Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
Have Technical Questions or Done Modifications to the G37? Find out the answer in here!

Slave/Master Cylinder Out

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-09-2016 | 11:49 PM
  #46  
Presto's Avatar
Presto
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 73
The csc was leaking. Replaced with zspeed hd csc and the ss insulated clutch line.Mc looked ok but changed that out as well with a new one. Flushed the lines with Motul rbf brake fluid and now everything works like a champ. Great pedal feel.

Just FYI ,there are 2 different part numbers for the mc. One for the g with a damper at the end (part ends in c) and another for the z without that damper. I got the z one (part number ends in b) linked below.

Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37

Labour rates here are dirt cheap, even if I go in and change the clutch later it will still be only 1/4 what your paying in the states.
Old 02-10-2016 | 10:28 AM
  #47  
sLADe781's Avatar
sLADe781
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 343
Likes: 35
Originally Posted by Presto
Just FYI ,there are 2 different part numbers for the mc. One for the g with a damper at the end (part ends in c) and another for the z without that damper. I got the z one (part number ends in b) linked below.

Nissan OEM Clutch Master Cylinder 370Z G37

Yeah that damper caused me MUCH problems when I was removing my MC. Because of it, I could not get enough clearance to take it out of the engine bay without undoing the brake master cylinder.


I ended up with the Z MC as well and am happy that it no longer has the damper on there. I noticed a slight bit of rattle without the damper but not enough to bother me or anything.
Old 02-13-2016 | 04:04 PM
  #48  
myk1013's Avatar
myk1013
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 19
From: Northside, Isle of Guam
Glad to see this thread back from the dead.

I had my CSC replaced (OEM again) about 2-3 years ago. At that time, my car had about 35K miles. Clutch pedal wouldnt spring back up and would get stuck halfway.

Fast forward to last week, looks like my CSC is out again and will be upgrading the clutch and replacing the master and CSC as well.

I was quoted $650 for labor at the dealer, $580 at an outside shop.

For parts, I'll be spending around $1300.
Old 02-15-2016 | 05:56 AM
  #49  
Presto's Avatar
Presto
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 73
I cringe when i see the labor rates you pay. I paid about $150 or so including a generous tip. To make you all feel better shipping parts from the states I usually end up paying 10x what you pay
Old 02-19-2016 | 12:00 AM
  #50  
acousticapertur's Avatar
acousticapertur
Premier Member
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Washington, DC
So this past week I've noticed my clutch pedal gets soft and disengagement point lowers on the pedal after long periods of driving without changing gear such as highway. Pumping the clutch pedal ~5ish times brings the pedal back to full firmness, with the disengagement coming back up to the top. Is this the CSC going bad? I'm due for service, so it needs to go in this week - should I just tell them to replace the Master and slave and be done with it? Not happy with having to pay that much labor.

I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.
Old 02-19-2016 | 10:57 AM
  #51  
sLADe781's Avatar
sLADe781
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 343
Likes: 35
Originally Posted by acousticapertur
So this past week I've noticed my clutch pedal gets soft and disengagement point lowers on the pedal after long periods of driving without changing gear such as highway. Pumping the clutch pedal ~5ish times brings the pedal back to full firmness, with the disengagement coming back up to the top. Is this the CSC going bad? I'm due for service, so it needs to go in this week - should I just tell them to replace the Master and slave and be done with it? Not happy with having to pay that much labor.

I'm at 41K miles (I just got this car a year ago, a 2010 with only 32K miles!). I'm hoping its just air in the lines, but I would have noticed that long before. The clutch itself does not slip, gears change smoothly, no other issues noted.

How does your reservoir look? Are you losing fluid? If you're losing fluid then your CSC may be going out. If not then you may be in luck and it may just be your MC.


I had a similar issue last year where my pedal would get soft but after like 30 pumps, it would get firm again. Replaced the MC and its been good ever since.


Given how expensive a CSC replacement will be (the tranny needs to be dropped), I would first try bleeding the system to see if that will help. If the issue comes back but you're not losing fluid, I would swap the MC next. If the issue still persists then it probably is your CSC.


Good luck!
Old 02-19-2016 | 05:38 PM
  #52  
acousticapertur's Avatar
acousticapertur
Premier Member
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Washington, DC
Originally Posted by sLADe781
How does your reservoir look? Are you losing fluid? If you're losing fluid then your CSC may be going out. If not then you may be in luck and it may just be your MC.


I had a similar issue last year where my pedal would get soft but after like 30 pumps, it would get firm again. Replaced the MC and its been good ever since.


Given how expensive a CSC replacement will be (the tranny needs to be dropped), I would first try bleeding the system to see if that will help. If the issue comes back but you're not losing fluid, I would swap the MC next. If the issue still persists then it probably is your CSC.


Good luck!
Not quite sure if I'm losing fluid or not, because I don't recall the exact level they filled it to when I had them flush it a few months ago during regular service. I want to say they filled it to about ¼ of the way above the Min line, which is where the reservoir has been yesterday and today... but I don't remember fore 100% sure.

Today after about 10min driving in 6th the pedal went about halfway down before you feel it begin engaging the clutch - again, a few pumps brought it back up to the top where it should be.

I took it to the Infiniti dealer today who said they couldn't reproduce it (not shocked), but suggested replacing the master cylinder to start. That was quoted at $698, which I don't like, but I am having done. Out of curiosity, I asked how much they'd ballpark replacing the slave cylinder, which they know has a leak issue, and they ballpark that at $3,500 - my jaw dropped, because I think I read someone on this thread being quoted $1,200? I'll take it somewhere else if that's the case - that price seems crazy high even with the numerous labor hours. None of this is covered under my warranty :-(

I am supposed to get the car back on Tuesday with the new master cylinder. Praying that's all I need.
Old 02-19-2016 | 05:50 PM
  #53  
JSolo's Avatar
JSolo
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
Infiniti dealer will rape you on this job. Even the MC replacement is not a $700 job. Find a competent independent shop to do the work. They can get oem parts the same as the dealer.
Old 02-19-2016 | 06:13 PM
  #54  
Tommy Gunz PSIU's Avatar
Tommy Gunz PSIU
Premier Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 218
Likes: 12
Ouch. I certainly would not have paid $700 to get the MC replaced. You could have had that done for probably less than half the price at a normal shop. Here is the approximate breakdown of my recent adventure:

Step One: Bleed clutch fluid/change oil/plug tire (i had a small leak)-
About $175 (Labor and oil mainly)
Step Two: Replace MC/Bleed clutch fluid
About $300 (MC was about $180, Labor around $120)
Step Three: Replace Slave Cylinder/Clutch Disk/Pressure Plate/Resurface Flywheel
About $1360 (Parts were about $800, labor was about $560)

Total was right around $1850ish for EVERYTHING.

So you can see that $3500 is clearly absof***inglutely insane.
Old 02-19-2016 | 06:38 PM
  #55  
sLADe781's Avatar
sLADe781
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 343
Likes: 35
Originally Posted by acousticapertur
I took it to the Infiniti dealer today who said they couldn't reproduce it (not shocked), but suggested replacing the master cylinder to start. That was quoted at $698, which I don't like, but I am having done.

If it's not too late, I would recommend having them replace the MC with a Nissan MC. The difference is that the Nissan part does not have a damper attached to it and should you ever need to replace it again, it would be sooooo much easier to remove. The damper on the Infiniti MC takes up extra space that makes it a pain to take out if you ever have to replace it again.


The only difference I can tell between the 2 is that there is a slight bit more chatter/vibration with the Nissan one but it doesn't bother me given the ease of removal should I ever need to do it again.
Old 02-19-2016 | 08:36 PM
  #56  
acousticapertur's Avatar
acousticapertur
Premier Member
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Washington, DC
Oh no, if the MC doesn't fix it, they're nuts if they think I'm letting them charge me that absurd amount. I know even the $700 was high; I was expecting about half that.

Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
Old 02-21-2016 | 02:50 PM
  #57  
Presto's Avatar
Presto
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 73
Originally Posted by sLADe781
If it's not too late, I would recommend having them replace the MC with a Nissan MC. The difference is that the Nissan part does not have a damper attached to it and should you ever need to replace it again, it would be sooooo much easier to remove. The damper on the Infiniti MC takes up extra space that makes it a pain to take out if you ever have to replace it again.


The only difference I can tell between the 2 is that there is a slight bit more chatter/vibration with the Nissan one but it doesn't bother me given the ease of removal should I ever need to do it again.
Everyone driving an Infiniti for Gods sake get the Nissan mc with no damper. Will save you lot of labor hours.
Old 02-23-2016 | 01:12 PM
  #58  
canucklehead's Avatar
canucklehead
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 142
From: West Coast Canada
Originally Posted by acousticapertur
Oh no, if the MC doesn't fix it, they're nuts if they think I'm letting them charge me that absurd amount. I know even the $700 was high; I was expecting about half that.

Keep in mind, I am right outside of Washington, DC, and everything here is ungodly expensive. Your pricing may vary depending on where you are located.
$700 is even more than i paid for my MC swap...and i'm in Canada. i paid $130 for the MC part, and then 2 hrs labour at the dealer. came to about $400 CAD tax in.

i had this work done while they were replacing the CSC under warranty. OP - are you sure you are not covered under the 6 year powertrain warranty?

also, the shop manual strongly recommends replacing both the MC and CSC at the same time. otherwise you can contaminate the other part, and end up replacing them again.

most dealer quotes for CSC replacement are in the $1200-$1500 range.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eljoker
Future Models
19
05-30-2022 12:48 PM
ZSpeedPerformance
Drivetrain
12
09-09-2016 12:20 PM
stevo4756
Private Classifieds
4
10-09-2015 02:54 AM
SuicidalG37SGuy
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
8
09-10-2015 07:01 AM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:38 PM.