Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
Have Technical Questions or Done Modifications to the G37? Find out the answer in here!

Z1 Motorsport Driveshaft B4 / After Dyno G35

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-18-2012, 06:17 PM
  #91  
Modme
Registered Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Modme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 0
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
lol, im pretty sure the supercharger contributed more to the easier take off than the drive shaft.
Old 05-18-2012, 08:59 PM
  #92  
37hevn
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
37hevn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
i just realized it is only for the manual...anyone know when the auto is coming out? and no offense to the car being boosted but for most people we want to see a before and after NA and as soon as they have an auto driveshaft ill get it and have that posted
Old 05-18-2012, 09:34 PM
  #93  
Staples
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Staples's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 1,659
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Modme
lol, im pretty sure the supercharger contributed more to the easier take off than the drive shaft.
Lies!

I meant from a stand still and feathering the clutch for a normal take off. Kind of like the feeling with an aftermarket lightened flywheel.
Old 05-21-2012, 01:10 AM
  #94  
self
Registered User
 
self's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just bought this. Not sure how long shipping will take, but if I'm lucky I will have this installed within 2 weeks. I can't PROMISE a before/after dyno, but I am going to give a shout to Hill's Garage and a maybe another shop a bit more local (Northern VA), and see what their prices are like.

STAPLES: Looks like you are semi-close to me, and have been to Hill's. Any idea what their baseline dyno prices are like, sans tuning? I would love to be able to give the community an accurate before/after, but seeing as how i just dropped close to $500 for the DS, might not be in the budget
Old 05-23-2012, 12:34 PM
  #95  
G-Rex
Registered User
 
G-Rex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Black Betty
I can't comment on the strength of the aluminum shaft vs the steel one and the vibration increase from using a longer 1 pc. shaft, keep the info coming guys who know more about it than I do. I'm learning a lot.

The increase in power at the wheels is from less rotational mass that has to be spun by the engine's power. How much power does it take to spin a straw between your thumb and index finger? Now what about a rod of steel the same size, how much power would it take? Same principle. If every part of the drive train were half the weight it is now, engine output would be the exact same but how much of that power output would make it to the wheels would increase dramatically. Reducing the difference in the dyno number between engine HP and wheel HP for every pound of rotating mass saved.
Been traveling and just now catching up on this thread. Having read BB's reply (and others) it seems like we may be confusing power with inertia. I believe the various posters are exactly correct when they compare the lighter driveshaft with a lighter flywheel or any other lightened drivetrain components; basically there is less mass to accelerate, therefore everything accelerates more quickly.

Although this should correctly translate to better performance, that's not the same thing as more power. Apart from a potential reduction in friction losses, this change should (theoretically) simply move the HP/Torque curve to the left - equating to equal power achieved at the wheels sooner along the RPM scale.

This is how I would expect to see the benefit appear in a dyno test. Just my 0.02....
Old 05-23-2012, 02:11 PM
  #96  
self
Registered User
 
self's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by G-Rex
Been traveling and just now catching up on this thread. Having read BB's reply (and others) it seems like we may be confusing power with inertia. I believe the various posters are exactly correct when they compare the lighter driveshaft with a lighter flywheel or any other lightened drivetrain components; basically there is less mass to accelerate, therefore everything accelerates more quickly.

Although this should correctly translate to better performance, that's not the same thing as more power. Apart from a potential reduction in friction losses, this change should (theoretically) simply move the HP/Torque curve to the left - equating to equal power achieved at the wheels sooner along the RPM scale.

This is how I would expect to see the benefit appear in a dyno test. Just my 0.02....
Well if someone would respond to my thread, just below this one, letting me know what's involved with installing the damn thing, we could all know for sure loll
Old 05-23-2012, 06:41 PM
  #97  
harbin9er
Registered Member
 
harbin9er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 370
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Hi, want to chime in my opinions on this.

The dyno charts certainly look very interesting - impressive gains

but, from some quick calculations I did on this thread https://www.myg37.com/forums/modding...-analysis.html, I concluded that the reduced inertia from the lighter drive shaft won't have much effect on straight line acceleration.

My model assumes the car sits on the ground, and accelerates the entire mass of the car in a straight line. This has a different dynamic behavior to a car sitting stationary on the dyno and turning a big drum. Assuming the dyno chart is legit, I have a few guesses as to why there is such a noticeable improvement:
  1. Car sitting on dyno may have similar behavior as a car spinning its wheels in the air while sitting on jacks. One of my earlier models assumed the latter case and showed that even a measly lightened pulley upgrade can have a measurable effect in improving how quickly the wheel gets spun up (Basically this confirmed the observations from the ppl who noticed engine revved up more quickly in neutral when they replaced pulley). However, don't be fooled - a lighter pulley has very little effect when the car is on the ground accelerating in a line.

    So,
    • ASSUMING that a car on the dyno is similar to a car spinning wheels in the air, but with a load applied;
    • AND, that many (less sophisticated) dynos get their numbers by measuring the angular acceleration of the drum;
    • THEN, it is conceivable that the drive shaft can post impressive gains.
  2. perhaps the gains are due to the inherent inaccuracies of dyno, as someone else pointed out. +/- 10whp or whatever. Perhaps there were more favorable conditions like air temperature, humidity, etc

I'd be very surprised (but curious to get a scientific explanation) if the drive shaft gave noticeable improvements to actual driving in straight line (perhaps some 1/4 mile times).

I personally would not go for this upgrade, unless I'm convinced otherwise. However, like I said before, reducing the mass or inertia from any part of your car will improve acceleration - the only question is is it cost-effective to do so.

Last edited by harbin9er; 05-24-2012 at 05:27 AM. Reason: added "...noticed engine revved up more quickly in neutral"
Old 05-23-2012, 07:00 PM
  #98  
SharpByCoop
Registered User
 
SharpByCoop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Norwalk, CT
Posts: 554
Received 56 Likes on 48 Posts
Originally Posted by G-Rex
...this change should (theoretically) simply move the HP/Torque curve to the left - equating to equal power achieved at the wheels sooner along the RPM scale..
Originally Posted by harbin9er
...I'd be very surprised (but curious to get a scientific explanation) if the drive shaft gave noticeable improvements to actual driving in straight line (perhaps some 1/4 mile times).

I personally would not go for this upgrade, unless I'm convinced otherwise. However, like I said before, reducing the mass or inertia from any part of your car will improve acceleration - the only question is is it cost-effective to do so.
Good observations. Well played.

self: Show the Hill's Garage guys this thread. Maybe they would 'sponsor' the dyno time in the interest of science and promotion.

Coop
Old 05-23-2012, 09:23 PM
  #99  
Staples
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Staples's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 1,659
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by harbin9er
Hi, want to chime in my opinions on this.

The dyno charts certainly look very interesting - impressive gains

but, from some quick calculations I did on this thread https://www.myg37.com/forums/modding...-analysis.html, I concluded that the reduced inertia from the lighter drive shaft won't have much effect on straight line acceleration.

My model assumes the car sits on the ground, and accelerates the entire mass of the car in a straight line. This has a different dynamic behavior to a car sitting stationary on the dyno and turning a big drum. Assuming the dyno chart is legit, I have a few guesses as to why there is such a noticeable improvement:
  1. Car sitting on dyno may have similar behavior as a car spinning its wheels in the air while sitting on jacks. One of my earlier models assumed the latter case and showed that even a measly lightened pulley upgrade can have a measurable effect in improving how quickly the wheel gets spun up (Basically this confirmed the observations from the ppl who noticed engine revved up more quickly when they replaced pulley). However, don't be fooled - a lighter pulley has very little effect when the car is on the ground accelerating in a line.

    So,
    • ASSUMING that a car on the dyno is similar to a car spinning wheels in the air, but with a load applied;
    • AND, that many (less sophisticated) dynos get their numbers by measuring the angular acceleration of the drum;
    • THEN, it is conceivable that the drive shaft can post impressive gains.
  2. perhaps the gains are due to the inherent inaccuracies of dyno, as someone else pointed out. +/- 10whp or whatever. Perhaps there were more favorable conditions like air temperature, humidity, etc

I'd be very surprised (but curious to get a scientific explanation) if the drive shaft gave noticeable improvements to actual driving in straight line (perhaps some 1/4 mile times).

I personally would not go for this upgrade, unless I'm convinced otherwise. However, like I said before, reducing the mass or inertia from any part of your car will improve acceleration - the only question is is it cost-effective to do so.
You're over-thinking this way too much. As I stated before, this isn't a "new" mod in the automotive industry. Why would our cars be any different in terms of freeing up power, to lets say, a Mustang or a Camaro or whatever else you want to compare it to? This isn't FOR EVERYONE, it's for whoever wants to lessen the strain on the drive-train and get more power to the ground. If you don't believe this part makes power, that's fine and up to you. You are absolutely entitled to your own opinion.


$430 isn't much when you compare it to a lot of other mods out there. This is also one of the easiest things you could install on your car. If you can install an exhaust, you can do this.

Name:  555258_10150885970989509_160539469508_9470486_1528368027_n.jpg
Views: 767
Size:  25.5 KB
Old 05-23-2012, 11:59 PM
  #100  
self
Registered User
 
self's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I will contact Hill's...Not sure if I am going to be able to get a before/after, though. I am planning to install the driveshaft this weekend when I am out at my house and have access to my lift. So we'll see what's what.

Packaging
Z1 Motorsport Driveshaft B4 / After Dyno G35-packaging.jpg

DS
Z1 Motorsport Driveshaft B4 / After Dyno G35-driveshaft.jpg

Close-Up
Z1 Motorsport Driveshaft B4 / After Dyno G35-driveshaft-close-up.jpg
Old 05-24-2012, 12:05 AM
  #101  
Modme
Registered Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Modme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 0
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
The shipping "box" looks inadequate. I'd be afraid of shipping damages.

How are these driveshafts balanced? I dont see any welded weights.
Old 05-24-2012, 12:23 AM
  #102  
self
Registered User
 
self's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Modme
The shipping "box" looks inadequate. I'd be afraid of shipping damages.

How are these driveshafts balanced? I dont see any welded weights.
I may not have done a good job of showing the packaging. I do not think there was any chance of damages. The shaft had wrappings all around it, within the tube, along with tons of bubble wrap and spacing paper inside the tube. The tube itself is very thick. About a 1/4". When I opened the tube, the shaft was secured with ties and the wrappings.

The packaging would be the least of my concerns. It was secure and it made it here just fine. I would be much more worried about the weight savings not having a noticeable effect

But I'm okay with being a guinea pig!
Old 05-24-2012, 01:02 AM
  #103  
Legz
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Legz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 718
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Make sure to do a before/after dyno!
Old 05-24-2012, 08:49 AM
  #104  
ANMVQ
Registered Member
iTrader: (13)
 
ANMVQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Framingham Ma,
Posts: 6,098
Received 394 Likes on 343 Posts
in for results, An AGIAN SOMEONE make this for the X cars.. LOL
Old 05-28-2012, 09:37 AM
  #105  
G37Sam
Administrator
 
G37Sam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Doha, Qatar
Posts: 12,184
Received 243 Likes on 193 Posts
Out of curiousity, is this the same Z1 Auto that is spoken about here: Z1 Auto in NY - Page 8 - MY350Z.COM Forums


Quick Reply: Z1 Motorsport Driveshaft B4 / After Dyno G35



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:32 AM.