Slave/Master Cylinder Out
#46
The csc was leaking. Replaced with zspeed hd csc and the ss insulated clutch line.Mc looked ok but changed that out as well with a new one. Flushed the lines with Motul rbf brake fluid and now everything works like a champ. Great pedal feel.
Just FYI ,there are 2 different part numbers for the mc. One for the g with a damper at the end (part ends in c) and another for the z without that damper. I got the z one (part number ends in b) linked below.
Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37
Labour rates here are dirt cheap, even if I go in and change the clutch later it will still be only 1/4 what your paying in the states.
Just FYI ,there are 2 different part numbers for the mc. One for the g with a damper at the end (part ends in c) and another for the z without that damper. I got the z one (part number ends in b) linked below.
Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37
Labour rates here are dirt cheap, even if I go in and change the clutch later it will still be only 1/4 what your paying in the states.
#47
Just FYI ,there are 2 different part numbers for the mc. One for the g with a damper at the end (part ends in c) and another for the z without that damper. I got the z one (part number ends in b) linked below.
Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37
Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37
Yeah that damper caused me MUCH problems when I was removing my MC. Because of it, I could not get enough clearance to take it out of the engine bay without undoing the brake master cylinder.
I ended up with the Z MC as well and am happy that it no longer has the damper on there. I noticed a slight bit of rattle without the damper but not enough to bother me or anything.
#48
Glad to see this thread back from the dead.
I had my CSC replaced (OEM again) about 2-3 years ago. At that time, my car had about 35K miles. Clutch pedal wouldnt spring back up and would get stuck halfway.
Fast forward to last week, looks like my CSC is out again and will be upgrading the clutch and replacing the master and CSC as well.
I was quoted $650 for labor at the dealer, $580 at an outside shop.
For parts, I'll be spending around $1300.
I had my CSC replaced (OEM again) about 2-3 years ago. At that time, my car had about 35K miles. Clutch pedal wouldnt spring back up and would get stuck halfway.
Fast forward to last week, looks like my CSC is out again and will be upgrading the clutch and replacing the master and CSC as well.
I was quoted $650 for labor at the dealer, $580 at an outside shop.
For parts, I'll be spending around $1300.
#50
So this past week I've noticed my clutch pedal gets soft and disengagement point lowers on the pedal after long periods of driving without changing gear such as highway. Pumping the clutch pedal ~5ish times brings the pedal back to full firmness, with the disengagement coming back up to the top. Is this the CSC going bad? I'm due for service, so it needs to go in this week - should I just tell them to replace the Master and slave and be done with it? Not happy with having to pay that much labor.
I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.
I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.
#51
So this past week I've noticed my clutch pedal gets soft and disengagement point lowers on the pedal after long periods of driving without changing gear such as highway. Pumping the clutch pedal ~5ish times brings the pedal back to full firmness, with the disengagement coming back up to the top. Is this the CSC going bad? I'm due for service, so it needs to go in this week - should I just tell them to replace the Master and slave and be done with it? Not happy with having to pay that much labor.
I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.
I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.
How does your reservoir look? Are you losing fluid? If you're losing fluid then your CSC may be going out. If not then you may be in luck and it may just be your MC.
I had a similar issue last year where my pedal would get soft but after like 30 pumps, it would get firm again. Replaced the MC and its been good ever since.
Given how expensive a CSC replacement will be (the tranny needs to be dropped), I would first try bleeding the system to see if that will help. If the issue comes back but you're not losing fluid, I would swap the MC next. If the issue still persists then it probably is your CSC.
Good luck!
#52
How does your reservoir look? Are you losing fluid? If you're losing fluid then your CSC may be going out. If not then you may be in luck and it may just be your MC.
I had a similar issue last year where my pedal would get soft but after like 30 pumps, it would get firm again. Replaced the MC and its been good ever since.
Given how expensive a CSC replacement will be (the tranny needs to be dropped), I would first try bleeding the system to see if that will help. If the issue comes back but you're not losing fluid, I would swap the MC next. If the issue still persists then it probably is your CSC.
Good luck!
I had a similar issue last year where my pedal would get soft but after like 30 pumps, it would get firm again. Replaced the MC and its been good ever since.
Given how expensive a CSC replacement will be (the tranny needs to be dropped), I would first try bleeding the system to see if that will help. If the issue comes back but you're not losing fluid, I would swap the MC next. If the issue still persists then it probably is your CSC.
Good luck!
Today after about 10min driving in 6th the pedal went about halfway down before you feel it begin engaging the clutch - again, a few pumps brought it back up to the top where it should be.
I took it to the Infiniti dealer today who said they couldn't reproduce it (not shocked), but suggested replacing the master cylinder to start. That was quoted at $698, which I don't like, but I am having done. Out of curiosity, I asked how much they'd ballpark replacing the slave cylinder, which they know has a leak issue, and they ballpark that at $3,500 - my jaw dropped, because I think I read someone on this thread being quoted $1,200? I'll take it somewhere else if that's the case - that price seems crazy high even with the numerous labor hours. None of this is covered under my warranty :-(
I am supposed to get the car back on Tuesday with the new master cylinder. Praying that's all I need.
#54
Ouch. I certainly would not have paid $700 to get the MC replaced. You could have had that done for probably less than half the price at a normal shop. Here is the approximate breakdown of my recent adventure:
Step One: Bleed clutch fluid/change oil/plug tire (i had a small leak)-
About $175 (Labor and oil mainly)
Step Two: Replace MC/Bleed clutch fluid
About $300 (MC was about $180, Labor around $120)
Step Three: Replace Slave Cylinder/Clutch Disk/Pressure Plate/Resurface Flywheel
About $1360 (Parts were about $800, labor was about $560)
Total was right around $1850ish for EVERYTHING.
So you can see that $3500 is clearly absof***inglutely insane.
Step One: Bleed clutch fluid/change oil/plug tire (i had a small leak)-
About $175 (Labor and oil mainly)
Step Two: Replace MC/Bleed clutch fluid
About $300 (MC was about $180, Labor around $120)
Step Three: Replace Slave Cylinder/Clutch Disk/Pressure Plate/Resurface Flywheel
About $1360 (Parts were about $800, labor was about $560)
Total was right around $1850ish for EVERYTHING.
So you can see that $3500 is clearly absof***inglutely insane.
#55
If it's not too late, I would recommend having them replace the MC with a Nissan MC. The difference is that the Nissan part does not have a damper attached to it and should you ever need to replace it again, it would be sooooo much easier to remove. The damper on the Infiniti MC takes up extra space that makes it a pain to take out if you ever have to replace it again.
The only difference I can tell between the 2 is that there is a slight bit more chatter/vibration with the Nissan one but it doesn't bother me given the ease of removal should I ever need to do it again.
#56
Oh no, if the MC doesn't fix it, they're nuts if they think I'm letting them charge me that absurd amount. I know even the $700 was high; I was expecting about half that.
Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
#57
If it's not too late, I would recommend having them replace the MC with a Nissan MC. The difference is that the Nissan part does not have a damper attached to it and should you ever need to replace it again, it would be sooooo much easier to remove. The damper on the Infiniti MC takes up extra space that makes it a pain to take out if you ever have to replace it again.
The only difference I can tell between the 2 is that there is a slight bit more chatter/vibration with the Nissan one but it doesn't bother me given the ease of removal should I ever need to do it again.
The only difference I can tell between the 2 is that there is a slight bit more chatter/vibration with the Nissan one but it doesn't bother me given the ease of removal should I ever need to do it again.
#58
Oh no, if the MC doesn't fix it, they're nuts if they think I'm letting them charge me that absurd amount. I know even the $700 was high; I was expecting about half that.
Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
i had this work done while they were replacing the CSC under warranty. OP - are you sure you are not covered under the 6 year powertrain warranty?
also, the shop manual strongly recommends replacing both the MC and CSC at the same time. otherwise you can contaminate the other part, and end up replacing them again.
most dealer quotes for CSC replacement are in the $1200-$1500 range.
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