Help Please help guys: will pay
#1
HELP: Engine won't turn over
Hello everyone so it kinda sucks that my first post on here is about a huge problem I'm having with my G37 not starting up. I have a 2010 G37x coupe with 33k miles which long story got a motor swap due to the old motor smoking and I for the life of me can't get it started. I need all the help i can get and as a incentive to help if your suggestion is right i will pay you via paypal !!!. Thats how bad i need the help. Car has been out of use for almost 3 weeks now and its my only source of transportation so i absolutely need it. I will list things that I'm sure of or know about.
Problem:
Car cranks over but won't start.The odd part is if you sit there trying to crank it over every 4 cranks or so it will turn over and start but it stalls immediately after 7-8 seconds. It always feels like it wants to crank over and is right there but just can't or wont.
Tests Performed:
-Did a compression tests and came out with over 200 psi in all 6 cylinders.
-Fuel pump primes when you hit the start switch before turning it on, also took fuel rails off and made sure car was getting fuel and defiantly saw fuel coming out.
-I'm fairly sure its getting spark.
-No blown fuse in fuse boxes by battery checked all the fuses their and no blown fuses.
-checked all plugs after swap and all were plugged and grounds seem nice and tight.
-Have ran it for codes several times and looked in various places and no codes come up whatsoever.
-Previous battery was dead due to swap taking over 1-2 weeks so we swapped it with a new battery and same results.
-Swapped out throttle bodies and intake manifold, same problem.
-Did throttle relearn, still same results.
Any and all suggestions would help greatly.
Problem:
Car cranks over but won't start.The odd part is if you sit there trying to crank it over every 4 cranks or so it will turn over and start but it stalls immediately after 7-8 seconds. It always feels like it wants to crank over and is right there but just can't or wont.
Tests Performed:
-Did a compression tests and came out with over 200 psi in all 6 cylinders.
-Fuel pump primes when you hit the start switch before turning it on, also took fuel rails off and made sure car was getting fuel and defiantly saw fuel coming out.
-I'm fairly sure its getting spark.
-No blown fuse in fuse boxes by battery checked all the fuses their and no blown fuses.
-checked all plugs after swap and all were plugged and grounds seem nice and tight.
-Have ran it for codes several times and looked in various places and no codes come up whatsoever.
-Previous battery was dead due to swap taking over 1-2 weeks so we swapped it with a new battery and same results.
-Swapped out throttle bodies and intake manifold, same problem.
-Did throttle relearn, still same results.
Any and all suggestions would help greatly.
Last edited by smoothslide1; 04-25-2014 at 09:07 AM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Seems like you have tried a number of things. If you are getting fuel and air, then maybe it is spark.
Have you actually tried swapping in new plugs / checking conduction in the coil packs / lubing the plug ends with dielectric grease? You said there is eventual turn over, but it quickly dies. Maybe one or more plugs are defective or damaged?
Perhaps you have something unplugged in the bay? Maybe one of the connections to the coils was damaged?
Good luck man.
Have you actually tried swapping in new plugs / checking conduction in the coil packs / lubing the plug ends with dielectric grease? You said there is eventual turn over, but it quickly dies. Maybe one or more plugs are defective or damaged?
Perhaps you have something unplugged in the bay? Maybe one of the connections to the coils was damaged?
Good luck man.
#4
Administrator
Pull your sparks out, try cranking the car and see if you get a spark on all 6 plugs.
#5
Did all sensors and wiring match up in the swap? From your description, it seems like you may be getting spark in the start position on the switch but not in the run position.
I will send this over to my Infiniti guy who is a service mgr here in Dallas at Sewell. Interested to see what he thinks might be the issue.
I will send this over to my Infiniti guy who is a service mgr here in Dallas at Sewell. Interested to see what he thinks might be the issue.
Last edited by miketyler; 04-26-2014 at 07:11 AM.
#6
OK, from my buddy:
He would be better off towing it to a dealer and let them spend 30 minutes to tell him what is wrong. I have seen guys put flywheels and flexplates back on wrong which is possible and will mistime a motor. Plugging in cam sensors wrong is also possible and will cause weird things to happen.
Is he trying to say every 4 attempts the car will start and run for 7-8 seconds? With the pushbutton start once he hits the button it should crank and continue cranking until it starts. It will crank for at least 10 seconds or until he takes his foot off the brake. Is it an auto or stickshift?
He would be better off towing it to a dealer and let them spend 30 minutes to tell him what is wrong. I have seen guys put flywheels and flexplates back on wrong which is possible and will mistime a motor. Plugging in cam sensors wrong is also possible and will cause weird things to happen.
Is he trying to say every 4 attempts the car will start and run for 7-8 seconds? With the pushbutton start once he hits the button it should crank and continue cranking until it starts. It will crank for at least 10 seconds or until he takes his foot off the brake. Is it an auto or stickshift?
#7
Seems like you have tried a number of things. If you are getting fuel and air, then maybe it is spark.
Have you actually tried swapping in new plugs / checking conduction in the coil packs / lubing the plug ends with dielectric grease? You said there is eventual turn over, but it quickly dies. Maybe one or more plugs are defective or damaged?
Perhaps you have something unplugged in the bay? Maybe one of the connections to the coils was damaged?
Good luck man.
Have you actually tried swapping in new plugs / checking conduction in the coil packs / lubing the plug ends with dielectric grease? You said there is eventual turn over, but it quickly dies. Maybe one or more plugs are defective or damaged?
Perhaps you have something unplugged in the bay? Maybe one of the connections to the coils was damaged?
Good luck man.
Did all sensors and wiring match up in the swap? From your description, it seems like you may be getting spark in the start position on the switch but not in the run position.
I will send this over to my Infiniti guy who is a service mgr here in Dallas at Sewell. Interested to see what he thinks might be the issue.
I will send this over to my Infiniti guy who is a service mgr here in Dallas at Sewell. Interested to see what he thinks might be the issue.
OK, from my buddy:
Thanks it was the cam gears.
He would be better off towing it to a dealer and let them spend 30 minutes to tell him what is wrong. I have seen guys put flywheels and flexplates back on wrong which is possible and will mistime a motor. Plugging in cam sensors wrong is also possible and will cause weird things to happen.
Is he trying to say every 4 attempts the car will start and run for 7-8 seconds? With the pushbutton start once he hits the button it should crank and continue cranking until it starts. It will crank for at least 10 seconds or until he takes his foot off the brake. Is it an auto or stickshift?
Thanks it was the cam gears.
He would be better off towing it to a dealer and let them spend 30 minutes to tell him what is wrong. I have seen guys put flywheels and flexplates back on wrong which is possible and will mistime a motor. Plugging in cam sensors wrong is also possible and will cause weird things to happen.
Is he trying to say every 4 attempts the car will start and run for 7-8 seconds? With the pushbutton start once he hits the button it should crank and continue cranking until it starts. It will crank for at least 10 seconds or until he takes his foot off the brake. Is it an auto or stickshift?
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#9
Registered Member
It seems very strange to me that an Infiniti with only 33k miles would need an engine swap.
Was this a salvage or flooded vehicle?
Who made the diagnosis that the engine needed to be replaced?
Was the previous engine run without oil?
What was the root cause of the smoke?
Why wasn't the original engine just rebuilt?
Good luck
Telcoman
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