make me move to a dry sump oil system since the engine will be tore down and whatever else my tuner recommends at the time to see if we can get some more power out of it..
but at least i will be able to prove if a product makes power or not by getting before and after dyno results.
A friend of mine wants a LS7 transplant into a Boxter S. I bet a Fard engine will fit in yer Nissan there...
i would rather drop 7k in my car than drive around a Ford mustang..
those cars are just ugly to me!
my next car will be a totally different story..as i will move to a twin turbo or supercharged car next..
by the time i'm done i'm sure ill have well over 10k invested..
dropping the motor is going to make me move to a dry sump oil system since the engine will be tore down and whatever else my tuner recommends at the time to see if we can get some more power out of it..
but at least i will be able to prove if a product makes power or not by getting before and after dyno results.
I love my G and would much rather have a high 13 second G with all the styling, steering, ride/handling and amenities that come with it as opposed to a low 12 second mustang. That said, I do wish this car had a bit more pickup. My last car was an LS2 GTO with 550whp so I'm a bit jaded. Had I stretched my budget another 5-10k, I would be in either an s5 or e92 M3. If you love this car and are okay with being slower than a tuned 335 with 10k into an N/A build than all the power to you. These cars look and sound amazing and I can't wait to see what she does once you're done.
Originally Posted by ANMVQ
Agree with some of this, The V8 cars are always easier to mod, and our VQ is almost at it limits in stock tirm, but there is power to be had just not tons like a GTO,
Slower than a stock GT, IF I ever was pulled on by a stock GT I'd crash my car . And I dont have 7k into it.
Now a 5.0 we can talk
The 2011 GT is the 5.0 and they trap around 112 stock. I've never seen an N/A g37 trap that high. It seems even the full bolton/gears cars don't get past 107 or so. I love these cars but if you want to go fast in a straight line, you need to go FI. Used blower for $4,500, $1,500 install and tune, $1,500 clutch (including install) and be happy with your 410whp G that can keep up with all the fun cars (v8 m3, ls3 camaro, 5.0 mustang, c63, etc)
The 2011 GT is the 5.0 and they trap around 112 stock. I've never seen an N/A g37 trap that high. It seems even the full bolton/gears cars don't get past 107 or so. I love these cars but if you want to go fast in a straight line, you need to go FI. Used blower for $4,500, $1,500 install and tune, $1,500 clutch (including install) and be happy with your 410whp G that can keep up with all the fun cars (v8 m3, ls3 camaro, 5.0 mustang, c63, etc)
True about the 5.0 traps being 5 MPH higher than a bolted G( Mine is 105mph, could be a bit quicker) but didn't think GT as the 5.0. GT= :/ not to get off but have pulled away from many, the 5.0 only 2 times and nose to nose till we got off.
I still like the 5.0 and love the way the sound but the refinement of the G is better and would be happy being 5 MPH slower
I love my G and would much rather have a high 13 second G with all the styling, steering, ride/handling and amenities that come with it as opposed to a low 12 second mustang. That said, I do wish this car had a bit more pickup. My last car was an LS2 GTO with 550whp so I'm a bit jaded. Had I stretched my budget another 5-10k, I would be in either an s5 or e92 M3. If you love this car and are okay with being slower than a tuned 335 with 10k into an N/A build than all the power to you. These cars look and sound amazing and I can't wait to see what she does once you're done.
The 2011 GT is the 5.0 and they trap around 112 stock. I've never seen an N/A g37 trap that high. It seems even the full bolton/gears cars don't get past 107 or so. I love these cars but if you want to go fast in a straight line, you need to go FI. Used blower for $4,500, $1,500 install and tune, $1,500 clutch (including install) and be happy with your 410whp G that can keep up with all the fun cars (v8 m3, ls3 camaro, 5.0 mustang, c63, etc)
i didn't buy the car to compare it to a turbo 335i..and just because someone is driving a car that on paper says it's faster than your's doesn't mean they always win..i have raced lots of fast cars and they are surprised when they get beat.
this car is just for fun..my next car will be a very different story.
and honestly if i was going FI in these cars i wouldn't be supercharged.twin turbo is the way to go...
saying these cars cant get up with v8 m3, ls3 camaro, 5.0 mustang, c63, etc is false..you don't need FI to do that.
Last edited by chuckie311; 10-01-2015 at 10:39 AM.
"! love my G and would much rather have a high 13 second G with all the styling, steering, ride/handling and amenities that come with it as opposed to a low 12 second mustang. That said, I do wish this car had a bit more pickup. My last car was an LS2 GTO with 550whp so I'm a bit jaded. Had I stretched my budget another 5-10k, I would be in either an s5 or e92 M3."
Coming from a BMW background nothing handles like a BMW but I'm jaded too. The Crapstang is real close to an e92 and the real deal. Read about it and and drive one. It's a bargain e92. I took a long time to find something and settled for my G37. If I had money I'd have an e92. Possibly will in the future.
Better if you are reving past 7000 all the time. The C1 look like they hold a better mid-range for the normal typical driver. I think they each have their own merits depending on the build. I do wish there was better comparable data however. The stark difference in base dyno numbers between the two cars almost makes me wonder a lot about how comparable they are.
I agree I wish there was Better breakdown.. buy with my gearing the low end to me is almost worthless except for 1st gear.. I'm usually always above 3k while driving and always in the upper powder band..I wish I could give a better breakdown when I install mine next year,but while the engine is pulled I'm doing head work along with porting my lower intake manifold and going with a 3 inch intake and upgraded oil pump..
That's my plan. I have AAM's 2.75" intake now with some bellmouths, ported TBs upper and lower manifold; but plan on going up to 3.25" with bellmouths, shaftless 72mm TBs, a custom upper manifold and ported lowers. I already have +1mm valves and C1 cams. Was going to get the heads ported and go from there. Got SuckerPunch's oil pump and plate, Teflon crank scrapper and windage baffle. I picked up a spare engine this summer and a VQ40 crank, have been slowly sending parts off to get WPC treated and machined. Will most likely bump up to a 3.69 final so I am sure I will be in the same boat as you with no longer seeing the low to mid 2k RPMs.
I tried to do an overlay of the two dynos, but it just didn't really make sense with the C2 guys numbers being so low. If I lined them up presuming the C1 and C2 dyno baselines where the same at 5252 RPMs the C2 only have gains over the C1s between 4750-5750 and then their nice plateau at 7250 and dropping off at 8000. But before 4500 they are not that great in comparison to the C1s and on par with them everywhere that is not those two small areas. But again, that's using data that has now been confirmed from two different dynos with WAY different baselines.
That said, I already have the C1s. It would be only $500 or so to get just the C2 cams (since I already have the springs and sort). If we can get some more data to accurately compare them that would be great, but right now it looks like a really weird grind on the C2s that might be more specialized for the turbo guys.
I look forward to seeing your build.!I'm hoping to get mine done before spring, but we all know how things can go. Right now I am trying to decide if I want to bump up to 12.0:1 or not (already running flex and we readily have 93 and 110 at a lot of pumps in my area), and trying to figure out this upper manifold for the huge TBs.
Yep, there are three different front diffs that match the rears we can get for our chassis: 3.133 (i recommend for high HP turbo builds), 3.357 (stock), and 3.692. The 3.692 final front diff can be found in the:
And they are all direct swaps. The 3.133 is from a 2007+ EX35 and EX37 AWD models; also direct swaps. I got myself a 2013 FX37 front diff with low miles, checked the ratio: spot on 3.692 exact match with the 2016 A/T NISMO 370z final I got with a LSD. I think I paid at the low end of $500 total for them both, shipped and with fresh seals to put in them.
I know the data is pretty skewed, but its hard to say the C2s are really that much better when the C2 car had long tubes on it as well as an intake and cat-back. I am hoping we get better data soon to compare. Actual data on the cams would be nice too. At least duration and lift.
09-29-2015 | 01:02 PM
. And I dont have 7k into it. 
