freshgeardude

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

I just bought a used 2010 G37 6mt three weeks ago, it came with 39k miles on it and from the looks at the service history, it was taken well care for previously.

This past friday, I have this weird issue with the clutch. Randomly, the clutch will almost not engage/disengage. if im feeling 90-100% of the travel of the clutch when im pressing it down (when working normally), when this issue arrises im feeling maybe 20% of it on the floor end of the travel. The clutch is still popping back up every time, no problem.

I say this is a random issue, because I can be driving fine and itll happen and if I turn off the engine and back on the issue will go away, sometimes itll come back, sometimes it doesnt.

I did change out my clutch fluid on december 25th, but this issue came up now. When it first happened, i checked my fluid level, everything is fine.
I also replaced the OEM spring on the clutch with the one recommended on the forum, but that was replaced even before my fluids

I was researching on here before I posted this and from the issues ive seen with the CSC and all, it has to do with the gears slipping and/or the clutch pedal not coming back up. none of that is happening to me at all, once the gear is engaged, the engine is fine. I hope i explained the issue clearly enough.

Also, I must say, the closest Infiniti dealership is 1.5 hours away (Nissan is in town) so if I'll be making the drive over there I dont want it to be a waste. The car is still covered under warranty too.

Thank you for your help

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Did your problems start after the clutch fluid refresh? Is your fluid level identical to what it was after you changed the fluid, or did the level drop some?

Are you saying you need to press the pedal almost to the floor before resistance is felt, or is the point where resistance is felt about 1" from the top?

Did you use a quality dot 4 brake fluid?

A CSC failure results in no gear slippage. It result in no clutch action. A worn clutch will slip excessively.

Please rephrase your concern - it is unclear what is happening.

freshgeardude

iTrader: (1)

I answered the questions you had above in bold. I hope this helps clarify

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

That's a strange series of events then. Usually when the CSC fails, all the fluid is pumped out in short order.

If your fluid level hasn't changed at all, then there's either air in the system or the master is failed/failing, or something else. I don't think a failing master is intermittent though.

Your comment about turning off/on making this issue go away is strange. AFAIK there is nothing electrical with the clutch. It's a pure hydraulic/mechanical system as far as actual actuation goes. There are switches at the clutch pedal, but those don't affect actual clutch function.

I'd look into other things too, like a dislocated floor mat. Also check the pedal operation by hand, see if there's any binding or sticking.

Are you positive no air entered the system when you were bleeding it?

May some of the other folks here have some thoughts on this?

freshgeardude

iTrader: (1)

A lot of helpful information here!

I dont believe any air did get in the clutch system when we changed out the fluid, it was a pretty straight forward process and we followed the service manual's guidelines to the tee.

The issue hasnt come back since I drove the car on sunday (it happened when I drove over 300 miles, but since i was rarely touching the clutch it was managable.

Come to think of it, the issue arose on my car before I drove it on the highway (the streets) and at a light, i turned my car off and on, issue was fixed temporarily and then i guess as it was driven on the highway it got progressively worse till i arrived to a gas station when i turned to car off to fuel up, and then it was normal again.

chasemyaccord

iTrader: (2)

I've had this issue occur about seven to ten times during the five years I've owned this car. Normally I only push my clutch down about half way to shift, but when this occurs, I'm practically putting it to the floor. This always occurs at the beginning of my drive as soon as I get into the car. I've never had an instance where the car was fine when I started my drive and the symptoms occur later during my drive. I don't know if weather has anything to do with it, but the last couple times this happened on a really cold morning/night. Usually the clutch will improve a bit as I drive, and the next time I drive the car (typically an hour or two later), it feels normal again. Very weird indeed, and I've never been able to replicate the problem where I could show it to the dealership (although since my warranty ended last year I'm not sure I'd have the dealer handle it anyway).

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

FGD, I wonder if your issue is related to the clutch line over heating. IIRC, the line runs real close to the driver side exhaust/cat, and if the insulation around that portion of the line is damaged or missing, may cause the fluid to heat up/boil. This too would result in low/no clutch pedal. I don't know if this is more common on the coupes than sedans, or if that portion of the driveline is identical on both.

If that is the case, it would explain why the pedal is fine after a cool off period.

freshgeardude

iTrader: (1)

Is there any way I can check this out on my own or is it something I have to bring it in to a dealership to look at?

I say this cause the nearest dealership is 2 hours away for an Infiniti place but Nissan is close by and presumably they can find and fix the issue (although they won't let me warranty it, but if it's simple it can be cheap enough for me to not care)

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I don't have any pics, but just follow the line out from the trans back to the firewall.

DIY: Stainless Steel Clutch Line - Nissan 370Z Forum

4th pic down it shows the stock clutch line. G37 should be same/similar.

freshgeardude

iTrader: (1)

I've been thinking about this. The new fluid I put in, the ATE Type 200 Brake fluid has a higher boiling point than the previous fluid, and with the previous fluid I never had this issue (in the ~2.5 weeks with the car though)

I can pop my head under the car and see whats up but I'm not if this is the issue.

It also doesnt happen every time I drive the car either, which i would believe would if its an insulation being the issue.


I really am appreciating the help of everyone

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I can't imagine it being a fluid issue. You used fluid from a sealed new container, so there should be no moisture/water present.

Reminds me of a clutch problem I had in a past bike. The grab point would change throughout the ride. At first I thought it was temp related, but turned out to be a leaky slave. But not an external leak. Fluid level would not change. Very strange. I unloaded the bike for other reasons before this got fixed. Some others on the bike forum later posted about the same issue and fix being replacement of the slave.