RJM Performance Clutch Pedal Assembly
#61
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well, damn. now this means i have to go and buy the RJM. it seems that even for a guy who didn't mind the OE setup this is a no-brainer considering minimal cost and relatively straightforward DIY. i suppose it will make the car easier to sell (whenever that happens) so maybe a return there as well...trying to convince myself.
thanks to Rochester for a great write-up. i'll be referencing a few handy bits when i do my inevitable install. after reading this yesterday i paid special attention to my clutch feel on the way to work today. yeah, i guess there is room for improvement. lol.
thanks to Rochester for a great write-up. i'll be referencing a few handy bits when i do my inevitable install. after reading this yesterday i paid special attention to my clutch feel on the way to work today. yeah, i guess there is room for improvement. lol.
#62
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#63
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There's an allen-head bolt used to lock down the dial. I think it's time to lock that down. With approximately 10 full turns available, I put it at full counter-clockwise, then back one turn. This for absolutely no scientific reason whatsoever.
The ignition sensor is engaged at nearly full depression of the pedal. I think it could probably come up 1/16th or so, but also don't think it matters. It works.
The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two. Although getting under the dash and accessing these nuts is a real PITA.
The ignition sensor is engaged at nearly full depression of the pedal. I think it could probably come up 1/16th or so, but also don't think it matters. It works.
The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two. Although getting under the dash and accessing these nuts is a real PITA.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-28-2015 at 04:53 PM.
#65
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In normal running operation, Cruise Control is supposed to shut off when you depress the clutch pedal. The little plunger on the sensor top/front is depressed (circuit engaged) when the clutch pedal is fully released, allowing for the Cruise Control circuit to complete. As soon as you press the clutch pedal, you release that little plunger switch (circuit broken) and turn off Cruise Control.
The plunger on that switch extends like a tiny d1ck out of the end of the sensor, and hits against a white, plastic pad (striker) on the assembly. If the distance between this the striker and the switch is too close, then the Cruise Sensor itself is actually depressing the pedal, in a very subtle way, but nonetheless it's not good for the sensor, and it's not good for the actual clutch. It would be like "riding" the clutch, by always leaving your foot on it with just the weight of your foot for pressure. That's not a good thing. (If you're doing that, stop it. If you know better, sorry.)
As far as I understand this, with the pedal fully released, you want the pedal striker to depress the plunger in the sensor without actually resting on the switch with any force. In order to accomplish this, you have to back off on the two retaining nuts that hold the sensor in place.
How am I doing?
Last edited by Rochester; 07-28-2015 at 11:50 PM.
#66
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got it - makes sense...don't want the cruise switch applying any pressure to the clutch pedal.
so when you say:
"The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two."
you mean you are turning something on the cruise control switch?
so when you say:
"The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two."
you mean you are turning something on the cruise control switch?
#68
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got it - makes sense...don't want the cruise switch applying any pressure to the clutch pedal.
so when you say:
"The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two."
you mean you are turning something on the cruise control switch?
so when you say:
"The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two."
you mean you are turning something on the cruise control switch?
[edit]
I just backed the cruise control switch away from the striker by maybe two threads (two rotations), tightened it back up, and it seems perfect. When you touch the pedal, there is an extremely small play now that doesn't actually cause the main clutch shaft to move. Add a little more pressure, and then there is a slightly larger amount of play, which is all in the main shaft itself. Add full pressure and then there's engagement with the clutch shaft moving in and out.
Momma's got a squeezebox...
Last edited by Rochester; 07-28-2015 at 08:59 PM.
#69
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Drove the car back and forth to LOWES this evening. I have this deep sense of contentment about how this pedal changes things up. Shifting through the lower gears is so very clean now. Never a thought to messing up. Rolling out of a dead stop is accomplished with total control. And launching out of the hole, intending to run hard into 2nd gear, is a fantastic new experience.
6MT Owners... Must. Get. This. Mod.
6MT Owners... Must. Get. This. Mod.
#71
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It was BB who advised that I get one of those handsfree headband LED lights. Picked up an Energizer model at the checkout line in LOWES for under $20. Very bright little thing, with 4 different settings. A must-have for under the dashboard.
#73
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When I was done, and got back into my G, there were a number of immediate comparison impressions.
- My interior is much better (IMO).
- My window belt-line is way lower.
- The G's sport seats are better (IMO).
- Visibility is much better in the G.
- My shifter felt better (IMO).
- My clutch is (was) more difficult.
- My car's handling felt better (honest).
- The FI exhaust sounds better (IMO).
- My car was slower, in every respect.
That last item will always be what it is, unless I go FI someday, which I'm sure I won't. However, straight-line speed isn't the end-all to enjoying a car, and my G is plenty fast. Also, as appealing at the Mustang looks (from a distance), up close it's kind of crude. A modified G Sedan is still a much more attractive car. IMO.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-30-2015 at 10:40 AM.
#74
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I had a lot of the same opinions as you. I wasn't as impressed as I thought I would be. My G was more comfy, luxurious, and in a cheaper package. The one thing that really stood out to me is the clutch engagement. When I'm driving others in my car, I really pay strong attention to my launches so I don't have to see their heads go back and forth. I think I'm a pretty decent manual driver but it can be tricky sometimes. I really hope the RJM can put the clutch engagement in the same ballpark as that Mustang.
#75
Just say no!!!!!
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The mustang gt I test drove recently had the same numb feeling clutch as the G (before spring mod). The camaro ss was even worse. The head bopping has more to do with how quickly you ease off the throttle before shifting than the clutch.
~$60K gets you a nice ZL1 with 580HP
~$60K gets you a nice ZL1 with 580HP