ANMVQ

iTrader: (13)

In for some more info on strength being Fi this would be something I would be interested in.

Linky $428 is nice but only otion is manual?

http://www.z1motorsports.com/g37_370...oducts_id=5711

ANMVQ

iTrader: (13)

ok Called them , Very cool guys, Said the FI guys would have NO issues with this , The Company that makes them is one of the best in the country, But they have no Auto ones left, He said 2 weeks..

awais

iTrader: (4)

Wow. Impressive torque gains in the midrange. Can you tell a difference in city driving?

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Enlighten us Sam. What are your thoughts? Are you aware of the specs on the OEM shaft and this one as far as diameter and wall thickness of the tubing?

Also, has anyone who has this installed commented on increase in NVH?

Emillion45

Would this work on a X?

Kidcane

iTrader: (7)

These are plenty strong. They are stronger than a CF driveshaft and that is what a GTR comes with.

Staples

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't worry about the durability with this. It's made to OEM specs and will hold up like a stock driveshaft, if not, it would be stronger. The reason our cars can't use a 1 piece is because it's made of steel (for certain safety reasons). A 1 piece steel driveshaft because of its weight it has a tendency to flex under load and would cause more issues then not. Aluminum and Carbon fiber because it's so light weight doesn't flex under longer lengths.

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

All of this affirmation of it's strength is fantastic. However, does anyone have any engineering info to back it up or just opinions? What's the OD and wall thickness of the OEM steel shaft and of the aftermarket aluminum one? Anyone have that? And I'm sure it's been posted somewhere before, but since this is a new thread, does anyone know the weight of each?

Staples

iTrader: (9)

I know the weight differences. OEM: 31.5lbs - Z1: 16.50lbs.

The aluminum has a diameter of 3.5", I'm not sure on the stock. I can measure it today since I know someone who has an extra one lying around.

The major reason behind the weight savings though is because you're alleviating 1 of 2 U-Joints. That's where most of the weight comes from, along with the fact it has more rotational mass behind it. The reason they use Aluminum is because it doesn't flex at long lengths and is a cheaper alternative to Carbon Fiber.

SharpByCoop

There were 16 runs logged between the 'before and after'.

I'm certainly interested, too, but I'm curious about the forensics.

Coop

SwissCheeseHead

iTrader: (6)

What's the DIY rating on this? Difficult? Easy? I am also interested in "freeing" up power. That's always a good thing.

Legz

iTrader: (1)

Hmm the torque does look a little bit excessive

rAiN

iTrader: (5)

just like anyother parts, unbolt, and bolt back in

ECain18

iTrader: (15)

Very easy install. Took More time to take the heat shields and exhaust off than anything. 45 mins total.

Black betty: there isnt any more vibration or harshness, only a slightly louder hum when decelerating in 2nd gear is the only time i ever hear it

SwissCheeseHead

iTrader: (6)

Nice. I didn't know if there were any seals or anything that needed to be replaced. U-joints and differentials make me a little nervous...