Hey Guys, hope someone can shed some light on this.

My CEL came on the other day as I was driving home from the bank (15 min drive). As I tried to speed up to switch lanes, my RPMs wouldn't go above 3000RPM and was rev-limited. I'm assuming that is the "limp-mode" that everyone has been saying on the forum.

Took it to a local shop to get the codes read and I received a P0524 & P3634. I read some threads on here about the P0524 and it seems to come down to replacing several gaskets or a dirty solenoid.

However, I did not and could not find any about the P3634 code. Has anyone seen this code or have any insight on this? My G has been sitting in the garage ever since and am trying to do as much homework as possible before taking it to dealer. Thanks in advance!!

 

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...and-p0524.html

take a look at this. let me ask you this, in first gear, after the car has been warmed up for about 10 minutes, do you have a hesitation in 1st gear? when pressing on the accelerator from a dead stop, does the car jerk because it's not smooth?

 

Thanks for the follow up, but I did read that thread. I've tried reading all of the associated threads to compile some possible solutions to take it to the dealership in hopes to help them. And to help me on the cost too because they are quoting a $145/hr charge to diagnose the potential problem. I don't want them to draw it out and taking like 20 hours to look for a problem just to be able to charge me.

Anyways, I do start up from a dead stop just fine and smooth regardless of the car is warmed up or not. It's just when the RPM's reach to about 2500rpms is when it feels like it won't respond and something is preventing the engine from attaining higher RPMs.

I did the ECU reset over the weekend and replaced my air filters and drove it around normally until last night when the check engine light came on again. Going to get the codes read again to see if it is the same codes as before.

 

I had low oil pressure and random misfires issues from using crappy fram oil filters. I cleaned the TB, upper and lower intake manifold, and used wix oil filter and it seemed to solve the problem. Oil pressure went up after but for me I had no codes just my timing got retarded here and there.

 

Are you completely sure about the code P3634? I am dealing with a similar problem outlined here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...xperience.html. I have codes P0300 and P0524 (random intermittent misfire, low oil pressure).
If you clear the codes, your car will drive normally for a couple hundred miles or so until it throws the codes again. But it won't fix the problem. Mine is currently at a Nissan dealership for them to repair. Haven't gotten their estimate yet but Inifinti's was a little over $3K to replace the rear timing cover because of a leak. I'm having Nissan simply replace the leaking gasket unless the tech (who I trust) has some compelling reason that can't be done.

I'll update my thread when I have new information. Best of luck.

 

I appreciate the info, but wow, $3k is pretty steep. And of course my warranty just expired last year. And I don't suppose this can possibly fall under the umbrella of the powertrain warranty.

Yup, that's what the reader spits out at the local autozone. I'm dropping off at dealer in a couple of days for them to take a look at and to find the exact problem as well as a quote before they do any work. Bad thing is that they charge a pretty penny to just to try to find out the problem. I'll be sure to update too once I get a response.

 

Yes, this is covered by power train warranty that ends at 70K miles if you still have that coverage. The Nissan Master Tech I have looking at mine says he's done 4 or 5 over the last few years in several Nissan vehicles. One in a Maxima with only 10K miles.

The money you pay for diagnostic is credited toward the repair. I don't think you'll have to pay it if it's a warranty item.

 

I had Autozone test my battery when it was starting to go out and they told me my alternator was also bad. I took it to the dealer and told them what Autozone said. They tested it and the alternator was fine, but battery was toast. They did say that the generic testers that they use at Autozone are not accurate for our cars because they're designed for the big 3 (Ford, GM, Chrysler). Gonna go read BB's thread to follow the details.

 

Ok....got an update, I have no idea how this happened and can't really explain it, but here's the chain of events.

After the CEL was on and getting the codes read at Autozone initially, I went ahead and replaced my air filters. (They've needed a replacement for a while and I finally gotten around to doing it). Reset the ECU.

Of course after the reset, the CEL would go away. I figured if the problem persists, the CEL would pop up again. Sure enough, after a couple of days of driving, the CEL came on again and that's when I made my appointment to the dealership. I didn't do anything else and just continued to drive it to work (max speed of 60mph and max RPMs of 2500-2700 due to limp mode).

However, the day before I was to take it to the dealership, I started my car after work and the CEL was off. I am not sure why it happened, but it has been off ever since Wednesday of last week and I have been driving it every day as well.

I'm not too knowledgeable by any means, but I highly doubt that a filter change would cause the CEL to come on.

 

If I were you, I'd still take it in. P0524 is low oil pressure, there's no possible way that an air filter change would affect that. Also, codes can still be present without the light. they are pending codes.

 

I am totally with you on that. I just wanted to make sure the light was on when taking it back so the dealership won't just turn me away and do nothing but waste time.

In any case, I do have an update with some news. The light finally came on again and this time not wanting to risk it turning off again, I just drove it to the dealership and dropped it off instead of making an appointment.

They did their research and their first attempt was to update the firmware on the PCM (powertrain control module is what I think he said it stood for). That was done and I was charge diagnostic fee of $135. Drove it back home and left in garage for 4 days since I was out of town. On the way to work the next day, BAM! CEL came on again.

Drove it there during lunch and dropped it off again. This time they told me they called and talked to an engineer instead of a lead tech...turns out they suspect it is the gasket on the rear timing chain cover. Quote was approximately 22 hours of labor @ $155/hr and parts was roughtly $1200, coming out to shade under $5k. Luckily, I asked, and he told me that all that was covered under the powertrain warranty (wheew..had me sweating).

The service guy called today and confirmed that when they took everything apart, sure enough, they saw that the existing gasket was blown out. It was made from a paperlike material but the new one that was order is of a different composition so it wouldn't repeat itself another 40k miles down the road.

So hopefully this is the final fix that should do it. Sorry for the long post, but want to include all details in case someone else runs into this as well.

 

Exact same issue I had on my wife's car at about 80K miles. Unfortunately since I was out of warranty coverage they refused to take responsibility for the repair of a flawed product or design, so I had to pay out of pocket. What dealership quoted you 22 hours? That's freaking ridiculous. The 18 hours I was charged for is too many. It's great that you didn't have to pay, but I strongly suspect that others will find themselves in the same situation sooner or later so it's good to have as much info here on the forum as possible to help them deal with this BS.

 

It was through Southwest Infiniti, and I agree, 22 hours is outrageous. I even joked if they were going to dismantle the entire car with hand tools just to meet those 22 hours. But since they didn't give me any hassle on the warranty coverage (they even brought it up first), I left it alone.

So I'd suggest that if anyone else is approaching their expiration on their warranty coverage to get this checked. I don't know if it's possible to examine this area easily since it's the back cover plate, but given that this issue seems to have happened to others and the expensive repair costs, it might be worthwhile to take some precautionary measures.

 

I have gotten this one recently also by any chance has anyone found out what is P3634 code mean? Thx in advance