How many of you are using M1 0W40 in your G37? And how many miles on the engine when you started using it?

 

Why not just use 5W-30 as suggested?

 

ears must be burning...I just got back from PepBoys and picked up Mobil 1 5w/30 extended & M1 oil filter

I do my own oil changes and 5w/30 works great! btw, have you guys looked into this for ease of oil drainage:

EZ Oil Drain Valve - Home

I've been using it on my other cars and it's so efficient! Going to install this on the G37x sedan this weekend....

 

this thread may help with info on 0w40

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-concerns.html

 

M1 0W40 with M1- 110 filter at 5000 miles. 5 quart jug for $23.88 and there is a $12 rebate going on for the oil.

 

I've heard of those before but was never really fond of them. I suppose the lever to open the valve would have to be pretty resistant to movement. Have you ever had any issues with it? I feel like it's one accident away from a blown motor.

 

Because I feel 5W30 is way too thin for this engine, especially around summer. Wide open throttle, 1-3 shifts at rev limit but still lacks a punch. Engine sounds trash over 6K rpm. Now better NVH with M1 0W40. Engine is not as rev happy, but butt dyno feels stronger push. That being said, I will switch it back to 5W30 during winter time.

 

I have been using M1 EP 5W30 since new. The engine is very coarse above 6K rpm. PDS shows EP 5W30 is thinner than regular M1 5W30. A few UOA indicated it would sheer down to 20 wt in a couple thousand miles. Those VQs are hard on oil. On the other hand, most euro cars takes thick oil, but only recommend thin grade in the state just for CAFE, not good for the longevity of your engines.

Another reason M1 0W40 Euro formula is better is because it is mostly PAO while other grades are Visom - a highly refined group III. If M1 0W40 is the only oil recommended by Nissan for GTR, there's no reason why it cannot be used in the G37. I had a thousand miles on this oil, so far so good.

 

No issues at all...In fact, my M was modified, lowered and I drove it hard and hadn't seen a drop come out of the EZ drain plug. The lever does not move unless you push it down and over to drain oil otherwise it stays secure - it's built solid. Unless you are doing 'off roading or major 4x4' in a truck/jeep that you're hitting rocks or boulders with your under carriage, then it'll be best to get the available secure clip.

I like using the EZ drain for getting oil samples for analysis.

 

I think it's personal preference...also depending where one lives should be a factor in choosing the right oil for themselves. I've used the recommended oils in all of my cars and have deviated a few times based on time of year and my driving purposes. I recall when I had my 07 MB E350 it called for Mobil 1 0w/40 and it worked well. With my 06 M35, although it called for 5w/30, I'd use Mobil 1 synthetics, eventually to M1 High mileage 5w/30. I did use Rotella T6 as the miles piled up over the years - no oil consumption and the car still ran and pulled strong - engine had 162K miles.

By all means, you can use the M1 0w/40...you mentioned that your engine is course above 6000 rpm, is your car tuned and do you have any modifications?

 

Nope, 100% stock. VQ37VHR known to run coarse at high RPM, idle is not the smoothest either. NVH is no comparison to these silky smooth VQ30DEs. M1 0W40 seems to iron out the roughness quite a bit, and idle is now smoother compares to when M1 EP 5W30 is used. Like I said, engine is not as rev happy, but pulling stronger.

Anyone else who has M1 0W40 Euro formula in their G's do share experiences.

 

I've been using Rotella T6 5w40 on all my cars for many years. Never had a problem related to oil in any of them. That includes daily drivers, track cars, and tow vehicles.

 

STi guys use this. Why would you put that in a VQ? I've used many different oils on the VQ's and IMO redline and motul 300v is the best

And for all you guys who use M1, go listen to your engine. you will have VVEL lifter noises

 

That's because M1 5W30 is too thin, especially EP. That's the point of trying 0W40. Redline is known to be a thick 30 wt, and ester tend to cling onto metal surface.

 

I've got oil change coming up, may try M1 0-40W. Been using regular motor oil so far.

65k miles on car so far.