Local dealer is running oil change specials...

24.95 for conventional oil
39.95 for synthetic blend (Dexos oil)
59.95 Full synthetic (Mobil 1)

I must say - I've never given much thought regarding engine oil. I check it often. I change it often (every 3-4k). But the 'Dexos oil' intrigues me.

IF it matters, my car isn't necessarily babied. It sees red line at least once a day. It has about 13k miles on it.

Thoughts? Advantages of each? Change interval extended on 2nd or 3rd option?

TIA

 

Changing at 3-4K miles it doesn't matter what oil you use. There's no point in paying for extra protection that you'll drain out and replace before you use. Get the cheapest.

Use synthetic if you intend to extend oil change intervals.

 

My thought is that the G has a far more efficient acceleration at WOT when shifting way under redline, like 6000 to 6500. Basically, if I hit redline on the launch out of 1st and 2nd, then I screwed up.

Go full synthetic because it's better engine oil, you can double your OCI, and if you DIY it will cost less than dino at the shop. Also, these "specials" are all still using the OEM filter, and there are better filters to be had once you start researching engine oil/filter options.

 

I rarely agree with anyone from Texas but on this I agree with Black Betty.
If you do even one oil change yourself and see what comes out of your oil pan at 3500 to 4000 miles I don't think you'll ever consider a longer change interval. Synthetic oil is a waste of money because the same oil contaminants (moisture, carbon, unburned gasses)that occur in a internal combustion engine occur no matter what type of oil you use.
Changing oil at 3-4k miles is cheap insurance for long life of an engine.

53 oil changes just prior to trade in on my 06 G35 in August 31st 2012




I used whatever was on sale



Telcoman

 

Please stop spreading misinformation. It's really annoying.

OP, do your own research. Here's the big oil thread on the forum:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...il-thread.html

 

FWIW I've been using the bigger M56 oil filters (Bosch Premium) for the past couple years w/ nice UOAs. Can't believe the thimble size filters on our Gs

 

Mobil 1 is $25 for 5 qts at Walmart. Add a Wix filter and you're looking at a $34 dollar DIY oil change.

I change the oil in my cars at 5,000 miles and I use synthetic. If that's a waste of money, so be it. Makes me feel better.

 

True^^ I go 6K OCI and get enough oil & filters for 4 oil changes whenever the deal is too good to pass up.

 

Do you jack up the car, or use drive up jacks? Or are you thin about to get under your car without it , lol.

 

I tend to agree with you - but you must be driving a 6mt.

I actually do this on purpose (car fully warmed up - merging onto a highway from a stop). I was one of the ones that babied the car for through the break-in period. Then as I started to drive it more aggressively, I found it was simply dying after 6k rpm. I reset the ECU - and have not had an issue since. I consider that run to red-line 'training'

 

Hey - I'm in Texas as well - but transplanted from NJ @7 years ago Although Texas is so big, BB is about 5-6 hours away from me...

 

Yeah. Are you saying the 7AT holds revs right to redline if you don't let up?

That's interesting. The two different transmissions, and the shorter rear gears in the 6MT, really do result in two totally different cars.

 

Isn't peak power at 7100 rpm? How does short shifting at 6000 give you the best acceleration? It would seem you seem you aren't into the peak power range and the upshift would drop you well below the torque peak as well.

 

Hitting redline in the 6MT at WOT feels very much like you've passed the point of diminishing return. To your point, however, 7100 is not 7500, and I get that, particularly since I recommended between 6000 and 6500, which is not quite what you repeated. Either way, shifting over 7000K makes shifts super difficult and extremely jarring. Go WOT up to 6500 instead, and it's a much more constant, controlled experience.

Anyway, I didn't say best, I said most efficient. Maybe I could have chosen my words better.

 

You guys are over thinking this. Bounce it off the revlimter, then you know you're getting the most out of it. My understanding is HP builds all the way up to redline, while torque tapers off earlier.