Low oil pressure light coming on at idle only
#16
It is probably a bad oil pressure sending unit. It is located next to the oil filter.
A quick search found one for the 370z which is probably the same thing we have.
NISSAN FACTORY OEM OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SENDER - 25070-CD00A
A quick search found one for the 370z which is probably the same thing we have.
NISSAN FACTORY OEM OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SENDER - 25070-CD00A
#17
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...-pressure.html
Look at post number 3. It shows a picture of the oil filter housing and he talks about the oil pressure sending unit. He unscrews it and add a T so he can a pressure gauge.
Oil pressure sending units do go bad. It is a cheap part and it could also get clogged from dirt in your oil.
Look at post number 3. It shows a picture of the oil filter housing and he talks about the oil pressure sending unit. He unscrews it and add a T so he can a pressure gauge.
Oil pressure sending units do go bad. It is a cheap part and it could also get clogged from dirt in your oil.
#18
I'm guessing you missed the part where he mentioned replacing that already:
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My 2008 Infiniti G37S has 73k miles (out of warranty) and has its' low oil pressure light coming on at idle (roughly 750rpms) and goes away if you apply any gas. Car runs fine, normal temperatures and all. I replaced the oil sensor yesterday just in case it was going bad as a place to start since I saw the light flicker on briefly over the past couple days. Well, today the light is just straight on at idle.
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My 2008 Infiniti G37S has 73k miles (out of warranty) and has its' low oil pressure light coming on at idle (roughly 750rpms) and goes away if you apply any gas. Car runs fine, normal temperatures and all. I replaced the oil sensor yesterday just in case it was going bad as a place to start since I saw the light flicker on briefly over the past couple days. Well, today the light is just straight on at idle.
...
#19
If one were to go to an independent mechanic, and try to only get the gaskets replaced...what assurance would there be that it would be done properly? Or even if they went to Nissan or Infiniti...any chance of convincing them to only replace the gasket instead of the whole cover?
#20
By this, do you mean replacing the timing covers instead of just the gasket? I've read that they won't just put in the gaskets as there's no torque spec (or something along those lines). Replacing the whole cover seems to be the only way that they can do it and also maintain all the torque specs needed.
If one were to go to an independent mechanic, and try to only get the gaskets replaced...what assurance would there be that it would be done properly? Or even if they went to Nissan or Infiniti...any chance of convincing them to only replace the gasket instead of the whole cover?
If one were to go to an independent mechanic, and try to only get the gaskets replaced...what assurance would there be that it would be done properly? Or even if they went to Nissan or Infiniti...any chance of convincing them to only replace the gasket instead of the whole cover?
Just from reports posted on the forums, it is clear that dealerships have different policies regarding repair practices on these. Some will do discrete gasket repair, others will not. Perhaps when the bill is being covered by corporate under warranty, or if they perceive the out-of-warranty customer to be "good for it", they go ahead and take the full ride approach, inflating the costs and then falling back on the good ol' excuse: "Well, you did want us to do a good job, and one that we can warranty, right?", which is an inarguable, but also self serving practice.
I too have heard the comment that Infiniti techs don't have any torque specs, as well as the one my dealership told me, which was that there is no spec for a thread lock compound. The thing is, this is not rocket science, in the end, it is just a cover plate over a gasket, and thread lock is used all the time in other similar applications. I would certainly expect a decent mechanic should be able to torque the screws to a reasonable certainty and use some industry standard thread lock for similar applications. AS far as certainties with repair work go, and given the quantum leap in complexity of the repair job to further remove and replace all timing gear for accessing the rear timing cover, you could argue that you're vastly more exposed to the potential for a slip up on the repair work for the full ride repair job that for the 'brief' repair. My point is, ANY repair can be screwed up, but it's more likely to occur with a complicated one.
If I were to approach an out of warranty repair (non-DIY), I would call, or better yet walk into as many Nissan dealerships in my area as I could, and speak with the service managers directly. Basically, anything the average service writer tells you doesn't mean squat; if you didn't get it from the service manager, it can always be reneged on. Ask them what their repair practices are for gasket issues and if they are willing to perform the gasket repair without removal of the rear timing cover and replacement of the front cam timing covers. Ultimately, work is work, and one of them will agree to do it. It would probably be even easier at an independent mechanic, but I would still prefer repairs to be done by those who work on Nissan engines routinely.
.02
#21
Took the car to a shop today and they just called. I had a Good Year that is like, right next door to my place, do the sensor swap since they did my last oil change while I was at work one day and I didn't know if there was something they did wrong on that. Yes, I know how to change my oil and would highly prefer doing it myself, but if you only knew my schedule... lol
Anyhow, the Good Year replaced the sensor with a non-OEM sensor. That being said, the new shop I had the car taken to did an oil pressure test and it is showing good pressure even at idle. They are in the process of getting a sensor from the dealership to put on there. I'll keep you all updated that this is, indeed, the fix. Part wont be here until tomorrow morning.
Thanks everyone,
Adam
#23
Thats good news Adam. Did they happen to mention how many good pounds at idle they were seeing? I like to think I am not a complete scoundrel, but I was about to recommend a heavyweight oil change coupled with a trade in in hopes the next owner would go for the extended warranty.
#24
He missed it, but it looks like we both might be right.
Took the car to a shop today and they just called. I had a Good Year that is like, right next door to my place, do the sensor swap since they did my last oil change while I was at work one day and I didn't know if there was something they did wrong on that. Yes, I know how to change my oil and would highly prefer doing it myself, but if you only knew my schedule... lol
Anyhow, the Good Year replaced the sensor with a non-OEM sensor. That being said, the new shop I had the car taken to did an oil pressure test and it is showing good pressure even at idle. They are in the process of getting a sensor from the dealership to put on there. I'll keep you all updated that this is, indeed, the fix. Part wont be here until tomorrow morning.
Thanks everyone,
Adam
Took the car to a shop today and they just called. I had a Good Year that is like, right next door to my place, do the sensor swap since they did my last oil change while I was at work one day and I didn't know if there was something they did wrong on that. Yes, I know how to change my oil and would highly prefer doing it myself, but if you only knew my schedule... lol
Anyhow, the Good Year replaced the sensor with a non-OEM sensor. That being said, the new shop I had the car taken to did an oil pressure test and it is showing good pressure even at idle. They are in the process of getting a sensor from the dealership to put on there. I'll keep you all updated that this is, indeed, the fix. Part wont be here until tomorrow morning.
Thanks everyone,
Adam
One thing you want to be sure of is that whoever measured the OP made sure that oil temps were up to 176* before taking the reading. (Note coolant temps and oil temps are not equal). Too low of an oil temp will yield a measurement that is too high, and too high of an oil temp will yield a reading that it too low. Likewise, engine rpms are critical to getting accurate readings. If OP measures above minimum when the engine is fully warmed up (i.e. thermostat and fans cycling), then you should be golden, because that means you have minimum pressures even with oil that is hotter than the factory spec (a good thing!).
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asbyo (03-11-2015)
#25
I didn't ask him that information, but I will first thing in the morning. Just saw these posts as I had been working and, had I known going into this, I would have asked these intelligent questions Not the super car expert here, I know just a little.
Hahah, hate to admit that it wouldn't be the first time I have traded a troubled car in at a dealership, but I have taken incredibly good care of this car and I would be surprised (appalled and shocked by the quality of my infiniti) if the worst news were the case. We'll find out tomorrow and ill get the pressure #'s for everyone to analyze.
Thanks for the notes. I will make sure I ask them this information specifically.
Appreciate all the help guys. Let's cross our fingers... I was going to wait another 12 months to get my GTR and, as much as I want to rush it, the woman says no until the new house is built and I don't want to have to get something in the meantime!! lol
Thats good news Adam. Did they happen to mention how many good pounds at idle they were seeing? I like to think I am not a complete scoundrel, but I was about to recommend a heavyweight oil change coupled with a trade in in hopes the next owner would go for the extended warranty.
Adam, that sounds like some promising news!
One thing you want to be sure of is that whoever measured the OP made sure that oil temps were up to 176* before taking the reading. (Note coolant temps and oil temps are not equal). Too low of an oil temp will yield a measurement that is too high, and too high of an oil temp will yield a reading that it too low. Likewise, engine rpms are critical to getting accurate readings. If OP measures above minimum when the engine is fully warmed up (i.e. thermostat and fans cycling), then you should be golden, because that means you have minimum pressures even with oil that is hotter than the factory spec (a good thing!).
One thing you want to be sure of is that whoever measured the OP made sure that oil temps were up to 176* before taking the reading. (Note coolant temps and oil temps are not equal). Too low of an oil temp will yield a measurement that is too high, and too high of an oil temp will yield a reading that it too low. Likewise, engine rpms are critical to getting accurate readings. If OP measures above minimum when the engine is fully warmed up (i.e. thermostat and fans cycling), then you should be golden, because that means you have minimum pressures even with oil that is hotter than the factory spec (a good thing!).
Appreciate all the help guys. Let's cross our fingers... I was going to wait another 12 months to get my GTR and, as much as I want to rush it, the woman says no until the new house is built and I don't want to have to get something in the meantime!! lol
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GAWD (03-10-2015)
#27
Does anyone know when the new updated parts were put into place? I have a 2011 M37 and I'm assuming that the gasket problem would be the same for us as well since its the same engine. I cant seem to get away from engine concerns which is why i left those damn Europeans alone. I have two 2011 Infinitis that i bought new and one has me paranoid about the oil jets causing the timing chain to go and now I worried about the gasket letting go and not knowing until its too late....Damn!!!
#28
Picked the car up at the end of the day. The verdict is that the sensor I had the 1st shop put in was a piece of trash from Napa (non-OEM). The one from Infiniti solved the problem and the car is running good. This makes a bit of sense since it wasn't until AFTER I had the sensor replaced with the non-OEM one that it started freaking out a idle and idle only.
The car is showing 30-35psi of oil pressure at idle with it at full operating temps. Is it safe to say I shouldn't worry about it? Guess I am being a bit paranoid at this point, but after taking really good care of my car and having a terrible history with cars doing fluke things (blown headgasket on my 60k mileage 335i twin turbo that was stock, for example), I am a bit paranoid in general hence why I baby my car.
Thank you for all your help. This was just a rare situation (for the better) where I had my original sensor go bad and then the first replacement also be bad, it appears.
The car is showing 30-35psi of oil pressure at idle with it at full operating temps. Is it safe to say I shouldn't worry about it? Guess I am being a bit paranoid at this point, but after taking really good care of my car and having a terrible history with cars doing fluke things (blown headgasket on my 60k mileage 335i twin turbo that was stock, for example), I am a bit paranoid in general hence why I baby my car.
Thank you for all your help. This was just a rare situation (for the better) where I had my original sensor go bad and then the first replacement also be bad, it appears.
#29
Wanted to also quickly ask something to those who have installed an aftermarket Oil Pressure gauge. I kind of want to do this... Was considering putting it on the A-Pillar, too, just because I loved that location in my turbo saleen for 2 gauges and I don't want to modify the dash locations I have seen. I was looking for maybe an Autometer version--anyone have a link or an idea of the best place to buy? Anything I should look out for while doing this? Also any ideas on a second gauge that might help me keep an eye on things? Was thinking of doing a wideband A/F setup but I know those can get pricey. Not boosting so fuel pressure is almost irrelevant.
#30
Great to hear that the gauge was the problem and not the biggie that some of us have had. When you said the pressure had already been replaced, I thought the worst. Glad it was just a bad part or bad work and not the horrors of Nissan's ineptitude in engineering that bit you in the but.
Score one for the good guys. If you track, I'd put an oil temp gauge in the second pod.
Score one for the good guys. If you track, I'd put an oil temp gauge in the second pod.
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asbyo (03-11-2015)