To each there own but I think your nuts, LOL If it makes you happy tho

5k I'd go FI :/

 

LOL 5k is just a start for FI
its more like 25k to go FI no thanks!!
I would rather have a more reliable built N/A motor
if stage 2 cam lets say makes 20whp and 40wtq ill take it
less than 3 weeks we will see what the headers make there was 2500 spent so what would an extra 1100 on top of that for a cam that might be better results..

 

I don't know what turbo kit costs 5k, but some people don't want to go fi, me included. cams and headers and some good tuning could produce some solid numbers. not everyone needs or wants 500whp, it's just not practical or necessary for the street. if chuckie gets maybe around 340-350 whp with his setup, that would be great. 400hp all motor would be a blast to drive, especially with the 4.08 gears.

 

I agree not down for FI on a high compression engine.

 

I'm only dropping my motor to put in a built one. At that time and that time only would I consider the cam gears. For that 5k. That's a down payment for boost which is fine for me

 

I cant see spending the money for FI 20-25k i would rather drop the money on a down payment for another car..
while the motor is out ill probably change out the injectors and go E85 as well for more power..

 

Because to even spend 20+25k on IF is INSANE. I was only into my car for close to 15K, Yes it was the first X Coupe, so it was unique in that sense, But for me to spend past the 9k I original invested was dumb, and the motor popped. I should have just left it alone( 9k) and been happy with the 412 WHP I was making, You'll NEVER see onver 400 WHP with out FI and if you do you'll spend more than the 9k I spent of my SC. You're going to be into you car for what close to 7k and HOPE you'll make 350 WHP :/, Closer to 330 IMO

 

if I was going FI I would not do a supercharger.. I would go fast intentions twin turbo and then do a level 5 transmission.. so lets say that's about 15k there plus i'm sure 2k for install..
I'm not looking for a specific whp number or chasing a 400whp N/A we all know every dyno puts put different numbers so kinda pointless.im more or less using it as a tool for how much power I make when installing parts or tuning.
the real numbers come from the track. which I'm going to try and get to this winter..
after cam install and all my other parts ill have 10k invested in my car..

My next car will be a different story as it will be FI From the dealer
when I buy it

 

Agreee 100% man.
Your track times will show your WHP, and not chasing a WHP then why mod the car at all? If you 1/4 tracking the car then it'd be nice to see 12's NA, you'll need close to 350 WHP to get there even with the 4.08's. We all know I must be lucky with the dyno that I use. I was @ 302 WHP and went and rean 13.5 @ 105= 302 WHP.

Agree also with the next car thing, Mine will be the same, Been looking at the 335's alot :/

1/4 Mile ET Calculator

 

i have been looking at the new C63s mercedes or corvette Z06 since i get a discount on those..
but its still up in the air might even go used GTR if i can find one very low miles and its great deal

 

I guess I'm chasing HP because I want 500-550whp and 450+wtq ... and spending equal amt of money to n/a mods for minimal gain.

 

if you are looking for that kinda power i wouldn't have wasted a dime on any N/A part for the car..

 

The cam in these cars had better be on the order of 50+ HP or TQ with injectors, intake, and header+ehaust!

 

To each their own, but I've built an LS1 GTO from 285whp to 400whp N/A and you would be surprised how quick you get used to bumps in power like 10whp/30wtq. My cam swap added 65whp and 25wtq and cost $1500 with parts and labor. Our cars are maxed out 6 cylinders with not all that much room for improvement. Also, consider that aftermarket valve springs typically have much shorter life spans and may need to be replaced down the road, requiring taking everything apart again. You could drop 7k in an n/a build and still have a car slower than a stock 2011 mustang GT.

The only feasible options I see for these cars are boltons and gears, FI, or sell it and buy a better platform for adding power. That said, I'm a sucker for build threads and look forward to seeing the results of people that decide to build their motor N/A.

 

i would rather drop 7k in my car than drive around a Ford mustang..
those cars are just ugly to me!
my next car will be a totally different story..as i will move to a twin turbo or supercharged car next..
by the time i'm done i'm sure ill have well over 10k invested..
dropping the motor is going to make me move to a dry sump oil system since the engine will be tore down and whatever else my tuner recommends at the time to see if we can get some more power out of it..
but at least i will be able to prove if a product makes power or not by getting before and after dyno results.